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Rear recovery point


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So it's got to the stage of the rebuild where I need to consider what type of recovery point I'm going to fit to the back of the 90. It will be used for play days and amateur challenges so must be strong enough for snatch recovery - the chassis is a brand new Richards job so no need to worry about chassis corrosion. I've ruled out Jate rings because they wedge up against the chassis and are under the vehicle, usually buried in the mud.

I'll be fitting a detachable towbar, but am not sure on the final recovery point. Which ever option I choose, there will be a 9mm Nato hitch reinforcement plate on the back of the crossmember. So far I've got 3 different options, but if anyone has any suggestions they would be much appreciated.

1. Use the 4.5t shackle in the receiver - my concerns about this is the strength of the large removable pin (picture 1)

2. Weld a recovery loop to the towbar bracket (where the Nato hitch would go) - If I used this option, I would drill 2 large but snug holes through the bracket, put the ends of the loop through and weld both sides of the plate...and just in case anyone worries, I will use a proper ring not 3 core electrical wire! :ph34r: (picture 2)

3. Just bolt a Nato hitch on - I have one already but would like to keep the weight of the 90 down and it's in the way when I unload the 90 or people are getting in/out.

Any advice is much appreciated :)

Harry

IMG_0951.jpg

IMG_0953.jpg

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None of your options would pass for scrutineering at an ALRC event, there are not supposed to be 'welded'..... i have seen a reciever type hich get past a scrutineer, but he insisted that the pin be swapped for an 8.8 rated bolt, so if you have concerns, do that, and maybe use a nyloc nut, it will mean taking a pair of spanners to it to fit/remove it, but thats small price to pay, plus it actually makes it less liekly for someone to nick the hitch, or even whatever trailer you might be towing!!

People don;t seem to consider the option that theieves might actually unbolt a ball hitch to nick a trailer, everyone locks to trailer to the ball, and then has two bolts holding it on, anyone serious would just undo the bolts!

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......

People don;t seem to consider the option that theieves might actually unbolt a ball hitch to nick a trailer, everyone locks to trailer to the ball, and then has two bolts holding it on, anyone serious would just undo the bolts!

People also don't consider the hitch being nicked, the slider portion of a dixon bate with a ball and pin hitch works out pretty expensive to replace ......

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Cheers for the replies guys, I was reluctant to use the Nato hitch and I shan't be doing MSA events so I will drop that option. With regards to the link posted by Westfield106, would that also fail under MSA scrutineering because the loop is welded to the backing plate?

I think for now I may as well use the receiver hitch, it's got a 3/4" pin with no wear on it so should be ok. It saves me having to buy/weld a recovery loop also!

As for security, I was planning to drill a second hole through the end of the lynch pin (beside the smaller spring pin) so that I can put a padlock through it, any trailers are always chained to the chassis when in use and to be on the safe side I will probably leave the drop-plate in the garage when not in use. The shackle attachment can live in the locked ammo box until required.

I went to fit the towbar last night, and was rather suprised to see the 4 bolts that came with the NATO hitch are only 8.8 rated, should I use them with new nylocks or fit high tensile versions. The only other 2 bolts that hold the detachable bracket on are 2 x 17mm (M10?) that go through the anti-rollbar mounts. Does this seem strong enough?

Many thanks, Harry

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I've git a similar receiver hitch on the 90, my recovery eye is a warn one, excellent quality, I use a bolt instead of a quick release pin tho, fit two reasons, firstly it didn't come with a pin and secondly, it's not going to wear the hole on the towbar mount

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The 'loop' looks all wrong to me: the edges of the holes in the plate will put nicks in the loop and these will become stress-raisers. Then something will go "Ping!" at the most inconvenient time.

Sharp edges are your enemy in any and all high-load situations.

I'd look at using proper industrial/commercial rings and lifting shackles (the sort of things used on cranes). And if fitting anything through a rear crossmember with bolts, it's always advised to install 'crush-tubes' otherwise when you wind the bolts up to a sensible torque-level you'll just end up pulling the two plates of the crossmember together.

--Tanuki

"He would say that, wouldn't he?" -Christine Keiller.

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mine is a single pin for the slider too, it doesn't have a different rating to the 2 pin variant,

I thought the 2 pin variant of the slider was rated at 5 ton and the single pin at 3.5 ton, I can't check at the moment as www.dixonbate.co.uk has a problem at the mo.

I'm aware you can't tow 5 ton with a standard Defender

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Cheers for the advice guys :)

I removed the NATO hitch from a 90 the day after it was released from MOD so nothing had been tampered with :o Would it be a better idea to use high tensile? 12.9 maybe?

The cast block that takes the shackle is Warn branded and the shackle is rated at 4.5t so I have no concerns about strength, I may substitute the lynch pin for another high tensile bolt though just to be on the safe side. Nothing will be on the receiver when it's not being used so wear as a result of vibration should be reduced but if it can be stopped totally that is preferable. There is a small m8 bolt that screws into the side of the bracket and pushes against the drop plate/recovery point which further reduces movement.

Whichever recovery point you go for, I'd not put it on with a hammer in your left hand judging from your photo... :P

Just noticed this...it was the door of the tractor! Had my hand on the door pillar, turned around to walk off and slammed the door...I just forgot to remove my hand! :(

The 'loop' looks all wrong to me: the edges of the holes in the plate will put nicks in the loop and these will become stress-raisers. Then something will go "Ping!" at the most inconvenient time.

Sharp edges are your enemy in any and all high-load situations.

I'd look at using proper industrial/commercial rings and lifting shackles (the sort of things used on cranes). And if fitting anything through a rear crossmember with bolts, it's always advised to install 'crush-tubes' otherwise when you wind the bolts up to a sensible torque-level you'll just end up pulling the two plates of the crossmember together.

--Tanuki

"He would say that, wouldn't he?" -Christine Keiller.

Sorry I wasn't sure, are you referring to the loop in the parts diagram that Western supplied or my picture using electrical cord? My chassis had crush tubes welded in by Richards during manufacture, there will also be a Nato backing plate approx 8mm x 7 inch x 4 inch on the inner face of the chassis so I'm hoping that should be ok, would you suggest something else or will I be ok?

Thanks for all of the advice :)

Harry

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