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Bigger Bump Stops


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right then off to buy some bits 2morrow.

shock turrets -2"

lower rear shock mounts

and cranked rear trailing arms

wide yoke props

ive already got.

new front radius arms

longer brake lines

polybushes

gonna have a good day fitting all this but should i also get bigger bumps stops.....are they nessesary?

suppose with whats already been spent they wont make much difference on the wallet :huh:

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i have some of this set up on mine

my setup is a mix from scrap iron, richard harvey and Paddocks.

i have -2" paddock h/d front shock mounts with scorpion cones and hd spring retention bar on the front

then richard harvey -2" top shock mounts, paddock dislocating cones, and h/d spring retention bars on the rear

Llama 4x4 stainless +2" brake pipes

plus have just purchased paddocks extended bump stops - i reckon these are worth the investment (£6 ea or similar) to stop the shock bottoming out - i am running ES9000 +2" shocks

i think the scorpion cones are better quality than the paddock ones ditto their top rear shock mounts are well made, very similar to the richard harvey ones that were advertised in the LRO mag a while back. paddock top shock mounts and rear cones do the job but i reckon coul dbe better.

i am running std trailing arms and std yokes.

any suggestions on who to get bent trailing arms from, and is the issue of using castor corrected front radius arms and the wobble problem now resolved?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi all

When I fitted front tubular turrets I could only go to - 1 inch with the OME dampers & std bump stops. This allowed for 1 1/2 inch of bump stop compression before the damper bottomed out. If this happens then the damper is finished as I was told that there is a valve in there that gets damaged when this happens and is not repairable on OME but is on Koni & some Monroe.

Fitting longer bump stops will reduce articulation, but with BIG tyres then it may stop them fouling the eyebrows.

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Hi all

When I fitted front tubular turrets I could only go to - 1 inch with the OME dampers & std bump stops. This allowed for 1 1/2 inch of bump stop compression before the damper bottomed out. If this happens then the damper is finished as I was told that there is a valve in there that gets damaged when this happens and is not repairable on OME but is on Koni & some Monroe.

Fitting longer bump stops will reduce articulation, but with BIG tyres then it may stop them fouling the eyebrows.

'longer bump stops will reduce articulation'

how? agreed the axle comes up and hits the bump stop but does that then not move the vehcile up/change the angle of the vehiclle?

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Hi Jst

You want plenty of travel before you hit the stops, & soft bouncy springs. As you said as soon as you hit the stop then all further movement would be put into tilting the body which is not want and is the limit of your axles articulation. To keep the body level you need plenty of unrestricted travel both in compression & droop.

But it's like everything, various setups work for differnt people so try everything & see what feels good for you. One thing worth looking into is three link front suspension as this allows greater front axle articulation and also air suspension !

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i ve just added extended bump stops to the rear of mine after trashing a +2" shock with top drop mounts.

well i think that is the reasons its gone although another side of me says it coul dbe due to the fact it has no boot or cover on the plunger(?) and that has become very pitted. the one on the other side is (was) fine. they were Procomps ES9000s. now its got some td5 90s on it until i can get hold of some more es9000s.

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Chnaces of me explaining this are slim.... :rolleyes:

Fitting -2 Inch turrets, and bent arms will give increased articulation over stad, but and as you have worked out although the shock will allow drop further, the axle end dropping will eventually be held in place by a combination of bushes, A Frame, and or shocker.

On upward movement the shock compresses, but, the mount has been lowered, as such if you do not limit the upwards movement of the shock it over compresses, in effect crushing itself. :o

This is therefore stopped by Extended bumps stops., and sort of job done. :D

It will give more movement then normal, BUT increasing the bump stop takes away a possiblity of extra movement... :(

This is where I'll loose most with a C%ap explaination... :lol:

ok,

One the the other reasons for extending the bump stop is the fact the tyre meets the wheel boxes.

So, consider INCREASING the hieght of the Shock mount, ......and fitting Far long shockers,......

The DROP is the same, it will in effect bottom out prob now bushes and A Frame, it won't be the shock as you have more movement available (if you could get to it - and I have plans as to how), but for the mo follow me..... :blink:

Now, wheel goes up, and up and up, the bump stop is higher, and the shock can carry on going up without bottoming on itself, it will prob hit the wheel box (definately in my case as I have no lift) so you will have to chop the wheel box about... :(

I am planning this, 36 inch shocks with 16 inches of movement, the Wheelbox I have calcualted will need 8 inch lift on it.... :huh:

No doubt I'll be told this is wrong, but get some paper out and play,

I have also replaicated this on my 90 with springs and shocks removed, and jacked about measured played with bump stope etc and think I'm right - I may find my cunning plans may not work, we will see. :huh:

The other thing is often the bump stop are also added with lift, all lift really does is provide clearance for bigger tyres, mess up caster, increase height (branches etc), and mess up Centre Of Gravity, but its a whole lot easier...and probably cheaper than what I have planned ! :D

HTH,

pass the asprins

Nige :ph34r:

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Exactly the right approach Nige and I'd be very interrested to see how it goes.

8" raise in the tub boxes is a lot and will take some filling. You're not planning 42" tyres as well are you :P

You say you've flexed the axle sans springs and shocks, did the tyre bind on the inner face of the tub box or spring mount?

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Hi there

If you want real extreme then what about a pair of the Volvo 303 portal axles that have diff lockers as std.

Instant ground clearance and don't need to raise suspension more than 1 inch if at all so no issues with castor angles or propshafts.

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Hi there

If you want real extreme then what about a pair of the Volvo 303 portal axles that have diff lockers as std.

Instant ground clearance and don't need to raise suspension more than 1 inch if at all so no issues with castor angles or propshafts.

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Roy,a mate o'mine here converted (I think he was the 1st in this European area) his 90

last year,and it's not exactly a straight fit,he had custom propshafts made other than lot of further tuning.

And it's not much road friendly.

In fact he bought a Disco and he's looking for a trailer now...

:blink:

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Hi Michelle

I suppose raising your C of G up to the levels those axles give must make fast road handling like driving a blancmange !

But offroad it must be really capable so perhaps using the axles & air suspension would sort it as then on road you keep it low.

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