SeriesEwan Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 My doors dont shut correctly, When the vehicle is static it is possible to achieve a full tight shut by ramming the door with my hip/arse but as soon as I move off the door the door catch pings out & sits on the 2nd part of the striker ( arrowed ) Also i am noticing a sag in the doors as if they are lower than the tub, Winter is a coming & i wouldn't mind getting a water tight seal whats the best way of adjusting the fit? I have tried playing with the shimming / position of the striker to no avail is there any adjustment to be had in the hinges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 Assuming the tub-bulkhead alignment is OK you can loosen the hinges and move the door. But in all honesty I would junk those door latches and fit defender style anti-burst locks & strikers. As well as being safer they pull the door in against the seal. At the same time fit new doorseals, either buy the proper stuff or use some from an Austin/Rover Metro. The best way to achieve a watertight seal on Landrover doors is to pray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 you can adjust or rebuild the hinges, there is a nice thread on here. well worth doing. search greasable slop free hinges i think.. also if you cant get the door to fit right after jiggling the hinges (like mine) you can grind out the bottom of the second stage hole and this will make the door shut, i advise to grease them too, shut much better but i am after some anti burst locks too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 Loosen hinge screws & lift door to correct height, re-tighten. Greasing / WD40ing the striker plate & lock mechanism makes a big difference too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondjeremy Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 Striker is hitting the bottom of the second latch 'box' - so adjust to lift the back of the door and it should shut properly. You can get new ball and shaft for S2/2a doors but for S3 you'll have to buy new hinges if they're worn (or make a new pin - its an odd size with splines to hold it in place) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeriesEwan Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 Good to hear there is a bit of adjustment to be had in the hinge mounts I will let you all know how i get on my plan is to get inventive with a jack & a lump of wood wile loosening the mounting fixings Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 you wont need a jack trust me, its not that hard - you're more likely to bend the doors with a jacks. you 'just' need to start with loosing the hinge bolts in the bulkhead and lifting with the one hand while tightening with the other. I've recently had a right game with the 109's doors, which ulitmately turned out to be britpart doors with the tubes welded in the wrong place! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 you wont need a jack trust me, its not that hard - you're more likely to bend the doors with a jacks. you 'just' need to start with loosing the hinge bolts in the bulkhead and lifting with the one hand while tightening with the other. I've recently had a right game with the 109's doors, which ulitmately turned out to be britpart doors with the tubes welded in the wrong place! this is why my drivers door never fitted properly the top of the door top was level, the bottom of the door bottom was wonkey as anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeriesEwan Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 undoing the door bolts is easier said than done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 I would suggest a long term battle plan. Start soaking the door bolts with penetrating oil (plusgas gets a lot of praise) a week beforehand. get some in between the hinge and the pillar. Keep applying the oil each day. Then apply shocking force to the fixing, either a hammer to the bolt head or a hammer to a screwdriver in the screw head. Then re-apply. You should then be able to undo it. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeriesEwan Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 Already on it those are some threads that i REALLY don't want to shear off / bugger up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neonovice Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 I have anti-burst door handles on my SIII. They are way better than the standard ones but you need to get them asjusted spot on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 New nuts, bolts, and captive nuts for the bulkhead are pennies, buy a complete new set & a tub of copperslip and then you can hack the old ones off with the electric spanner. No point re-fitting a 20-year old rusty bolt for the sake of 50p. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeriesEwan Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 ok this may sound like a silly question then, how do i access the captive nuts on the side of the bulkhead? i was under the impression that the bulkhead edges were tapped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/03/series-iii-parts-book/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snailracer Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Having had my doors on and off quite a lot recently i thought I'd share... The captive thread is on a little plate the clamps around part of the inside of the bulkhead. They are a bit fiddly but I found the best way to get them on was to use an old screwdriver throught the hole to push and get the clamp started. Once its got a grip then you can take the screwdriver out and push them on. I find the best way to hang the doors is to fit the hinge to the door tightly and then put in the bulkhead bolts. Once you've got the door secured to the bulkhead you can adjust it for the gap. I find if you've got the bolts done up quite tight you can move the door about but its tight enought to stop it moving once you're happy. The best tool i've found for doing up the bolts is an impact driver used as a screwdriver. Adjust the striker plate last so that the door latches properly etc Also worth checking that your door tops are on straight. I spent ages trying to work out why I couldnt get my passenger door to fit corectly only to realise that the door top was leaning out. One day I'll buy a new one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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