elbekko Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 You can disable the geotagging on your phone, no issues then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Looks good Robert! You can check (and edit!) your photos for geotags here: http://www.geoimgr.com/ if you feel concerned. I have previously worried about it - but figured it's pretty easy to find my address on line if you look so masking it in a photo is pointless. Obviously that;s not true for everyone though! Si P.S. No geotags found in your photos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 Thanks gents and thanks for the check link and info Si. Strange thing about worried your garage may get done but you spend years accumulating stuff don't want to give anyone any easy option on getting it as no amount of alarms locks CCTV smoke bombs flash bangs or other devices installed on your own property will bring your gear back quicker than not loosing it in the first place and not with a schoolboy error of some geotags (safest using a dumb camera (nongps)) Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Geotags is something I'd never given any thought too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 I'm probably over thinking the problem again... Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 I'm probably over thinking the problem again... Rob Not necessarily Rob.... can't be too careful with the value of stuff we all have in our workshops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 Just found what looks like a cool add-on! About half way down the page a guy is using 'ScanAnything' from Sheetcam to scan a coke logo using his plasma cutter along with a USB microscope. http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10905 The software is here http://www.sheetcam.com/Scanything/index And this is one of the recommended microscopes http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2MP-USB-Digital-Microscope-Camera-Magnifier-video-Endoscope-Camera-UK-/201001739345?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Lab_Equipment_ET&hash=item2ecca32451 What use is it? Copying brackets - or potentially, so long as you mount it up right and paint the edges white, you could potentially use it to make engine / gearbox adaptor plates! Once you have the scans - you can mate them in CAD with bolt holes common to both plates, cut the plates, bolt them together and you have an adaptor which should be a perfect fit! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 This is my first 'real world' job for the plasma table: It's related to the request for broken Angle Grinders. I'll post up a photo of the bits once I've cut them to show how cool a thing a CNC Plasma is! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 Is this for the Maker Faire? I like the set of initials to add to the project Imagine cutting that all out by hand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 Great find! That looks very very good. I was given a touch probe, and was about to start making the mounding bracket for it, but I'd definitely consider that one, need to read through the writeups a little more. I've had a little problem with my mating flanges for the gearbox to transfer box in that I drew the via triangulation basically using a vernier, both digital and (2x) manual, then instead of sending them off for manufacture (thought I'd see id a laser cutter price was not too bad, and it wasn't given it would give higher accuracy than a plasma), I printed them 1:1, and cut the patterns out and over laid them, and it wasn't quite perfect (one or two bolt holes on each flanged surface did not align). Remeasured, and redrew, now I'm about 90% accurate I believe (as in it's as close as I can get but given I'm still cutting printed paper out with scissors and a bell punch for the holes, there may be some minor inaccuracy) --- alignment is key I believe to longevity at maybe 700 Hp / 650 lb ft (at the engine when I'm done). Note, this was more an interest to see what was out there that may be more accurate than triangulation with a vernier, the cynical would say nothing, but I thought it was worth a shot given modern technology, digital cameras and modern paper scanners etc. I've tried using autodesk 123D catch, which is basically taking a load of pictures and then stiching them together, and converting the 3D model into a cad file, and the accuracy was not very good I've tried plonking the flanged faces on an A3 scanner and it's noticeable that a scanner suffers from angular distortion which basically makes the object slightly oblong when scanned. (worth a short), Hence final plan was to try a Mach3 touch scanner probe + programe, options were that I found: Copycat Mach3 (free addon) Probe It! Mach3 Wizzard ($30USD) [note there are some you tube vids showing start to finish sequence) So I wonder how accurate the one Si found is ? (need to do a bit of research...) Totally different side topic (I know we discussed it before .... Ohmic sensors ....), seen one on fleebay, (saw it last year but the sellers been on "holiday" since September... (nice job if you can get it), looks impressive, not necessary but it may be worth considering if you were interested in going into production, hence thought I'd list what I'd found in case someone wanted some guidance... hypertherm ad thermal dynamics sell tips for direct connection to one. youtube link of it working dropbox link of the manual ebay auction / listing sellers website For the money it looks interesting, but you probably want to note that I think there may be sanctions on what gets imported from the russian federation, not sure what may happen if you did order it, but if anyone was thinking about one there do seem to be cost effective options. It is recommended that you still use a limit switch or magnetic torch holder as has been pointed out before rust and paint and other metal coating affect them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 How about a video of cutting that sheet Simon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 Is this for the Maker Faire? I like the set of initials to add to the project Maybe! I'll video it cutting (once I've got the settings right!) It will take 13 mins to cut - so you may not get the whole thing, just edited highlights! Having read through all the Hypertherm literature, they recommend cutting at max current and faster than I thought to get the cleanest cut. I've re-tuned the stepper motors so now I get a reliable 5000mm/min speed. These are going to cut at 2489mm/min @ 40A - which I hope will give me nice clean cuts. Watch this space as they say! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 That scan add on looks really handy! That said one of the hot wire cutters at work came with a laser scanner and turntable so it could do 3d and I thought that'll be great.... 3 years on I still haven't plugged it in :/ I'm still envious of people having their own machine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 Don't know how the duty cycle works, i.e. you don't want to be cutting 25m at 5m/min, with a 40% duty cycle (4min/10min), and the thermal trip activates part way through a cut... It would be better to break the job up with a pause then maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 Well, I've just finished cutting the bits. Duty cycle didn't seem to be an issue. I hope the 'ark ok' input would just stop the cut until the plasma is happy again? Either way, 14 mins at 40A didn't seem to worry it! It is quite hot though - so I probably wouldn't go much longer than that! Video is uploading at the moment. In the mean time, here are some photos to entertain you while we wait.... These are the parts as cut: Cleaned up: And finally a view of the edge to see cut quality: Video of cutting is here: I got bored videoing after a couple of mins - but you get the idea! Observations! The Proma Torch Height control does not like thin sheet! Anything less than 6mm and it occasionally decides to wind the torch up to 80mm or so, stopping the cut! I've found a few other references to this - guess it still needs playing with! Touch down works OK though. If I had my time over, probably wouldn't buy it. Material warping is quite a big issue as it cuts - need to find a better cut order to minimise this. It did a better job than I expected on the small holes. Top surface looks pretty circular, but bottom is elongated a little. Probably need to make sure none of the jets in the torch are blocked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 What thickness of material is that Si? Any idea why the Proma THC could get confused? The logic of how it should work seems pretty simple ...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 I'm cutting 3mm. I found a post on some forum where someone said it didn't work on thin plate - so you (and I) cannot take this as gospel but it seems to be born out in practice. 10mm plate and it worked perfectly. My guess is that for some reason thin plate at 1.5mm cut height shows too low a voltage sometimes. With the Proma set to 120v, it keeps winding the torch up until its too high to cut, it still hasn't reached the set voltage and stops! I wonder if thin plate causes the arc to effectively stop sometimes - then the pilot arc cuts in. It sees the pilot as a low voltage then winds up until the arc to the plate cannot re-ignite? Maybe it just needs playing with some more! I stopped bothering when I had it cutting nicely without THC but I'll go back to it another day when I'm bored! Si 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Just an observation Si - you appear to be burning through on the cut line, then when through feeding around. You'd maybe get a better finish burning through in the scrap and then feeding out to the cut line. Perhaps doesn't matter with the bits you're cutting, but I can quite clearly see where you've started some of the cuts. It's just like milling, you never plunger a cutter on the cut line and then feed, always get the depth off the cut line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Looks like it left an "ugly" mark every time a piece dropped out. Maybe you need some more support slats? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Depends what you are planning on producing, are you after artistic pieces? or are you after parts that are going to be mig'd together and covered in paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 It is using lead in / out in the scrap material. The problem (I know how to fix it now) is you can only set one length of lead in/out per part. If you have small holes, the lead must fit within the hole - but it makes it equally short everywhere else. The solution is to separate all the holes into a different layer, cut that with short leads then cut everything else with long lead ins - it's a lot of hassle though. The positioning of the supports wasn't great - but it worked ok. the parts are pretty accurate - within about +/-0.25mm. Previously I cut some squares as end caps for box section. As the box was only 1.5mm wall, they had to be accurate - and came out within +/-0.05mm. One of my friends suggested I'm cutting too fast. Although the plasma has plenty of power to cut at that speed - because the arc comes from rectified mains, it switches on and off 100 times a second. The ripples in the sides of the cut correspond to 100Hz at the speed it was moving. Slow it down and the ripples get closer together & less pronounced - though you get more dross on the underside. I'm still at the learning how to use it stage and I guess all these things will get clearer! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 The laser cutters I used will only tie themselves down to +-0.25mm so I think that's commendable for a home made plasma cutter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 I don't know how your CAM program works, but with Mastercam as a mill, I'd set them all up as different blocks, and you can select or de-select the function to create a toolchange or not. If not, then it just carries on to the next without stopping. That way you can select different lead ins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 I'm using SheetCAM - but am just finding all the ins & outs of it. There may be a simple option I've yet to discover! For free software however, it's exceptionally good! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 Don't know if I've listed this before, may be helpful to someone with a CNC plasma Sheet metal software: http://www.tyharness.co.uk/ licence info and costs here (seems reasonable): http://www.shareit.com/product.html?cart=1&productid=300368941&backlink=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tyharness.co.uk%2Fsheetmetal%2F Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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