jimconline Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 I may be wrong about the parts not being genuine Land Rover as, you're right, there does not seem to be an LR designation. I can say that the parts I took out have nowhere near the quality feel of the parts, taken from LR packaging that was ordered from a reputable supplier, that I have in my hands to put back in. Could be LR has changed OEM suppliers. I put the timing pin into the slot of the flywheel and inserted the pin into the injection pump (slight friction). I think I may be okay leaving the injection pump alone. I was able to remove the crankshaft gear fairly easily. I gave it a good spray with WD40, let it sit overnight, and built a simple tool (see photo) anticipating it would slide off without great difficulty. For once, I was right. I shall replace it with a new one. I now have no doubts where the oil was coming from (see photo). Can't see the o-ring that's supposed to be in there. Will look closer once I have some food in me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimconline Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 Came to a bit of a halt today trying to wrestle out the old crankshaft oil seal. That sucker has been in there a long time. Tried prying with screwdriver, without a hint of movement. Tried a screw but couldn’t penetrate the hardened rubber (even thin, sharp-pointed screws). Drilled one hole, got a screw part way in before the rubber started to crack. I did yank on this and got a bit of movement before the screw popped out. Given up for the day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimconline Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 Got both front crankshaft seals out. Am waiting for a replacement for the inner one (ERR4575) to arrive. Does the outside or inside edge of the outer seal (ERR7143) sit flush with the timing cover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 I can say that the parts I took out have nowhere near the quality feel of the parts, taken from LR packaging that was ordered from a reputable supplier, that I have in my hands to put back in. Could be LR has changed OEM suppliers.I would think that just means those garages used cheap pattern parts in their rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 The outer seal is just a dust seal, but it still sits the same way around as if was holding oil in, so the lip points back into the timing case. It has to be that way around, otherwise the crank pulley wouldn't fit through the seal after refitting the timing cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimconline Posted April 9, 2015 Author Share Posted April 9, 2015 On the home stretch, I think. The front inner crank seal arrived yesterday and it went in smoothly today (tapped it in using a 2" PVC drain pipe T connector). New crankshaft gear, idler and tension pulley installed. Am having trouble stretching the new timing belt on. Am soooooooooooooo close but just can't seem to get enough to slide over the last few teeth on the FIP gear (have loosened the three bolts; timing pin in place). Stoically held off prying it. Any suggestions would be welcomed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 i had that problem recently. turned out the belt was about 2mm too short.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimconline Posted April 9, 2015 Author Share Posted April 9, 2015 The belt is a genuine Land Rover ERR1092. Should be the right size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Have you had a read of -- http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=22319 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimconline Posted April 9, 2015 Author Share Posted April 9, 2015 Yes, I've used that well-written piece, along with an excellent video from Land Rover Toolbox Videos about changing the timing belt for a 300tdi, the Land Rover Workshop Manual for the year of my vehicle (1996), and the astute advice I have received in this thread. The belt is very close to fitting; just can't seem to stretch it enough to get it settled into the last couple of teeth. Will put on some coffee, invite my neighbour over, and see if we can wrestle it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 when I do my 200tdi belt, I fit it over the pulleys then offer up the tensioner to get it to push the belt into the right lay, then do the actually tensioning of the belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimconline Posted April 9, 2015 Author Share Posted April 9, 2015 Got it. Seems it required more fiddling than wrestling. Wrapped the belt around the crank gear and stuffed a rag between the outside of the belt and the housing to make sure the belt was snug against the teeth and gave me as much of the belt as possible. Centered the pump sprocket and jiggled the belt in. Now to tension it, check timing, close things up, remember to remove the flywheel timing pin, and turn the key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 be back on the road soon then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimconline Posted April 12, 2015 Author Share Posted April 12, 2015 Got everything back together and the Tortoise fired right up. Seems to run quieter and smoother—wishful thinking?. Took it for a half hour run. Was a joy to have back on the road. When I returned there was no oil visible through the drain hole. Given the poor workmanship I found, it's definitely time I did a complete service. I am off in a couple of weeks for a few thousand kilometre journey. When I get back I shall get started. Thanks for all the help. Sure appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 excellent result Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimconline Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 I may have made a mistake going after oil leaks. I have resealed the oil sump and replaced front crank seals. Now there is not a drip. In over 12 years the Tortoise has never been so clean. What have I done? Well, almost not a drip. I have discovered a very slow one at the bottom of the bell housing. From photo, any thoughts about the source? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 May just be blown back from your previous leaks Jim. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimconline Posted April 18, 2015 Author Share Posted April 18, 2015 Good point, Mo. Shall give it more mileage and see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Well done glad you solved your issues. Of course your chassis will rust now as the oil leaks would protect it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Given its location, I'd agree with the old oil view. That bolt doesn't go intot he block but an external bracket, so there is no way for sump oil to leak out through that bolt hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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