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Font Salisbury?


d-90

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You need military or armoured vehicles, I think some HD pickups had them too but they're uncommon to say the least. There was a company (P A Blanchard?) advertising them.

Or you could be different and try to convert a rear to be a front, rears (esp. drum braked ones) go for no money (£30 seems to be the going rate).

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Hello,

Already serched for P A Blanchard on the web. Sent them an email.

I also have considered the idea of converting a rear one to the front, and use my current Swivels and hubs, but if I could a get a direct replacement, it would be even better.

Cheers

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I am a bit far away from you but I have a front Salisbury that I built some years ago that has both coil and leaf spring mounting brackets as well as radius arm/panhard rod mounts.Unless you fit 101 swivels and CV's nn my experience they are an overweight ground clearance eating piece of overkill in the front because even a strengthened Rover type diff is capable of killing high quality standard CV joints.

Bill.

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Their usefulness is someaht a function of your intended vehicle use.

If you intend to run large tyres (and for the purposes of this exercise we will call that "over 35 inches"), then a front Salisbury may be useful. In fact, you would have to run this size tyre to compensate for the diminished growund clearance caused by the size of the diff (having said that, I recall seeing a tech post on here about shaving a Sals diff that was quite good). Now you have a pretty strong diff, but what about half-shafts and CV's? You will likely need to strengthen both, especially if running tyres in the 36" range and above. Stronger half-shafts and CVs are available but costs are mounting...

Another route to consider is converting to Toyota innards and Toyota based CV/stub axle assemblies. Not necessarily a cheap option, but it saves you a few inches on the diff and means you can keep disc brakes up front. There is a good deal of information on this on PBB Pirate and you may wish to consider this as an alternative.

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Hi,

Have had a quote from PA Blanchard. 895 pounds it´s their price.

The plan for the Salisbury front is to make a Dana60 30 spline conversion, with custom 1.3" shafts in 300M and LongField CVs. The tyres will be in the 38" size range.

Stronger than this, I believe it would be some kind of U-Joints conversion, but too much work/cost in this.

Also considered a Toyota conversion, for better Ring and Pinion, but portuguese Toyotas do brake a lot of Ring and Pinions (don´t know if alxes are diffrent from Australian or US Toyotas) and I don´t feel so confident about it.

Cheers

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Hi,

Have had a quote from PA Blanchard. 895 pounds it´s their price.

The plan for the Salisbury front is to make a Dana60 30 spline conversion, with custom 1.3" shafts in 300M and LongField CVs. The tyres will be in the 38" size range.

Stronger than this, I believe it would be some kind of U-Joints conversion, but too much work/cost in this.

Also considered a Toyota conversion, for better Ring and Pinion, but portuguese Toyotas do brake a lot of Ring and Pinions (don´t know if alxes are diffrent from Australian or US Toyotas) and I don´t feel so confident about it.

Cheers

What about just getting a pair of 101 axles and doing a disk brake conversion? The CVs and shafts are pretty strong as stock. Infact, I think bathtub was thinking of selling his 3-linked, ARBed, shaved and disk braked 101 axles. As far as uprated shafts go, I don't know whether you'd need them with 101 axles - Bathtub's never broken anything AFAIK and he's very hard on his vehicle and uses 39" and 42" tyres.

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Hi,

Already have a Salisbury rear, so the front would be easier as I would only have to bolt it in. However, would be curious about those FC101 axles.

Maverick, I ´ve PM you.

Cheers

Andy Marshallsay (aka Moglite) did this conversion on his Ibex. IMHO, I think the work involved to make them fit and work propperly (ie the internals you'll be fitting) is more involving than modding a 101 axle to fit a coiler. I'm sure Andy will agree that it wasn't a bolt on conversion....

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I'm sure Andy will agree that it wasn't a bolt on conversion....

Nah it was a bolt in. :P

Only fun I had was the missing track-rod that had to be made

ARB and 4.7 series diff bolted straight in, which isn't the case with some of the 101 stuff, but I cannot remember the details.

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Nah it was a bolt in. :P

Only fun I had was the missing track-rod that had to be made

ARB and 4.7 series diff bolted straight in, which isn't the case with some of the 101 stuff, but I cannot remember the details.

IIRC 101s use a 5.4 ratio R&P which is a little arkward to get hold of and the shafts are a 23 spline count and lockers can only be sourced through GBR who make new side gears for ARBs/Detroit diffs.

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Nah it was a bolt in. :P

ARB and 4.7 series diff bolted straight in, which isn't the case with some of the 101 stuff, but I cannot remember the details.

The only details with fitting an ARB into a 101 diff is the halfshaft splines.ARB have done a handfull of 101 pattern side gears for their difflocks, but are always reluctant to do so when enquiries are made. One could get the standard ARB 24 spline side gears annealed, broached out and rehardened, but I don't know of anyone in the UK that has the 101 pattern broach. Jack McNamara differentials in Melbourne has a broach, but somehow I don't think the request to modify a competitors difflock would go over too well with them.

Bill.

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IIRC 101s use a 5.4 ratio R&P which is a little arkward to get hold of and the shafts are a 23 spline count and lockers can only be sourced through GBR who make new side gears for ARBs/Detroit diffs.

101's are 5.57:1 ratio

35spline dana 60 arbs and 300m rakeway shafts are the way to enlightenment :D

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101's are 5.57:1 ratio

35spline dana 60 arbs and 300m rakeway shafts are the way to enlightenment :D

That´s my point. The rear salisbury is being worked that way. For the front, I am thinking on 1.3" 30 splines ARBs, 300M shafts and Longfields. I think I can get a very strong setup with this, don´t you?

Or will the 101FC + disc conversion + welding and steering would come stronger/cheapper?

Cheers

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