ricky tango Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Hi guys struggling a bit here with an on board air project on dads strange rover. Previously rigged three systems up on mine and friends trucks and purchased a custom aluminium manifold for each truck, this time round tho I've had no answer from the member so ive bought a 32mm x 32mm x 250mm Ali bar and an appropriate Set of drill bits to put a 11.8mm hole through the length of it and then several holes down one side as the ports the dilemma is how do I drill it it's entire length accurately without a lathe ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 gigglepin do a nice system with special swivel joints to make solenoid connections easier or RS do them as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Send it to me and my lathe? Cost you a pint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricky tango Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 The manifold needs to be 1/4bsp the giggle is 1/8, Vulcan I will send you a pm in a day or two I only need the hole I'm quite looking forward to making the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 ok mate send me a pm when ever you like.. Sent me a quick sketch with the bit of metal.. I will be able to drill and tap holes much better than you due to being able to get the holes square.. Tis upto you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 You could try these http://store.camozzi.co.uk/Catalogue/Connection/Fittings-Accessories/Aluminium-Distribution-Manifold-Blocks save a lot of messing about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 These guys are great on all the fittings, and delivery http://www.beefittings.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricky tango Posted December 31, 2011 Author Share Posted December 31, 2011 Thanks guys I need it to have a total of 12 ports and so it's kind of a bespoke unit , but a very simple design Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 It won't be too critical if the hole isn't dead true Just drill on a pillar drill, or even with a pistol drill. I assume you have a long series drill, or plan to drill in from each end and meet in the middle. It won't matter if each end doesn't line up perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 O.K try thesehttp://www.tvhuk-catalogue.co.uk/browse_product.aspx?mode=level1&level1=70000&level2=268848 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricky tango Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 i was more worried about going off centre and ending up scimming close to the sides, my only available method at home is a hand held drill and a vice , drilling through from either side , i have seen methods of placing the item in the chuck on a pillar drill and then lowering it into a vice work quite well but although in the future i will add a lathe to the workshop as it will make all kinds of useful tools and replace broken parts its not something i have the cash or the space for right now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 You could do it carefully with a normal drill. Remember you don't need to use the full size hole the whole way through. Could do something like a 6mm if you wish to give you a bit of space for going crooked. But take the offer of someone doing it on a lathe, so much easier My little colchester student was one of the best things bought G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jai_landrover Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 I'm still building my OBA system, so far I have the AC pump fitted to the engine and first test results seem very promising. Directly from the pump no tank just 5 meters of hose 1/2inch dia the tyre valve and hose was the limiting factor. We inflated my 900 tyre to 28 psi in less than a minute more like 30 mseconds from flat. Very impressed. I have a RRC air suspension tank and got some high temp hose to go from the pump to my manifold. I will post a pic in a sec need to di it out from the tol box. I couldn't find a decent freeflowing manifold so I used a 3/4 inch radiator manifold and 3/4 hosetails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 My little colchester student was one of the best things bought G Little haha I have a Student in my garage, it's a bit of a squeeze, @Ricky - not sure where you are in west London, but if you don't manage to find someone to stick the hole through the middle, I'd be happy to put your manifold up in my lathe. I'm only 5 mins from Gatwick. Just a thought - why do you need to have 1/4" ports? If you use 1/8" you could pitch the ports much closer together and save some material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jai_landrover Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 (edited) Here is the pics of the manifold. I wanted very little restriction so went 3/4 BSP. Check Valve, Pressure switch, Saftey blow off valve and some outlets. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Jai Edited January 3, 2012 by jai_landrover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricky tango Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 Little haha I have a Student in my garage, it's a bit of a squeeze, @Ricky - not sure where you are in west London, but if you don't manage to find someone to stick the hole through the middle, I'd be happy to put your manifold up in my lathe. I'm only 5 mins from Gatwick. Just a thought - why do you need to have 1/4" ports? If you use 1/8" you could pitch the ports much closer together and save some material. i was thinking the same thing about the student, they are not the smallest all though i would compromise on space as the reviews say there not bad units. i.e the port sizes , the manifold is the direst route from compressor to tank and it is also an inflation and light tool on board air system. ive seen the restriction a coily lead had on a mates work shop compressor to know that i want 1/4 ports , to get them all used and plumbed in it still looks a very compact unit with the 1/4 ports . still waiting on the bar to arrive before i start pm'ing people but i will send them out once it is here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Jai - just out of interest where did you get the pressure switch from ? On my air system i've got a push fit manifold that i bought from RS. http://uk.rs-online....ush-in/0867459/ Not cheap (like anything from RS!!!) but nice n simple. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jai_landrover Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I got it from Ebay quite cheaply 90psi on 120 cut off. Maybe a mistake buying fro ebay! But Matt Savage 4x4 does them not too silly on price. All the adaptors cost the most but I'm not complaining I wanted it big and free flowing screfix for the manifold and outlet pipes I believe it was made for Central Heating Radiators. And the threas on 4 manifold outlets is weird luckily they do them ase well. My only real concern is the heat build up. May have to make a cooling ring rad to cool the air before it goes into the manifold cos it can get seriously hot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I made mine by just linking loads of half inch Tee pieces as it's what I had on the shelf. Advantage is its cheap and endlessly expandable and can be altered at any time, downside is its a lot of joints with potential to leak! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 My switch would normally be found on top of a garage compressor. Shut off pressures and hysteresis can be set to suit your needs. Only a tenner on eblag. And my manifold, a wee bit messy but totally functional and cheap. Only bits I bought were the check valve (Screwfix), pressure relief valve (RS), push in fittings (RS), and 10mm nylon pipe (eblag) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricky tango Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 put my head down inbetween work and building a shop for a friend and got this n knocked up on a pillar drill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 That looks just the job. Look forward to seeing it fully furnished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomreade93 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 My switch would normally be found on top of a garage compressor. Shut off pressures and hysteresis can be set to suit your needs. Only a tenner on eblag. switch.JPG And my manifold, a wee bit messy but totally functional and cheap. Only bits I bought were the check valve (Screwfix), pressure relief valve (RS), push in fittings (RS), and 10mm nylon pipe (eblag) manifold.JPG How did you get the 240v valve working on 12v? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 The air pressure operates the switch. The switch doesn't care, within reason, what voltage is going through it, 12V or 240V. It's only a set of contacts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 The air pressure operates the switch. The switch doesn't care, within reason, what voltage is going through it, 12V or 240V. It's only a set of contacts Well it does in that the current rating at 12Vdc will not be the same (lower) than the rated value shown at 240Vac. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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