spcollins

I referred to this thread when doing mine: http://www.orrp.info/smf/index.php?topic=31708.400 When I did my own, i mated the flywheel up and it became obvious home much I needed to cut off. Hopefully this is helpful.

That's a great job! Looks strong too.

Will do - thank you!

Well I have changed almost everything else so that would make sense. Thanks for the suggestion.

Sorry - its a 2004 TD5 Disco Auto.

I have exactly the same issue. The injector loom was just changed and it had a full service (including all filters) but the problem remains. The fuel regulator was changed too at the same time. Still no better. Also, on startup, it can be "lumpy" for about 5 seconds. I would also appreciate suggestions to help solve this problem.

How about something like these? I know they are not to everyone's taste: http://www.paddockspares.com/land-rover-wheels-and-tyres/steel-wheels/16-inch-aftermarket-steel-wheels.html

I bought 2 front door seals recently - one for each side for my Defender project. One came in a Britpart bag and the other came in an Allmakes bag. Neither fitted properly and i had to cut the Britpart one as it was too long and both needed to be bent into shape with a rubber mallet and kept falling back off the car. I eventually got them to fit kind of but the doors wouldn't close properly. I hav=d to use Tiger seal on one of them on one side to stop them falling back off the vehicle. It took me ages (I would guess over an hour) to get them to fit but I really wasn't happy with them at all. They were never going to seal correctly and the wind noise was excessive. I bit the bullet and bought new genuine seals that evening. I fitted them within 1 minute on each side with the heel of my hand (no rubber malle required here!). They are a perfect fit and are formed perfectly to seal. Don't waste your time or money on anything other then genuine seals. The non genuine ones were binned as that is all they are good for! Oh - I was so impressed that I bought the new type genuine lower door seal for both doors and they are a great job too!

Hi Shackleton, steer clear of Galco. They're as rough as hell. I used Sprint in Blanchardstown http://www.sprintcoatings.com. They send trailer loads up to the north to get galved every week. They did a very neat job and they are nice to deal with. My chassis was fine but my bulkhead was warped quite a bit. A jig is definitely the way to go. I hope this helps.

I agree - Numax are great and good value as they are really good quality. We bought them from Manbat but here they are elsewhere: http://www.tayna.co.uk/Numax-CXV24MF-P3126.html

Ralph - you are dead right. I found it on their website. The picture they have of the loom on their website is incorrect but hopefully it is just a sample image. Will call them tomorrow and post here what they say. £68 + VAT quoted on their website is good enough value - especially when you compare against the genuine LR item! Thanks folks!

I may have to do just that, Ralph. Thanks. Is there no way to remove the old loom without destroying it? I have access to a donor 90 with the same loom I need. Thanks Ron! I thought they only made looms up to 200TDi. I just mailed them now. Will post here what they say.

Has anyone any ideas where I might get a new or good second hand chassis wiring loom for a late 300TDi 90 CSW, please? I can't find one anywhere.

I would take Gywn's advice but if the steering is fine then I'd buy ones that are cranked at the chassis side only. I bought a set of galvanised ones that Gwyn had cranked at the chassis side only as that's what he recommended.

Thank you lads!

Hi boys and girls. I am progressing with the project 90 nicely. I am about to send off the body panels, doors, etc. off for spraying. The CSW top is in a different physical location to the tub - will the 2 fit together or will I need to change something? I need to do any prep work before I send them off. Can I change the filler on the 1986 90 tub to be the same as a later 1997 filler? Sorry for all the questions. Thanks folks. Simon.

Thanks for that lads, especially Steve. I will add it to the purchases list! Gwyn Lewis challenge suspension kit just about to be ordered tomorrow too. Credit card is taking a hammering at the moment.

Thanks for the help lads!

I also put a ring of blue Hylomar gasket sealant on the casing to seal between the transfer box and main gearbox - I assume this was the right thing to do?

Hi folks, I am working away on my project (full rebuild of a 90 - full report will be done and posted here soon). I am starting the build back up of all the bits - ohhh shiny! Anyway, I have my newly reconditioned gearbox and transfer box and have most of the bits back together. When I was cleaning the parts i intended on reusing I noticed that the linkages were a little homemade to say the least: I have looked through the parts books online and I can't find what selector linkages I should have and part numbers of the parts I need to buy. Or are they correct? Any suggestions, please? Thank you! S.

Am just about to try this. I bought a GS spec one and it didn't have heated seats so i bought them form a scrapper in the UK, along with the dash switches. I just recently bought the 2 heated relays (part number AWR5160 I believe). Will report back once we've tried it and let you know how it goes.

Wow - a silent series gearbox! Now that would be a first!

good progress Gary!

looking good Gary!! Great stuff.

Glad to help!