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steering wheels and boss's


sammyb

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The mud stuff web site will tell you exactly what boss is required.

And they also do very very nice Moto-Lita wheels, this is what I have fitted to mine, as was one of the few wheels that does not have "fat" sections at the 10 & 2 o'clock positions, which I hate as I find that in a Defender you don't hold the wheel those places. The wheel is also super quality leather, and is soft, and fat.

http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/moto_lita_steering_wheel.shtml

Andy

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I've bought this one:

PSC-Steering-Wheel-200x200.jpg

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/PSC-Black-Aluminum-Steering-Wheel-p-17136.html

With this one:

TG-130326-K-A-200.jpg

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Trail-Gear-Weld-On-Steering-Wheel-Disconnect-p-29175.html

Not fitted yet though..

A detacheable steering wheel makes steeling the vehicle harder... expecially when both diffs are locked and the wheels turned.... makes it REALLY hard to move it !

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Does that steering boss add much depth (make wheel closer to driver)?

Yes but as you have to cut the spline bit off and make a sleeve to press onto the steering shaft, you can adjust the wheel position to your requirements. Then weld it together, the hard bit is getting it out of the truck to machine it and weld it up.

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Does that steering boss add much depth (make wheel closer to driver)?

Andy

Yes but as you have to cut the spline bit off and make a sleeve to press onto the steering shaft, you can adjust the wheel position to your requirements. Then weld it together, the hard bit is getting it out of the truck to machine it and weld it up.

Or did you mean mine?

If so. I have no clue. It's not fitted yet.

No need to cut anything off. The splined section has a smaller OD than the rest of the shaft. This hex bit goes straight over the splines to the thicker bit behind where you weld it to it.

Here's a view from the side.

IMG_8645.jpg

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Haven't any picture anymore I used to do a them for Westfield owners I use a machined joint tube for a few reasons, you can adjust the length, it is a machined press fit [doesn't need welding but always do] it keeps it all in line and square when welded and you have two filet welds that ends up a stronger job also it can be pinned in position I didn't bother when used on a Westfield, as the front axle corner weights are around 300kgs as apposed to a landrover which must be around 1000kgs and requires power steering to turn the wheels I have pinned my joint in the Defender

I will post some pictures of the fitted wheel etc in a short while. [off to find camera]

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OK, reading up on thread here. I was planning on putting a detachable steering wheel on the 110 project. It's at the point where the wiring loom in the dash is about to go in. Do all the removable ones require me to take out the steering column, how secure are they without the weld? Can I do the weld in situ as theres nothing but the lower dash and electrics in the cab at present? Novice with removable steering wheels here - but I do need a nice small one as I am 6'3 and fat to boot :P

My 90 has a non removable (well 5 alan keys) 13" wheel and I have 2" off my gut atm.

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