LR NUT Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 Hi A few questions 1. What sore of mileage expected from the rear drum pads? 2. Is any maintenace required to them? 3. Is it worth buying Land Rovers own front pads as Ive heard so much about aftermarket pads not giving enough miles before they need replaced? thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richy B Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 Not sure about mileage but they have a common (ish) problem of delaminating, Ie braking material coming away from the metal base plate, ( if that makes sense ? ) this can cause the rear brakes to jam/drag, Aloso on ours where the metal handbrake lever bit inside the drum operates this was pretty much seized causing as good as no handbrake and dragginf that wheel, I managed to replaced both sides ok Abit one at a time incase i forgot where the bits went, If i acn do it with limited skills it should be doable for most, Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorsetfreelander Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 1. What sore of mileage expected from the rear drum pads? 2. Is any maintenace required to them? 3. Is it worth buying Land Rovers own front pads as Ive heard so much about aftermarket pads not giving enough miles before they need replaced? I have found that rear brakes hardly ever wear out but it's worth looking at them to make sure they don't seize up. They are easy to get to, no wheel bearings to remove etc. Front pads wear out more quickly on autos but I have still got around 30K miles from a set and they are really easy to replace and I always use Landrover parts from Landrover dealers who advertise on ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arabianjules Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 just remember on prts `you get what you pay for`..so i agree, buy landy parts from landy dealers, and yes check ebay first cos we all know how expensive landy parts can be! stripped mine down today...as they were sticking when Hbrake is applied, everything looked ok, cleaned them and lubed all the springs etc.... AJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonT Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 One tip which may be of interest to those with alloy wheels fitted - if you use "Green Stuff" front pads, you will find that there is far less dust generated, and therefore the wheels stay cleaner for longer - and there is no loss of braking effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Bean Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 I have used "Green Stuff" in the past and one day i was driving "enthusiastically" and by the end of the afternoon the pads were cracked I have not used them in the land rover but i personally did not rate them well at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR NUT Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 thanks for the help chaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 I use Greenstuff on the 109 and they seem fine, they're certainly cheaper than the genuine Wilwood ones and seem to last OK, mud will kill them before mileage does. There's degrees of non-genuine, usually what turns up as OEM is Mintex which are absolutely fine, well-known and decent quality. If the box says "britpart" then you're in a lottery, they may be OK or they may be made of cheese. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonT Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 I first used Greenstuff on an MG-F, all round, and that was certainly driven enthusiastically (!!) with no problems at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary1968 Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Interesting thread, the hand brake on mine sticks on if left over night, think I will be investing in a set of brake shoes for it... the cables look to be fairly new. I took the drums of a few weeks back and cleaned inside, sprayed a little loob onto the linkages but it made little difference. I always thought 'Britpart' were decent stuff too, bought a fair amount of that gear for the Discos I owned previously. Cheers, Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonT Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Gary, you really need to strip the whole assembly, clean up, lube, and re-assemble - including the "automatic" adjusters - ANYTHING which can or should move needs to be able to do so freely. I must admit, though, that even after doing so, my rear brakes also tend to "stick" a little if left on overnight - so, as my drive slopes towards the house, I roll the car up to a couple of bricks, put it in reverse, and just apply the handbrake very lightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickcc Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Just fitted new drums and shoes to my 2005 TD4 Auto (handbrake sticking) the only fault I found was the n/s/r adjuster was not working and the shoe retaining pins were nearly corroded through, handbrake now seems OK. When I bought the FL a few weeks ago the dealer had fitted new discs and pads, last week the front brakes started squealing when braking. When I stripped them down I found that the pads were from unipart and the plastic backing had worn through causing vibration between the pad and caliper piston. I cleaned off all the plastic backing, applied golden grease to the back and side of the pads and the noise has stopped. Seems to me that using plastic as a anti vibration device is not really a good idea so would not recommend unipart pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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