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Alloy wheels for early 2A


THE 109

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Hello,

I have a friend with an early 2A lwb who wants to fit alloy wheels, it has the double sided wheel nuts on it.

Are the wheel studs the same diameter as later coil sprung rovers?

Will hub/drive flange clearance be a problem, needing to use open centre wheels?

Cheers,

Eric

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Thanks for the replies guys, it sounds like the studs are infact smaller but have the same PCD.

Swapping to later hubs is easy enough providing he can source some, he lives in remote Papua New Guinea.

Then some alloys with open centres like hurricanes should fit straight on.

"Landy-Novice"

What model 110 and drive flanges are you running to have clearance issues?

Cheers,

Eric

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these are the alloys i have on my series 3, i have no idea what make they are, they came fitted to a range rover years ago.

i havent had to adjust the wheels at all to fit over my hubs, and they dont look like they've been hacked around at all.

i did have to fit longer studs to the hubs though, as the wheels are fairly thick in the centre.

post-12691-0-01058300-1376296556_thumb.jpg

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I think the ones I have are the same as the pic wolf alloys but they need special nuts and are 15 inch.

Fitting alloys to an early 110 with the early dive members or indeed rear drum brakes. The rear on the drum is usually ok it's the front hub protrudes the thickness of the drum brake hib face more and the alloys foul the drive member bolts. I have machined down drive members changed to cap headed bolts and counter sunk them in to gain enough clearance. I have been told some alloys fit I cannot say I agree as I've not tried any others except RRC alloys these almost fit but certainly do not and require work. If you have a later axle skinny drive member on the front or indeed domed RRC axle then they should fit no probs.

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To fit LR alloys on older 90s and 110s with the thick hubs and drive flanges, you can either use spacers (with the incumbent increase in wheel bearing, stub axle and steering component wear that they bring, and a marked increase in steering forces on non-PAS models), you can turn the inside of the wheel on a lathe to increase hub clearance, or you can use a thin spacer and, if desired, longer studs.

Regarding the latter, my 109 has a 110 rear axle which I converted to discs using (amongst other parts) 110 front hubs. These don't allow the alloys to fit on - the inside of the wheel centre fouls on the bevelled edge of the hub between the drive flange bolt holes. A 1/4 spacer, made from the centre of a scrap brake drum, sorted that clearance out with minimal track increase (6mm vs normal spacers' 30mm). However, I was concerned about the amount of thread engagement on the studs. Wolf studs are 1/2" (12mm) longer, so I used these. That produced another obstacle - the alloy nuts ran out of internal thread 2-3 mm before pulling up on the wheels. Rather than cutting the studs down and damaging their hardening or heat treatment with the heat generated by grinding, I just used a tap to extend the threads inside the nuts and no more problem. I don't know if replacing the studs like that would be essential, but I'd rather have 6mm more engagement than 6mm less.

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