darthdicky Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 I've got a 4 bolt steering box with a drop arm without a balljoint on it. I bought a balljoint kit to put on it but can't figure out how it goes together? Best diagram I've found is here: Exeter4x4 These are the bits I've got But the arm is different to that shown in the diagram Is this the right kit for this kind of arm? If so, which side is the joint pushed through from - the top or the bottom? Cheers, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 The drop arm on that steering box is designed to take a TRE not a ball joint, makes changing the joint easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Dicky, You need a disco / RR ball joint. They're more like TRE's than what you'd find on a defender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted September 6, 2006 Author Share Posted September 6, 2006 Bugger, if I get a TRE can I still keep the damper mounted on the drag link? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Hang on , I said more like TRE's not actually a TRE! I have a sumo bar with relocated damper. If you have a swan neck you might have a problem.... dunno really - ask a grown up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted September 6, 2006 Author Share Posted September 6, 2006 I have a swan neck type one on there, and it needs a threaded bolt type joint pointing upwards. Will the two drop arms swap over if necessary? Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 I thought they did use a TRE, not had one so could well be wrong though. The drop arm can be swapped, assuming you can get it off the box, this is the only way to keep the swan neck. If you use that drop arm you will need a mount, clamp or weld on, fitting to the drag link for the damper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted September 6, 2006 Author Share Posted September 6, 2006 Bugger. Just been for a look and the nut on the bottom of my box is larger than 32mm, but the one on the PAS box is about 32mm. Guess how big my socket set goes up to! Wondering whether to take both boxes off and over to a garage to get the arms swapped over, might save me a load of hassle... Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Getting the nut off is usually the easy bit. Unless you have a good puller it migth be wortha a trip to the local garage if they are tame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Richard, I converted my Defender swan neck and ball joint arrangement to the version you picture above. I was sick of replacing the joints because the boot comes off, they fill with mud and hold it. I bought a Disco drop arm (as you already have) and a Disco front sumo bar. Screw a TRE into both ends and bob's your uncle, and they're easier to change to boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RocKeR Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 A TRE? There's a whole forrest of the buggers here! Wassat then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Track-rod end. It's a simple TLA... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02GF74 Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 A TRE? There's a whole forrest of the buggers here! Wassat then? TRE - usaul abbreviation for Tack Rod End. basically a bolt with a taper with a ball on the end. the ball is spring loaded and sits inside a housing with a threaded tube or another threaded end coming out of the side. that part screws onto a steering arm or track rod. as thousand words could be saved by 1 picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Dicky, I've got a 4 bolt defender type drop arm floating around my workshop that i fitted a new balljoint kit to before discovering it wouldnt fit to a 6 bolt box - d'oh! Yours for the cost of the balljoint kit if you want it - as I say its never been on the vehicle since the kit was fitted. That makes it a nuts a bolts job to fit to your truck! Cheers Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted September 6, 2006 Author Share Posted September 6, 2006 Cheers guys, I think I'll stick with the Defender arrangement. I've taken the manual box and the PAS one down to the garage and they're going to have a go at swapping the drop arms over. They'll also fit the new balljoint kit as I've got too much other stuff to do at the moment. Cheers for the offer Jon, but I'm hoping I've got the right arm on the current box and they'll swap easily. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted September 6, 2006 Author Share Posted September 6, 2006 On second thoughts, I'm wondering whether I might need that arm Jon... Looking through a parts manual I found on the net it seems that I have a Gemmer manual box, and the PAS box is an Adwest. Gemmer make the 6 bolt one and if you found that they don't swap, I have a feeling the two I have are different and therefore won't fit. Other alternative is to go for some Sumo bars and a relocation kit, but I wasn't planning on splashing out on them yet. Anyone got a picture of the relocation kit fitted as I want to make sure it'll clear my winch shafts? Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 Dicky, Correct - I just checked the parts book and the drop arm for a gemmer box is a different part number than for a 4 bolt box. If you'd had the adwest manual box it would have swapped over. Well you know where it is if you want it. Probably wont be cheap to post though cause its pretty weighty! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted September 7, 2006 Author Share Posted September 7, 2006 So much for a cheap conversion - I've just splashed out on some Sumo bars Garage had huge trouble getting the old arm off so I've decided to keep the disco one and use TREs. To replace all of them now I guess I need 4 of them? 2 RTC 5870 and 2 RTC 5869? Can you get greasable ones and are they any good? Which way up does the joint go on the drop arm? Sumo website seems to show it with the joint below the arm which doesn't seem too well protected? Cheers, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 It indeed goes below the arm. That way the 'ball' is in the same place but the gubbins that supports it is higher and out of the way. If the ball was above the arm (it'd hit stuff and the taper wouldn't fit and) you'd get bump-steer because the drag link wouldn't be parallel to the panhard rod. Now you just need four standard TREs (2x LH thread, 2x RH thread) and you can specify the greasable type when you buy them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted September 7, 2006 Author Share Posted September 7, 2006 Are the greaseable ones worth having, or shall I stick with Lemforder ones at £6.50 +VAT from paddocks? Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 Greasable ones are worth it and they're not much more money. You wont regret the Sumo bars. B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted September 7, 2006 Author Share Posted September 7, 2006 Right, just ordered 4 of them from Exeter4x4, £5.52+VAT each so cheaper than Paddocks anyway Any chance you could dig out that reservoir bracket sometime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 Yup, it's on the floor of the garage I think.... or is it in the shed... hmmmmm. All I have to do is remember to look for it when I get home! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted September 7, 2006 Author Share Posted September 7, 2006 Arse, just noticed that the relocation bracket seems to be pin-pin, whereas my damper is eye-pin So, I guess I need a new one of those too? Why is nothing ever simple or cheap! Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 I used the original damper I think, with an eye at the o/s end. If I remember tonight I'll photograph it for you, I think it's a QT relocator bracket (but it doesn't fit well on my Sumoalike solid bars, I had to pack it out a bit). Pin to eye converter is easy though - bend a piece of strip into a U shape and drill a hole in each part of the U - three holes in total. Bolt that to your relocation bracket, and bolt the damper eye inside the U. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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