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sealed headlight question...again


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Hello. Just been to the local garage, the bloke there says I can change the bulb in the sealed headlight, is that correct, he can't get new sealed units in today but can get the bulbs, and I need the Landy tomorrow night to drive to Aberdeen so I'm looking for a quick fix for now, cheers

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Yeah that was my thinking, but the bloke who is on his 70s and had quite a few landys in his time is positive that it can be changed. I questioned it a few times but he was adamant about it,and he's not a cowboy,I've used this garage a few times. Hummm, maybe with the risk,I could alerts take the bulbs back if he is wrong.

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Cheers for the replies, yeah I've ordered a new set, I'm just looking for a quick fix as I need the Landy tomorrow night, and the bloke at the garage was sure that the bulbs he is getting for me could be exchanged onto my current sealed units,I just didn't think that was possibleI'm thinking that sealed means sealed!

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Ha ha, yeah.... well.... After me calling him back and saying again that I really didnt think it would work, I popped round at the end of work and he apologised and presented me with a new unit like this;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-HEADLIGHT-CONVERSION-KIT-HALOGEN-/251076975857

And he only charged me £15, Iv just got the lights fitted, all good now, and there is a massive difference in the brightness, so I dont have to worry about getting nicked driving to Aberdeen tomorrow night :)

Cheers to you all.

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All finished Im afraid Mike! :)

Bugga

A bit of light history for you.

Halogen first appeared as QI for the RAC rally in 1959.....Only in H1 form. This was the cause of the very famous Monte Carlo Rally disqualification of the three works Mini's

It was Thorn EMI I believe that made the brakethrough to produce the H4 we are all very used to now Before that the British cars used the BPF British Pre Focus bulbs whch when dipped had two pools of light on the road like a main beam but pointing down.

You could get continental lights with the assymetric dip whiche were a lot better

Before BPF an ordinary single contact bulb was used. It was possible to get those bulbs in 60Watt but the light was terrable. The beam adjustment was by moving the bulb holder in or out of the reflector.

POSH cars had two headlights that dipped. The dipping was done by a solenoid which moved the reflector up for the main beam.

Most cars and commercials, including the Bristol double decker I learnt to drive in had two headlights. The left one pointing to the ground as a dip.

The righthand one pointing along the road and was extinguished when you dipped...

I passed my driving test in December 1959 so you can see the improvement in vehicle lighting in that shortish time.

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On the subject of headlamps, has anyone wired theirs so that when main beam is on dip beam is still lit?

A lot of modern cars have a separate main/dip bulb (H1 and H7 pair) and the dip stays lit when main is on - this provides a fair bit of extra light closer to the car. Now I was under the impression that if one was to try this with H4 (ie. dual filament) bulbs then they would soon over-heat and would fail prematurely.

Anyone got any experience doing this with H4s?

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On the subject of headlamps, has anyone wired theirs so that when main beam is on dip beam is still lit?

A lot of modern cars have a separate main/dip bulb (H1 and H7 pair) and the dip stays lit when main is on - this provides a fair bit of extra light closer to the car. Now I was under the impression that if one was to try this with H4 (ie. dual filament) bulbs then they would soon over-heat and would fail prematurely.

Anyone got any experience doing this with H4s?

I see you don't read any of my posts.........LOL

All explained in my headlight wiring post here

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=80953

I've done it since I changed from Marchal Amplilux to H4 headlights.

Be aware that the life of the H4 can be shortened....Not that I've noticed.

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I have my H4s wired through relays, one for both dipped and one for both main and the bullbar spots. The spots help because the headlights lose a lot of light witht he slats in the bullbar. However, I recently fitted the 150% brighter bulbs from Halfords (about £8-9 each, with a blue stripe near the tip of the glass and a very white light), and they are superb. I really don't think I'd need the spots with those bulbs, though more light is not something I intend to remove! My RRC has standard H4 bulbs and Wipac lenses and has very good light projection with the standard wiring setup. I suspect that wiring them to have both filaments burning at the same time on main beam will cause heating problems to the bulbs or connector block, though the switches should have no trouble if relays are used. I also have niggling doubts over the legality of that arrangement, though I can't imaging it being detected, let alone resulting in any penalty.

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Like I've already said. I've used that system for many years.

As for the connecting block melting. Yes I've had that happen on my Defender using 100/ 50 H4's. I didn't have a problem on my Sunbeam rally car using 100/90 H4's

When Phillips brought out the H1. There was some concerns about the glass in the headlight/ spot/ drive/ fog light cracking due to heat if the lights were left on when stationary. As you know it didn't happen.

I find that main beam is used that rarely these days I don't worry about any problems.

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