Puffernutter Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Just had the P38 Mk2 fail on split gaiters on both front ball joints. What is involved in changing the gaiters on both front balljoints (not track rod ends!) Some threads (elsewhere, can't find anything here!) I have read talk about special tooling required and upwards of £1000/side at a main stealer! Is this kit all required for just changing the gaiter? Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Never did the gaiter, replaced them once though. Put the car on a two-post lift, moved the 20-ton press into the wheelwell, and pressed the balljoints out. Took a fair bit of swearing, but not a whole lot of "special" tooling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 you can get the gaiters for about a fiver for 5 on ebay. (all landrovers use the same size) its a case of buy a balljoint splitter and a big hammer, its not that hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Just in case we are at cross purpose- cv gaiter or ball joint cover as there is a fair bit of difference in the job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 Ball joint unfortunately! I'm going to have to remove them anyway just to replace the gaiter/boot, so any recommendations on which tool to use? Any experience with this one - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mechanics-Automotive-10pc-Ball-Joint-Removal-Service-Tool-Kit-Car-Van-Garage-New-/140870063432?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20cc829548? or http://tinyurl.com/lra3xwt Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Ball joints is fortunate I think. Unless I'm missing something ( not unusual) you need nothing more than a socket and hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 Track rod end is fortunate! Ball joint seems to require removal of brake caliper, disk, ABS sensor, half shaft...... Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 Anything else I will need to replace/refurbish? It has been suggested that the CV gaitor may suffer in the process! Also as I'm going through all this pain to replace the bottom joint, should I replace the top whilst everything is apart? Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Ah yeah, just googled it, that looks a bit more of a job than a tre :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 I've just done this on my disco 2, with that kit from that seller! Also because of an MOT failure Buy replacement nuts. The bottom ball joint nut especially will have been exposed to all the salt and corrosion thrown up by the wheels, so will require Mr Angry Grinder to remove. The nuts are M14x1.5 and M16x1.5, so NOT stocked by DIY places Lube the thread on the 'clamp' Torque required to press out ball joints will be many, many grunts. I used 3/4" breaker bar with scaf-pole extension In case you haven't seen it, have a read here and here. Don't worry if you don't parler français (or even ozzie!), the pictures will help. I took the halfshaft/wheel hub out as one assembly, which meant for belt and braces I needed to replace the oil seal. For the sake of £4.50...that said I don't know if the P38 has the same arrangement. Careful doing above, I think I graunched the ABS sensor cable so now have ABS light showing on dash (sigh). Hope that helps Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 Thanks for that. Very helpful. Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 If it's only gaiters you don't have to remove the ball joints, you can buy the rubber boots from eurocarparts. It's a pain of a job, stripping the hub is simple enough just time consuming but once thats done, it's a case of seperating the joints and changing the boots before reassembling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 Again, good advice, but if the gaiters are split, there may be rubbish in there and if I have to go to all the pain to get the hubs out, I may as well change the ball oints complete! Save me coming back in 12 or 24 months and doing the job again. The tool was £45 so not too bad.... Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 I see your point and would normally agree, but i will be amazed if the tool works. I've done a few now and every one i've had to resort to burning the ball joints out with the oxy acetelene. Good luck!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 I see your point and would normally agree, but i will be amazed if the tool works. I've done a few now and every one i've had to resort to burning the ball joints out with the oxy acetelene. Good luck!! As I said above, the tool worked for me, albeit with nipsy-clenching amounts of torque needing to be applied to it. The thread appeared not to show any signs of wear afterwards. Like most DIYers, I can't justify an oxyacetylene setup. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 I'll let you all know what happens! Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 Day 1 update! One side completed. Took a lot longer than I expected. Most things were actually straight forward and splitting the hub carrier was a bit scary, but I didn't break anything! In terms of time taken, it was about 3 hours to get to the stage that the ball-joints were removed (that £45 kit on ebay did what was required (I needed a 3/4" breaker bar plus a scaffolding pole)) but it worked! The ABS sensor was a bit scary, but came out with a bit of tugging - does it still work? - I'll find out after I've done the other side! 10 minutes to replace the lower ball joint 90 minutes to replace the upper ball joint - I could not get it started square, it kept on going sideways, took a long time to get that in. When I did, probably no more than an hour to put everything back. I'll report on how the other side goes tomorrow! Cheers Peter 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 I had a bad starting A frame BJ once, used a round file on the side it was tight on and hanging up and opened it up a few thou just to help it in, worked a treat along with a smear of copper slip in the hole to try and make getting it back out less of a ball ache. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 Thanks, I'll try that if the other side want to play hardball tomorrow, although experience tell me that I will have a different set of problems! Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 I struggled with getting the bottom one to go in square. In my case it was because, once one is in place, there's nowhere for the screw of the clamp to go unless it's out to the side. Still live and learn. You've certainly taken the belt, braces, and bit-of-string approach to this job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 Started with some trepidation this morning! What was I going to find, what new tricks was she going to pull? 4 hours from start to finish! Took it for a run and even the ABS light went off. Also, quite pleased that our local motor factors does boots for Track Rod Ends (yes I split the ones already fitted getting them off) and at only £3.00 each, they save all the messing about with the tracking. So, a result, thanks for all your help and advice. That kit from ebay did the stuff very well, but I made up a couple of special spaces to fit the range rover and Udderly Offroad, maybe I was lucky, but if you put the suspension on highest, remove the top ball joint first, then the screw fits through the hole where the top ball joint was to remove the lower one and it also means that if you replace them in reverse order, you can have the G clamp square. Now having seen the state on one of my front calipers, that's next for replacement! Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Useful info thanks Puffernutter for detailing. Just done rear brakes including bleeding. Disco2 shares common parts so don't be surprised if you can find cheaper by looking for disco parts with mods. My example on other post was rear mud shields, £80 P38 or £22 disco2 with cutting some metal from axle tube profile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Thanks for updating, i'm really pleased the tool worked for you (i must say i'm surprised but maybe ive been unlucky so far and had some particularly rusted in ones) i'll definitely be ordering one next time i have to do them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 I should add that if you are doing the job in the Wiltshire/Dorset or Somerset area, you are welcome to borrow it. Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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