Jon White Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 Right.........I've now been buggering about with the damn thing for 2 days and it still isn't right! Been fitting lift up handle 90 doors to my series over the weekend that i salvaged from Si White's scrap bin a while back. Drivers side one is lovelly - shuts perfectly, lines up perfectly, catches are smooth and easy to operate......... Passenger side one, no matter what i do to it I have to slam it to get it to shut properly, sometimes several times, its doesnt line up very well, and more annoying of all it flatly refuses to undo from inside! Anyone know anything about adjusting these doors?? If i take the striker off the bodywork and fit it into the catch it all works smoothly, and releases perfectly from inside and out. Bolt the striker back on and it refuses to open from inside! I'm tearing my hair out with it now! I've tried adjusting the door at the bulkhead end and have got it lined up as good as you can with a dented old series, but i cannot adjust the striker in enough to align the door flat with the bodywork. If I take the striker off completely the door swings open and shut freely so it isnt catching on anything etc........ I can live with it not lining up too well, but not opening from the inside is a right royal pain! I've adjusted the linkage, and moved the interior handle on the slots, but it all just seems to jam up rather than relase the door. Its all clean and free and lubricated, and I've had the whole lot in bits and i'm still at a loss to explain why the hell it wont work! Anyone ever had this and got any suggestions? As an aside I finally admitted defeat and bought some blingy new screwdrivers and for the first time since I've owned the truck managed to get the adjusting screws for the door hinges undone! Result! Thanks Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 try it with the door rubbers removed(if fitted) I just fitted new ones and the passenger door is a git to shut which is even more strange as Vals 110 has new doors/rubbers and shuts as easy as could be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 may need to elongate the striker holes on the door pillar [not the striker plate itself] to let the striker sit in the right place & it may need some shims under the striker to line up front to rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 .... not opening from the inside is a right royal pain! Not to mention an MoT fail - ask me how I know.... sorry, can't be any more help with the doors... Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 My top tip is to stick a lump of plasticene to the striker just to see where the catch on the door is hitting it. That tells you in one hit which direction to move it and by how much for a perfect fit! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 Not to mention an MoT fail - ask me how I know.... sorry, can't be any more help with the doors... Mark I got a advisory for my left rear door not being able to be opened from inside, I went to it unlocked it from inside & opened it no trouble at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted October 1, 2006 Author Share Posted October 1, 2006 Hmmmmmmmm dont really want to have to take the door rubbers off casue series ones are rivetted on and it'd be a right pain to take them off. I've already filed slots for the bolt holes to allow me to adjust so it aint that. I've been messing about with a pile of penny washers all day for use as shims and that has improved things but it still aint right....... Sigh........its got dark and I got the hump with it so I'll have another fiddle tomorrow night......... Thanks chaps! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 best fit a Diesel and some coil springs then the V8/leafs are to blame for all your woes to be sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 I've been messing about with a pile of penny washers all day for use as shims and that has improved things but it still aint right....... sounds like a thicker spacer & longer bolts to get the striker in a better location is needed. are you using the Series doorlocks/strikers or the 90 parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 Going well then ? It can be a RPITA these, the 90s seemed like the drivers was easy and the pass a nightmare, Simon Rs Idea is a goodie, let me have a lookie and I can wind you up big time help maybe ? Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted October 2, 2006 Author Share Posted October 2, 2006 Using the 90 parts. Think i might have had a thought whilst in bed last night (dont ask). I suspect it might be that the door frame is fouling the eye bolt for lower harness mount. I'll have a look 2nite. And thanks nige, but welding a big lump of 3/4" plate to it make make the doors shut with a more satisfying clunk, but will only make the leaves lean even more than they do already!!! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 hit it with one of your large selection of hammers til it fits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 I'm on the same boat,although the doors shut,but it takes such energy I am close to bend the panels every time. I will probably disintegrate the windows first. Slightly OT but not so far... Series doors on Defender...what seals suit better? The original doors have seals riveted on bottom side. I have a sample which looks like it goes riveted on the floor instead? At the mo I'm using thick rags under the mats to avoid puddles... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 Early 90/110 have one piece door seals with the lower section rivetted to the bodyside member [sill] below the doors, later vehicles [Defender] has the lower seal rivtted to the door bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 Early 90/110 I thought it was a Series thing I'll probably give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted October 2, 2006 Author Share Posted October 2, 2006 Right - sorted - 5 minutes when I didnt have the hump with it and it all opens and closes lovelly - just needed a little more adjustment! Just noticed the window channels rotten.........sigh - they're a PITA to replace! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 Result, well done Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 told ya a hammer would sort it, replacing the windows channels is easy, all you have to do is completely strip the door Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted October 3, 2006 Author Share Posted October 3, 2006 No - I mean the bit that clips onto the bottom of the glass - they're a PITA to get back onto the glass again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 just nail a new one on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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