dantd5 Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 I'd ask this simply because I do not want to crack the knob on the gear stick. I have used locktite to hold the alu knobs I bought for some years back, Do I have to dismantle the gear and transfare sticks on the defender 99 my td5 110? I am about to change the clutch. Help it will be starting very soon!! Thanks a lot.. nb I have read a lot about this topic... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 No. I dont think so. IIRC i unbolted the whole thing from the top of the gearbox casing to that i could slide the box back and drop it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 Thanks a lot. I guessed so. But needed an expert to encourage me on.I will be doing this task and nervy!!! But it will be done.REb78 how many days did you use for yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 Just thought though, you wont be able to remove the rubber gaitor with the knobs in place, but you should be able to lift it out of the way to gain enough access. I think i did it in a weekend by myself with the help of an engine crane. That was fairly leisurly though, but you should be able to get it all out one day and back in the other fairly easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 aluminium knobs will be fine undoing them and re-locktiting. . Assuming you can get them undone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 What I did was remove the transfer case shift housing top section and replaced two of the bellhousing (or 3) studs with long bolts which allowed me to slide the whole assembly back enough to swap the clutch. This was after some less successful attempts and will be how I do it in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 Thanks a lot. I am on the process. Many pics will follow.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted August 23, 2011 Author Share Posted August 23, 2011 Trying to seperate the bellhouse to no avail. All 8 bolts have been loosened but can´t shake if off any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Have you removed the 3 starter motor bolts as well? There's a stud and nut that you can't see between the starter and the side of the engine block. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landynick Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Try slackening the 3 starter motor bolts before removing first to see if there is then movement in the bell housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted August 25, 2011 Author Share Posted August 25, 2011 Thanks for that. I did just that this evening and found another bolt This means there were 9 bolts..... Jeeeez 13mm bolts.. Starter is out. Tomorrow we would give it a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted August 25, 2011 Author Share Posted August 25, 2011 More pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted August 27, 2011 Author Share Posted August 27, 2011 We cracked it finally. Thanks for all the contributions I got from you folks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Are you doing the whole Duel mass replacement or are you going to convert it to a solid flywheel? Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 Are you doing the whole Duel mass replacement or are you going to convert it to a solid flywheel? Les. Les, I am doing the whole DM replacement ..... Something I should know?... No conversion... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 I've only ever done the solid flywheel conversion. Replacing the DMF is recommended, but dammned expensive. If you replace just the clutch, then if the DMF fails, then the whole lot has to be replaced. Can't see the point in DMF's myself - just more expense and something else to fail. I've not had reports of any noticeable difference with the feel of the clutch with a solid flywheel. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road Toad Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 I did a conversion on our works 130 last year , used overpriced Rakeway parts. It's HORRIBLE!! Absolutely fine at speed but at idle vibrates badly, the whole truck shakes. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 Hi Les Upon your advice, I notified a friend and we have decided to replace both clutch plate and DMF... when a guru talks, I listen to it.. Thanks .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 Now I have finished replacing the flywheel and clutch. Both have been well torqued and sentralised.... with a sentralizing tool. . I just hope it is well done to avoid any vibrations. New clutch bearing, clutch fork looked very solid så nothing to worry about. Defender clutch forks (TD%s) are much much more solid than the other models i guess. Now the bell house, the gear case and the tranny all lie balanced on the platforn underneath the clutch house. My question is . How difficult is it to wriggle this to place. I am mobilizing 4 men to help me out at this. Are we a-man- too many? I have 4 jacks to use... All advice will be taken in to consiceration. Thanks a lot.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 Pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 my only contribution is to make sure you firmly attach the push rod from clutch cylinder to fork with a new plastic clip and/or cable tie to avoid future dramas when changing clutch slave/master. a 27mm socket and breaker bar can help to turn crank slightly if your splines have shifted, or lock the difflock and twist the prop output. That and run a small amount of silicon around the face of the bellhousing before you pinch it up to waterproof it a bit. You said fork looks ok, is the clutch release bearing and shoes behind the fork smooth and serviceable, they are only a few quid Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 Pete A question for you. Is it the plastic bit that holds the slave cylinder in place or the useless U shaped plastic that conects to the clutch bearing. I contemplated using a metal bit to hold it. Thanks otherwise for your advice concerning silicon to water tight the bell house..And the advice to get the splines in place.. lovely.. never thought of that. concerning the bearing, I have replaced to a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 It took me 3 hours to get the bellhousing back onto the engine by myself. I had an engine crane and a trolley jack. Extremely frustrating. In the end it helped to lie down with the vehicle, head to the back, hold the end of the gearbox like a gunner and manipulate it in all directions whilst pushing. It then slotted in within a few minutes of work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 I am så glad this is doable at least. Nearly lost all hope. I will get a crane and get off the downpipe which is blacking the way. One silly thing I did was not to put the gear on first. Thanks for the advice. I snapped LOW RANGE DETECT SWITCH last night.. Now 48quid will be off the drain... This will definitely be the last project. Back aches loads of swearing and a rewarding cold beer last night.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Aiignment is everything, so concentrate on that. The gearbox and engine will be angled downwards, so as you push the gearbox forward, the gap will alter, so keep an eye on it as the two come together. You may need to rotate the input shaft in order for the splines to go through the clutch plate centre, and to do this you either need to get someone to trun the engine on the crank, or put it in gear and turn one of the drive flanges on the transfer box. Once the input shaft is through the clutch centre, then the box should slide to within 10-15mm of the engine. At this point you can use a couple of bolts to pull the two together. You may find that 4-blokes will be too many cooks Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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