RedbusRover Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Hi, This is my first post on this forum having just taken long overdue ownership of my first Land Rover, an '88 110 CSW with tax and an MOT but in need of some TLC. It's since been read the last rights by a specialist but I'm determined to bring her back to life so expect to be on here regularly! I need to replace all the suspension so am after advice on what's good and bad. I don't think I need any lift as it'll be family transport with the odd off road excursions so standard height I guess, but what is an improvement over standard fit. Is Britpart good or just popular? Regards, Shaun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Congrats on your purchase I would seriously just fit new standard stuff all around, possibly upgrade the shocks though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Personally I would avoid Britpart if at all possible. From your intended use, I would go for standard suspension - Genuine if you can, especially for bushes and the like. Genuine Springs and shocks are really not that badly priced either. enjoy your new truck, and post some pictures up as you progress Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam001 Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Well done on getting the best land rover (I have exactly the same ) Mine too about a year ago was very poorly and tired but I have got it to what I consider a respectable landy Suspension wise it depends on what you want to do. My advise is other than springs I would stay away from Britpart shocks, possibly look down the old man emu or something similar of reputable brand. There are however many choices of spring rates so you need to bear that in mind, if you plan on doing alot of load carrying or towing I would suggest fitting a very heavy rear spring I have +2 springs front and back fronts being progressive and the rear medium duty but find my rears are not stiff enough so changing them to 420lb/in. Fronts however choose something that suits the standard vehicle (unless you plan on fitting a winch). There are plenty of kits about so you shouldn't have too much trouble. Oh and for photo spam... (why not eh ) When I started... Now Well worth the effort...Inspiration Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 It's since been read the last rights by a specialist but I'm determined to bring her back to life so expect to be on here regularly! I need to replace all the suspension so am after advice on what's good and bad. Shaun Can you give any more information on the prognosis? What specifically has lead to it being condemned? Is the chassis sound? Socks, springs, bushes, ball joints worn? Being more specific would help pinpoint where to spend your money. :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8bertha Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Congratulations on your purchase!! I'm still running the stock Camel setup on my 110... it uses HD rear 90 springs in the front and the 130 setup on the back with the little helper springs. A friend of mine replaced his springs with genuine ones and although slightly more expensive, you know what you are getting! I've been running Old Man Emu shocks in the Camel for the best part of 5 years now and can't fault them. Having been suitably abused on some pretty horrible roads they are still good and firm. By comparison I drove a friends Camel that used Pro-comp shocks and the truck felt all spongey and squidgey. Bushes wise... use genuine if you are fitting rubber. Again they are more expensive but at least you'll only have to do them every few years instead of months. If you don't have a press to hand then Polybushes could be a worth-while investment. After getting the old bushes out, just lube up the Poly's with a bit of oil and squidge them in. Despite their slogan, Britpart are not well known for supplying quality parts. Have a search around the forum for Britpart related propaganda. could save you some dosh in the long run. Looking forward to hearing more about your 110 Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedbusRover Posted October 22, 2010 Author Share Posted October 22, 2010 Thanks all! , apologies for the lengthy reply but let's just get it out there from the start! I must point out, I read up on all the places to check for rot etc, but with rose tinted glasses(VERY!) viewed her as a project with full support of my partner (she just wants me to stay off the bike!). So I checked all those places, I found all the rot .... and, er , I still bought it!? So .... 4 bad doors(a couple floppy)but didn't realise how costly and difficult it might be to find replacements. I'm planning on learning to weld so am looking at buying the framing material and maybe re-skinning if I can't clean up what's there. The driver's door sill (the inner bit with the rolled over edge) is absent but a piece of angle iron takes it's place so I need to find out what part this is .. is it part of upturned channel that runs from arch to arch and is bolted at each end? The front top corners of bulhead have been filled one side and partially the other (I've got new pieces already) plus I'll replace A-pillars. The dumb irons at the front are holed where the upper box section joins the lower pieces but I'm told these can be plated over. The rest of the chassis is ok except for the obvious one ... rear crossmember, which I'll change (with the extensions) to be sure I'm on to sound metal. 3 wheel bearing apparently need changing , -not sure if there's any adjusment in them? And a few tyres are cracked and bulging in places. These are 15" rims with 31x10.5 which is non standard but is a viable fit apparently. Oh, and the track rod appears to be rubbing on the bracket that covers it as it passes behind the front diff. Guess it's been bent at some stage? SO here she is.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam001 Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Looks good so far The door piece you are referring to is a U channel piece which is bolted in on mine from arch to arch as one solid piece and does a lot of supporting work of the door pillars, I have had to keep mine frequently painted to kerb the rust. The rest seems ok, wheel bearings you can adjust if they are not damaged or excessively worn. remove the drive flanges (front) or the full halfshafts (rear) to expose the hub nuts, knock back the tabs on the locking washer, remove the first nut (52mm socket or box spanner), remove the locking washer then nip up the second hub nut and re-assemble.... Oh wait there is almost definately a guide in the archive Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 The driver's door sill (the inner bit with the rolled over edge) is absent but a piece of angle iron takes it's place so I need to find out what part this is .. is it part of upturned channel that runs from arch to arch and is bolted at each end? replaced my '89 110's side sills recently, we used 50 x 30 x 3mm rectangular box section, reused the front bracket from the original sill channels, drilled 2 holes in the inner face to bolt to existing bracket at the rear end & a 32mm hole in the lower face at front end for access to the outer bolt/nut, 'B' post spot welds where cut through & securely welded to box section when all bolted in place, holes were drilled & tapped M6 for the floor plates & seatbelt lower brackets, suitable plastic end caps were obtained off ebay & with suitable sealant, close the lower face & rear end from weather conditions, still have the sill panels to refit below the doors. the complete part is called the body sideframe & includes the central door pillare & angled section/upright at the rear side door, see item 1 on page 795 not a easy or cheap part to find, in excess of £350 for each side, so repair is a easier/cheaper option. a new almost unobtainium one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedbusRover Posted October 22, 2010 Author Share Posted October 22, 2010 Excellent, looks like the savings on that will pay for my welder alone. Now that's another piece of advice I need but I think i've seen some posts on that subject already. I'm still spinning at the moment trying to decide where to start but I think a throrough degrease, then a clean and protect of the good chassis areas is a good way to start. In the meantime I'll be gathering as much info and bits and bobs as I can so I can get on with things whenever I have the odd moment. Will certainly be adding box section to my shopping list. Thanks again for your swift and positive support! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 happy to help, your proposed list looks good, as does the 110 despite it's impending work. have a good look through our tech archive, loads of good info on how to do various jobs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Looks nice. I love 110s I'm in the process of beginning to undertake some similar work myself. Mine needs repairs to the chassis (rear cross-member, front dumbirons etc.), as well as the sills and the doors. Also needs a new bulkhead (have a nice 2006 Td5 one waiting to go on). My plan is to take the body off completely and work from there up, and galvanise bits like the chassis/bulkhead/sills as I go. Good luck, start a thread in the members' vehicle forum and keep us up to date won't you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 stay with oe springs if you can. unless of course you require a lift. hd 90 rear or hd disco 1 rears work well. red/red rears or even nicer, td5 progressive rears ome stuff is the best 'non specialist stuff on the market, but it's pricey. the non hd terrafirma stuff is good and better priced avoid polybush like the plague. oe bushes are okay but the best bushes are superpro, just superb and you get that excellent warrantee it took me over a year to find four doors for my 110csw - take your time and shop around none of the work you describe is that bad - never listen to the so called experts unless you know they are experts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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