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24 spline shafts, are they the same...


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Hi All,

first of all sorry mods if this is the wrong place, but it requires knowledge from multiple models.

i would like to know if the 24 spline series shafts, a-la FRC1644/45 will fit into the later 24 spline coiler diffs,

essentially are these 24 splines the same, or different in some way?


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thanks guys, yes i realised today while researching that all series shafts were 10 spline inner.

Soren, how did you fit the shafts in reversed and retain them (obviously backwards there would be nothing to stop the endfloat.

how did you solve this?

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sorry, to make it clearer, i am moving to a stronger aftermarket diff with 24 spline centers,

therefore with a standard series axle, and the lack of availability of "direct fit" shafts, i need a solution.

a tempting solution being standard later shafts flipped round with standard shafts, and welded flanges thus creating a purposeful weak link, at the flange end, like Soren said, to save my series box, yet not so weak that it will snap all the time. standard parts, so cost and availability are a plus, and i could keep a couple of spares (its always the short end that goes) so as to be able to get up and running straight away again.

i know you "shouldnt" weld a flange to a shaft, but, if it works and is cheap, and replacable. (the flanges are only pittence and can use S**tpart ones as welded i wouldnt need to rely on the cheese splines.

welding on the outside face only wouldnt make it neccisarily any weaker than a normal shaft either.

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I can do that,

The plan is to also carry a couple spare shaft "assemblies" along with me on my travels

has anyone ever broke the long shaft? i was just thinking getting a couple of spares of the shorter shaft as they have less length to twist before they yield.

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Its pretty pointless to go to a 24 spline diff, then fit 10 spline outers. In your situation, I would get some cheap 110 salisbury shafts, shorthen them and press fit and weld them in a sleeve. Get britpart new shafts, surely they weld ok and you still have your weak spot :wacko: . It does mean you need to remove the stub axle to fit them, but I think it will be much stronger than any 10 spline matchstick.


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i definately would not buy Britpart shafts, only the flanges.

i will eventually get stronger shafts, but for now, being as i am running a series box and a tuned TDi, i would prefer my weak spot to be an axle shaft not a layshaft

and i am not afraid of removing the stub axle to fit shortened and sleeved shafts, in fact that may be the route i take somewhere in the future.

im currently doing this as i have gone for an Ashcrofts ATB, mainly for strength than anything. i have done my fair share of rear diffs in it now.

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KAM used to do stronger shafts for a series axle, might be worth giving them a call, also, their shafts seem to have much longer splines on them than stock, which may mean you can just cut one down to fit:


Ashcroft dabbled with making them as well, whilst out of stock on the site they might be tempted back into it:


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Hi mate, sorry totally forgot about this thread! yeah I just cut a groove for a lock ring on the outside of the flange with an anglegrinder. Not necessary on the inside as the splines just slide all the way in so they have a natural stop from moving outwards. That being said though, the shaft won't really move anywhere because the 24 spline can't move in, and the 10 spline can't move out. And trust me guys it is worth doing, as because of physics that I do not understand, there is much more load on diff end of shafts. So with flipped 10/24 shafts you definitely upgrade the strength. And just fit a short 110" disc braked Sal's shaft to the short side, then you only have to carry one extra shaft!

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hmm, im going to have a look at the options in the workshop at the weekend when/if i get round to fit(ting) my diff,

this month will be tight on money though after 4 new tyres and road tax on the chevvy, this diff and shafts, the rent, bills, food, beer.

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