Hendrik Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Hello, looking to replace the very limited monroe shocks with long travel shocks on our competition 90. I'm looking for good shock's with good off road behaviour. I have been looking on the internet and found some solutions: - The Oram adjustable gas shocks from the "orange guys" - The piggy bag shocks from equipe 4x4 - OME shocks - pro comp shocks other brands, tips, do and don'ts? thanks a lot Hendrik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Ohlins, Fox, both rebuildable (check at this money if FULLY rebuildable) Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 How about these??? A nice shock and not bad at arround £150 a shot: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Yep Looked at these when doing my mods - nice but : Wrong ends (rear you need loop pin...... front Pin Pin) .....and these come as loop loop Add an adapter .....and that adds extra 'length', extra 'length' means loss of travel as compression is extended etc Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 I looked at (I think) King shocks at Billing. Possibly from Tomcat. They were better value than Fox and very similar spec. I'd be wary of adjustable shocks. Most shocks have multiple sets of pressure sensitive valves. These give a greater bandwidth of damping - i.e. they can damp effectively over a wide range of spring rates and vehicle mass. Although you might think this is fixed, something like carrying a passanger or dual/variable rate springs can make a difference. Adjustable shocks by nature only have a single, adjustable valve and although you can set them up to be perfect for one set of circumstances, it requires a lot of effort to get them right. Wideband multi valve shocks may never be perfect, but most of the time will be closer to correct than variable. (I've tried several of both by the way). After a lot of shock buying, I've ended up with +5 procomp on the back - and I rate them pretty highly. Particularly at £35 a pop. Remote reservoir types are good for racing where the additional cooling is beneficial but for trialing or challenges, a waste. They are very bling though! If that's your thing then go for it! David (Llama 4x4) on here has some shocks which are very similar to ProComp, but with a few good design tweaks. Once (if) he gets in some longer ones - I'll buy some of them for the front! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_LLAMA4x4 Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 David (Llama 4x4) on here has some shocks which are very similar to ProComp, but with a few good design tweaks. Once (if) he gets in some longer ones - I'll buy some of them for the front!Si The ship has landed!!!!!!! The ship docked on Friday of last week and subject to customs ( not normally an issue ) the shocks should be with me on wed/thur of this week. This shipment contaons some very long ( 26.5" ) extended shocks giving about 11.5" of travel and all on a shock with standard pin / pin front mountings! The retail is £39.95 each including vat. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendrik Posted October 30, 2006 Author Share Posted October 30, 2006 what kind of shocks are these Jez? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendrik Posted October 30, 2006 Author Share Posted October 30, 2006 another question, how can you measure or estimate the travel you want from a shock? My vehicle now has 2"+ Springs (+ qt front and rear trail arms and relocation cones at the rear) and I'm running 9.00 x 16 Fedima's (looking to replace them by 35x11.5R16 ET's). Hendrik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 another question, how can you measure or estimate the travel you want from a shock? My vehicle now has 2"+ Springs (+ qt front and rear trail arms and relocation cones at the rear) and I'm running 9.00 x 16 Fedima's (looking to replace them by 35x11.5R16 ET's). Hendrik Ok, FWIW this is what I did One axle at a time, remove 1 spring on one side and the shock from the base at the other side. , then jack it up (side with no spring) and get it to the bump stop, the other side is now "Hanging". See iof the hanguing side will drop any more (force it !), then have a lookie at the fully extended shocker that has been discionnected at the base, the gap between the end of the shocker and where the axle is now is in simple terms the LENGTH you'll need. Now, on the other side, have a lookie at the compressed shocker. If this compressed before you got to the shocker then the compressed overall length is too long, if you are lucky you'll still see a big of rod in the shocker, measure this and this is the Minimum COMPRESSED length you must have. Often you will find as you go up in shocker overall length the canister gets bigger, you have to balance overall length to compressed length, and this takes some thought and midnight oil burning on tech specs (if you can get them) Oooh - and not all shock manufactuers use the same datum points for full extend compressed etc so check ! If the compressed length is such that its too long then you have to alter the shock mounts to accomodate them, but - you then loose the overall length as the shock to shock has extended, so you have to then fit even longer to gain it back, and hopefully have a new canister that isn't longer...hence my comment about fitting a Loop Loop to the front / rear when you want pin pin or loop pin, you loose the space you desperately are trying to gain with conversion brackets... HTH Lots of fun and time... Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendrik Posted October 30, 2006 Author Share Posted October 30, 2006 Ok, FWIW this is what I didOne axle at a time, remove 1 spring on one side and the shock from the base at the other side. , then jack it up (side with no spring) and get it to the bump stop, the other side is now "Hanging". HTH Lots of fun and time... Nige Great, I'm going to test this on wednesday (bankholiday over here in Belgium) and keep you posted about the things we discover... Hendrik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendrik Posted October 31, 2006 Author Share Posted October 31, 2006 what are the opinions on this setup? http://maxtraction.co.uk/ what kind of springs and shock's do they use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 They use their own progressive springs and procomp shocks. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 I've found Procomp ES9000 shocks to be great, but your limited to 15" stroke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendrik Posted November 1, 2006 Author Share Posted November 1, 2006 Been measuring today and have found following things: Max length out at the rear 75 cm (measured from top fixation point to the bottom point) Max length in at the rear 40 cm (same as above) Max length out at the front 65 cm (measured from the top of the turret to the bottom fixation point) Max length in at the front 40 cm (same as above) so how can I now find a good shock? thx Hendrik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 You've been busy. So you need a 35cm (or about 15") travel shocks for the rear and 25cm or about 10" travel for the front. So pick your favourite shocks with that (or a little more) travel and find out their extended lengths (inc. any adapters needed so to convert eyes to pin). For the rear it is likely to be more that 75cm so you'll need to move the top mounting up to accomodate the extra length while you may find you need to shortedn the turrets at the front (or get a sligthly longer shock). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_LLAMA4x4 Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 Been measuring today and have found following things:Max length out at the rear 75 cm (measured from top fixation point to the bottom point) Max length in at the rear 40 cm (same as above) Max length out at the front 65 cm (measured from the top of the turret to the bottom fixation point) Max length in at the front 40 cm (same as above) so how can I now find a good shock? thx Hendrik The front is easy- I have Rough Country units on the shelf that fit the extended / compressed length almost to the cm... The rear is going to be more awkward: A shock that is that long open will struggle to get that short compressed.... you will either need to drop the top bracket or space the bumpstops, either way you will lose some travel over what you have measured. You will probably also struggle to get a shock that long with an eye top / pin bottom ( as per a LR ). It is far more likely to be an eye / eye type fitting..... At the front you could get a lot better than what you have now simply by having 2" higher turrets and using an 11.5" travel shock. I have all the bits on the shelf - turrets and shocks At the rear you need to look at your mountings again. The way i have chosen to go is to use the same shock as on the front ( 1 spare fits all round ) and a new upper mounting to adjust to the correct length and the pin / pin type fixing. This will give plenty enough travel to necessitate a wide angle prop ( on a 90 ) and cranked arms and probably a wide angle ballgoing from X-eng..... Hope this is of some help David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Turner Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 The ship has landed!!!!!!! The ship docked on Friday of last week and subject to customs ( not normally an issue ) the shocks should be with me on wed/thur of this week. This shipment contaons some very long ( 26.5" ) extended shocks giving about 11.5" of travel and all on a shock with standard pin / pin front mountings! The retail is £39.95 each including vat. David David. I'll take a set of 4 please. B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 David, Have you got a spec sheet of Lengths fuully extended, fully closed length of canister and type of end mounting you can ping me if I e-mail you plus prices etc If so PM me your e-mail dear if not measure the longest ones you have ? Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_LLAMA4x4 Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 David,Have you got a spec sheet of Lengths fuully extended, fully closed length of canister and type of end mounting you can ping me if I e-mail you plus prices etc If so PM me your e-mail dear if not measure the longest ones you have ? Nige I have a .pdf of an application guide / spec sheet > email me on david@llama4x4.co.uk and I could send it to you - most of it is all about Jeep / Dodge / GMC etc. though The longest I have with LR style pin / pin are: measured from base of pin ( where it joins to the body ) to base of pin are 26.5" open and 15" closed The longest I have on this shipment are eye / eye with 5/8" bushes and measured centre of eye to centre of eye are 29.82" open down to 17.67" closed They are all the same price @ £39.95 each inc boots, bushes and VAT Hope these specs are of some help... David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 David, Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Hendrik - this season Petals back end is Pro-comp ES9000, 36" jobs on an Eye/Eye fitment, running a standard Rover A frame ball joint, nothing groovey just a lot of measuring, cycling of suspension and heavy safey margins. No johnny joints/heim joints or bob marley joints used .... only odd parts are the trailing arms which we make, they're a little but tough B) as for next year........... bwahahahahahahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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