JST Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 i am after a little advice on this one. a neighbour has asked me about an issue they have. i have not seen the vehicle yet. vehicle is a 200tdi, HiCap 110 with 136k on it. they have had it about 18mths now. on purchase documents showed a new clutch (plate, cover plate, fork) had been fitted 6mths prior. After several months use, clutch was slipping. A new one was fitted, however it was noted the old friction plate was fine, although history in 6mths prior to purchase was not know so new one and cover plate and fork fitted anyway. All was good for 3mths or so, then started to slip. Since then master cyclinder & slave have been replaced. each time it works for 3-4mths then slips again. first use of the day it is fine and works as it should do but after long usage (ie country road driving for hour or so) it slips. Ok again next day. bite point rises with usage to the stage you could 'touch the pedal with a feather' (i quote) and it would actuate the clutch. my thoughts are incorrectly adjusted pedal and the pedal is moving whilst driving and pressurising the system. then on longer drivers (the hour plus or so) due to a bit of slippage throughout the heat generated increase slippage. Having said the garage he uses cant sort it! My suggestion will be to set it up as per the wksp man at correct pedal height with correct play. But assuming that does not solve it - any more ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Land rover clutch and "feather" in one sentence... either its not been fixed properly each time its been opened or, there has been consecutive component failures of different parts... or the common denominator being the flywheel... could it have become glazed or something... but that wouldn't explain the clutch bite point moving, unless the friction plate is wearing itself away... curious failures... as its 2nd hand story I'd be a little sceptical of some of the finer points of the story... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 the common denominator being the flywheel... could it have become glazed or something... dunno, could it be flywheel linked? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 but that wouldn't explain the clutch bite point moving, unless the friction plate is wearing itself away.. or the bite point moves as it needs less movement to generate the required pressur ein the hydraulics as the system is 'self pressurising' ws muy thoughts. the self pressurisings either through usage or pedal depressions or from movement when driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 I suspect the master cylinder adjustment is off, preventing the fluid from returning the the reservoir when the pedal is released. As the engine warms up and heat is transferred to the hydraulic fluid via the slave cylinder, the fluid may be expanding enough to partially apply the release mechanism and allow the clutch to slip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 I suspect the master cylinder adjustment is off, preventing the fluid from returning the the reservoir when the pedal is released. As the engine warms up and heat is transferred to the hydraulic fluid via the slave cylinder, the fluid may be expanding enough to partially apply the release mechanism and allow the clutch to slip. so its missing the 1.5mm play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 You can't adjust the master cylinder can you? I thought it was the pedal adjustment in relation to the piston actuator... i.e it just moves the pedal height as opposed to the actualy actuator sweep distance... Faulty parts? - maybe could be a self pressurisation issue... wouldn't be the first time new parts have failed out the box... especially if its of dubious supply... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 so its missing the 1.5mm play. I think it could just be that. It costs nothing more than a couple of minutes to try it before buying new hydraulic parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Set the pedal height as per the WM, I had a similar fault a while ago, after resetting the pedal, all was good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Set the pedal height as suggested, but still check that the pushrod to the piston has a little free play. 1.5mm might be a little much, but there needs to be a little to ensure the mc piston retracts fully to allow full depressurisation and reservoir flow back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Definitely check the master-cylinder pushrod clearance - you should be able to get hold of the pedal and pull it up about 1/2 inch before it hits the stop. As another test - when the clutch-slip problem occurs, open the bleed nipple on the slave-cylinder - if you get a squirt of fluid then you have a problem with the master-cylinder not 'clearing' properly. In which case you need to adjust the stop-bolt on the clutch m/c housing - if that doesnt fix it you'll need to take the m/cylinder out and check the fitted length of the pushrod/clevis-fork-to-front-face-of-cylinder distance, adjusting by slackening the locknut on the pushrod and screwing the clevis fork along the pushrod to get the right distance then re-lock the nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Change the jump hose. Caused this problem for me............. Its GOT to be a hydraulic problem IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 I'm also inclined to go with push rod / pedal adjustment in the first instance having suffered the same slipping newish clutch problem leaving a toll booth in France. Caused by an incompetent buffoon (moi ? surely not ... ) incorrectly adjusting the nuts on the push rod. IIRC James, you and the others waited for me at the next Aire HTH Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 Mo - we did indeed await your rejoing. hose has already been changed. will see truck tomorrow and set pedal as per WM. thank you for suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Interesting, need to look into this as its a new topic for me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 just had a look at it. lock stop was not touching anything, pedal was set 80mm above the floor and therefore nuts holding the 'lever' end of the pedal were at the end of the thread closest to the piston. have set it as per the WSM Will see how we go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 should be fine now provided there are no other unseen/unknown faults. lots of places have no idea about the pedal adjustment & stop bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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