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Split Charge and setups - help/advice required


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First off, I now have all my fuse box etc in but I was wondering whether it is worth splitting the batteries up so that I have one for crank/winches and the other for the fuse box (glowplugs, starter solenoid, radio, heater, eberspacher, lights etc, etc, etc). Or should I just leave the second battery for the winch?

Looking at putting a split charge into my 110 project thanks to a kind donation (thanks pioneer) of a couple of SBS 30 batteries to accompany my Odessey PC1500.

I was looking at the different bits and pieces needed to charge these, and was thinking about a Sterling charging unit like the one in the technical archive posted by pioneer ( http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=74884)

Will this work with an X-Charge relay OK? or is something going to go horribly wrong?

Also I have miles of cable left, does the relay unit on its own come with a method for mounting?

Alternatively should I just link them all together in parallel and have done with it? Could I damage the SBS 30 batteries with a winch/crank doing this?

Sorry for all the questions and muddledness of this but want to get the best solution.

Cheers,

James

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now even more confused.... but...

Now thinking I need to put in:

X-Charge relay for charging (does this need diodes to stop the power flowing through the relay to either battery?)

Sterling alternator regulator connected prior to the x-charge (will this still work correctly?)

First battery:

Isolator on crank/winch battery

Second isolator on the winch connection

Second battery:

Straight connection to fuse boxes

Some push button function that will put the batteries in parallel should I need to for cranking.

Does this sound overkill/stupid/etc?...

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I thought about this but I have a 200tdi and the mounting bracket is £120 from gywn lewis and it involves tapping the timing chest - seems quite involved. I had thought about this route but cost for mounting plate is crazy... Does anyone else do one that isn't so expensive?

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Always keep the main-battery for the vehicle, and a secondary battery for 'accessories' like fridges, winches, lights, inverters.

Main-battery is always the first in line for receiving alternator-output. Only when it's fully charged should you consider allowing the control to divert charge to the accessory-battery. Don't allow 'accessories' to suck juice from the main battery once the accessory battery is getting drained.

Follow this approach and you'll always be able to start your engine. That's the #1 consideration.

Remember - the spiffiest winch or coldest refrigerator is entirely useless if you've got a flat main battery and no way to start the engine!

--Tanuki.

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disco or defender the engine blocks are the same, however your correct in thinking this is a disco engine.

The furthermost left pulley is the extra/second alternator. The other two left pulleys (AC compressor and idler pulley) are standard items.

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Timing chest and associated belt/accessory routing is different on a Disco 200Tdi. Not that it isn't possible on a Defender lump, it's just different bits are needed, and they're not as common as A/C etc. wasn't fitted to many Defenders at that stage!

My twin-battery setup is joined by an X-Charge. I simply tagged the second battery onto the first via the split-charge relay, this way the main vehicle electrics are unaffected and run off battery 1. The winch and auxillary fusebox (through which all my additions are wired) both run off battery 2.

At the moment the split-charge relay is triggered by the alternator output, so the batteries are connected when the system is being charged, but disconnected when the engine is off. This allows me to use the electrical ancillaries such as compressor, fridge, CB etc. without worrying about flattening the main battery.

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