Josh NZ Posted July 25, 2012 Author Share Posted July 25, 2012 Righto. Opened up the carb again tonight, but left the bottom half on the engine (excellent idea, saved me spilling petrol on myself again) and whadya know, the o-ring sealing the emulsion block wasn't even there!! I was so surprised. So I pinched one off my old carb, fitted it and resealed the carb. Then cleaned the spark plugs, filled the tank full or fresh petrol and cleaned the vernier adjustment as it was gummed up with muck. Turned the ignition on and hit the button, she fired up, and settled into a lovely burbly idle which was far steadier albeit a tiny bit lumpy. Twisted the dizzy to get the timing better and im happy to say that the position is much closer the middle point of the motion. Still a bit of black smoke but I'm definitely making progress now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 ) and whadya know, the o-ring sealing the emulsion block wasn't even there!! I was so surprised. My suggestion is to maybe consider getting someone who knows these carbs well to take a look at it, if an 'o' ring is missing then the chances are that it could have other issues, especially if someone without much knowledge has been playing with it. It's worth getting right as these sorts of issues can sometimes have a dramatic impact on MPG (at £1.35/litre) and a rich mixture can cause bore washing and negatively effect engine longevity. Julian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted July 25, 2012 Author Share Posted July 25, 2012 The carb is nearly brand new though, I have only opened it twice to reset the float and fit the o ring. If there were such beings as land rover specialists in my area I would be there in a flash but unfortunately they are a dying breed. £1.35 a litre!!! Holy heck! Petrol here is $2.00 a litre but thats beside the point. The engines 43 years old now so I'm not surprised its a little finnicky. Plus its had a bloody hard life so if it keeps throwing Wobblies i have my eyes on a LWB that has a Holden 161" I6 which I would be interested in using as its a very common conversion here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 Good news, it may smoke slightly black on foot to the floor acceleration, or blipping the throttle, but definitely progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 Good work Jim Now its running better it'll only need a tweak to get it purrrrfect . My brother is down on the South Island near Chch , and would be happy to help set it up if you are in that area That Holden would be a nice conversion , a lazy straight 6 mm , cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted July 25, 2012 Author Share Posted July 25, 2012 Yes, I feel I'm very close now! And yes, the Holden is an excellent conversion. More common still is the 186 motor (again a 6) or a Nissan RD28 diesel. Steveb- I was hoping you would come to this thread! Yes, I'm in Christchurch so anywhere near there is ideal! I'm very interested to meet this fellow and see what he's willing to help me out with, as I am very much an amateur!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 Hi jjm I've emailed him to ask if he's got time to have a little look at it for you , when I get a reply I'll pm you contact details, am sure Chris will be able to help in some way ....just got a reply pm on its way cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted July 29, 2012 Author Share Posted July 29, 2012 Cheers for that Steve, your a life saver! So.. Update time. I got a replacement radiator for my holy leaky one and dropped that in today, threw in a thermostat too as mine didnt have one to begin with. Filled it with water mixed with glycol (33%) and fired it up. Settled into its idle nicely and I let it run up to temp. Sat spot 82 degrees which I'm pretty chuffed with, so I thought I'd take her for a drive! Drive pretty nicely until I got into 4th at about 40mph. Started sputtering and backfiring when I tried to accelerate but if I just rested on the throttle it was lovely. I pulled over and popped the bonnet to find there was little droplets of oil everywhere. Drive it for a bit longer. Looked again, and now large amounts of oil everywhere. Upon closer inspection, seems to be coming out of the crankcase ventilator tube head and engine oil filler. What's going on here? Is my oil too full or something or is my motor calling it quits? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Settled into its idle nicely and I let it run up to temp. Sat spot 82 degrees which I'm pretty chuffed with, so I thought I'd take her for a drive! Drive pretty nicely until I got into 4th at about 40mph. Started sputtering and backfiring when I tried to accelerate but if I just rested on the throttle it was lovely. Dunno about the oil, someone will advise but it's probably something blocked in the breather system. The spluttering and backfiring you get in that situation is fuel starvation, as simple as that. Why? Dunno, filter blocked, duff pump, sticking float valve..... First job is a simple task of elimination - with the engine ticking over pull the fuel delivery pipe off and run it into a jar - make sure you're getting healthy spurts of fuel. (have the hose handy in case you manage to get it ti light up!) Julian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 After doing the above , which will be just as effective by cranking on the starter to check flow from the pump , I'd be inclined towards ignition timing , probably too retarded - as you accelerate the vac drops and the vac advance will also reduce , a bit of a tweak on the dizzy clamp and try it out on the road , take the spanner and tweak it the other way while you are out if no improvement . If you have lots of crankcase pressure its either stuck rings or maybe a blowing HG into the crankcase . The breather system is pretty basic on series engines Good to hear you are getting there cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 Hmm, I was thinking timing also, but I will check the fuel system again. What's HG? Excuse my asking. Does anyone know excatly what the vernier advance does and what it should be set to for normal running? I have no idea what it does. Also, my vacuum line coming out of the carb is a steel wire line. Should this be a rubber hose? I feel so close to solving this one! Then it's 4 new tyres, brakes and clutch bled (possibly replacing masters/slaves) and rust patch chopped out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 HG is short for head gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Hmm, I was thinking timing also, Nowt to do with timing, how does the timing manage to create a snag that happens at 40mph in top gear? The timing doesn't know what gear you're in! If it was timing you'd get the snag in any gear - that's just using logic..... Julian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 Right haha cheers! So, a blown head gasket you say... I thought they made the engine use lots of water? Mines not using any.. I suppose I just unbolt the crank case vent tube and clear it with some degreaser. I have heard that squirting a bit of engine oil down the bores via the spark plug holes can restore stuck rings. Am I right? I'll be pretty gutted if I have a blown head gasket.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 The timing still needs to be addressed as its still a little lumpy on idle. Fueling is still certainly a factor, but i feel that it's a few things contributing to one issue. Anyone willing to tell me the deal with the vernier advance and what it does? I don't know what it needs to be set to and I just got it cleaned up and the screw now turns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Set the vernier to the middle of its adjustment range and then set timing using the pinch clamp to the best running under load - then fine adjust using the vernier wheel iirc clockwise is adv. and anticlockwise is retard . Make sure the steel vac pipe is not blocked or kinked etc and has a good connection either end , with it connected to the dizzy you should be able to see the distributor base plate move if you suck on the carb end ( dist. cap off) Engine oil into the sparkplug holes will help to free stuck rings The HG can blow to the crankcase via the oil return galleries , tis unlikely tho as you seem to be getting sorted - sticky rings is my bet as its been laid up for a while cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 Cheers for that Steve! I will shoot some oil down the bores first. I will then adjust my vernier after retweaking the dizzy. This may just solve my lumpy idle issues! Then I'll look to the carb, I want to blow out the needle valve as I think I may have forgotten to do that last time haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 The timing still needs to be addressed as its still a little lumpy on idle. Hmmm, I'm now struggling to find ways to tell you that this isn't timing! Here's what to do, mark the position of the dizzy, slacken the clamp and turn it several degrees one way and the other with the engine idling - that'll prove to you in less time than it's taken to type this that the timing is not the issue. If moving the dizzy one way or the other gets rid of the lumpy idle I'll make a youtube video of me eating my hat and post it on the forum Julian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 Haha ok ok, I get it!! I'm a stubborn bugger like that. I just want to make sure it's spot on. I previously said that I would like to blow out the needle valve housing etc as i think I missed it last time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Nowt to do with timing, how does the timing manage to create a snag that happens at 40mph in top gear? The timing doesn't know what gear you're in! If it was timing you'd get the snag in any gear - that's just using logic..... Julian. julian, it may only occur at 40mph, in 4th gear, as that is a specific point where the engine is at low revs, and labouring (more than it would be in any other gear) whilst trying to pick up its revs. so you are correct, but the reality is, he is only experiencing the right conditions for the engine to splutter (mixture of engine load, speed, and timing advance) in 4th at 40, because its just hitting the wrong spot in the engines setup. nothing a bit of tweaking cant fix though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Gummed up rings or valves leading to compression leakage is a very likely candidate after laying up for so long. A little oil through the sprak plug holes may help as suggested, but a strong does of fuel additive de-coker could also be of benefit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted July 31, 2012 Author Share Posted July 31, 2012 Mikey- that what I was trying to say previously, just couldn't find the words haha! At the risk of straying off-topic, I happened across a YouTube epic of none other than brian putting life and limb on the line, pulling a large tractor in a sand pit! I was very impressed, and I have been following your rebuild thread with great interest! Snagger, can you please elaborate on the additive you talk about? I had thought about using some wynns injector cleaner but I don't have injectors so I don't know if it works, or just a petrol treatment that raises the octane a couple points? We don't get a whole lot of variation in fuel products and the like because NZ is the land of the long white Japanese import haha so never many issues with them! Only a select few are crazy (privileged) enough to own a car of other than jappa descent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 julian, it may only occur at 40mph, in 4th gear, as that is a specific point where the engine is at low revs, and labouring (more than it would be in any other gear) whilst trying to pick up its revs. so you are correct, but the reality is, he is only experiencing the right conditions for the engine to splutter (mixture of engine load, speed, and timing advance) in 4th at 40, because its just hitting the wrong spot in the engines setup. nothing a bit of tweaking cant fix though. Thats pretty much what I was trying to say earlier about timing ,just put more clearly Mikey .......one thing's for sure its related to ignition / and/ or carburation Talking of additives can you get lead replacement additive in NZ? as the valves/seats will not like extended use of unleaded too much cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 It's a petrol version of injector cleaner, which cleans the bores, piston crowns, rings and valve seat. Essentially, it's a chenmical de-coke. I haven't tried using any petrol versions as we only have one petrol vehicle and it's running sweetly, but I have had good results on my diesels with Forte and STP products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted August 3, 2012 Author Share Posted August 3, 2012 Yeah we can get the leading agents here but youve gotta know where to look haha. I bought some fuel additive today, injector cleaner, so I'm gonna throw that in and see what happens. It's undriveable currently as the seat box, floor and trans tunnel are out for cleaning/undersealing/soundproofing. I noted that upon starting it before I stripped the interior it didn't smoke at all really and blipping the throttle didn't yield much either... It's a self repairing car!!!! haha! I have recently purchased a sh*tload of bits off paddocks as well (no britpart) so I'm eagerly awaiting their arrival. Full bodyfull of seals, clutch master and slave seals, sound proof kit and new clutch just name a few. I have my eyes on a new set of points+coil and condenser to go with my new leads and plugs. She's getting spoilt rotten! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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