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200 tdi wont turn over, locked solid :(


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Long story but in a nutshell.....

Fitted new big end shells, engine tight but ran ok

After standing a long time, came to sort it and the engine wouldn't even turn with a socket and long bar on the crank, wouldn't move at all, not even a little bit.

Took engine out and slackened big end nuts off a bit and it turned fine, removed shells and they are badly marked but not scored.

They were originally torqued to 44 lbs ft (not nm) which I thought was a little tight but that's what the book said

Shells marked as std but going to get new ones and try again

What can be up with it as original shell were ok and crank seems fine

Ta

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Regardless. If it turned ok after you loosened the big ends, then thats your problem. If the big end bearings were correct size they should not be marked at all.

Im no expert on this engine but some engines have big end caps that sided. Ie it matters which way round they are?

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I really think you need to pull all the bearing-shells: they're either the wrong ones for the crank-grind size, or you have some sort of crud trapped between them and the block/retaining-saddles that's pushing one or more of the shells harder on to the crank than is correct.

A rebuilt short-block [fitted with crank/pistons/conrods, no oil-pump or camshaft-drive, all parts washed down with Acetone to remove any machining oil] should spin freely by hand: a good 'flick' on the flywheel should get you 4 or 5 revolutions before it stops

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I really think you need to pull all the bearing-shells: they're either the wrong ones for the crank-grind size, or you have some sort of crud trapped between them and the block/retaining-saddles that's pushing one or more of the shells harder on to the crank than is correct.

I reckon thats spot-on..

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Wish I could photo bearings, camera is lost, not seen it for three weeks might have to buy another..

They are the correct bearings, my workshop is on the same premises as Lymm Engine Components Ltd so I have access to their stock and expertise, I can be sure that they are correct.

I am thinking that they may have been over torqued, easy to set the wrench to just a little over 44 and then go a little beyond the 'click' and the total of both those 'mistakes' could add up to maybe 46/48 lbs ft

Does any one know which way up the number on the end cap should be when fitted in relation to the engine, for instance....engine lay on side with turbo underneath, number right way up or wrong way up?

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All shells pulled and clean as a whistle, all washed in paraffin when assembled and lightly oiled, I used to build Mini engines years ago and some of those would be a little tight but not as tight as this one, they would turn by hand but stiffish.

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A couple of foot pounds wouldn't make any difference to the bearings, putting the caps on the wrong way round will though, rods and caps are machined as a unit.

Are the beaings showing more damage in the join area or the top and bottom?

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I'll check the caps on Monday, I didn't actually fit them , I had help from a 'Mechanic' friend as I was unwell at the time and couldn't lift anything.

I'll check that all numbers (1 2 3 4 ) are the same way up when we fit the new shells and if tight I will reverse them all.

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