Simon_CSK Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 Was under the car this morning sorting various bits and bobs and one of the things I wanted to sort was the rear Anderson connector on my Disco. When I looked at the connection the positive connector was gummed up and half of it eaten away. It has been in place for 2 years but rarely used. What caused it? Water? I had siliconed the rear to keep moisture out and it always had a cap to cover it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrr47 Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 Was the negative the same? Is the Anderson connected live all the time? Mk 3 Cortina front indicators used to corrode very quickly due to the bulb being earthed through indicator metal frame. The electric running through the metal had the same effect as water/rust, something to do with the metal losing an electron atom, not sure. Perhaps this is what has happened to your connector if it's live all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 Was the negative the same? Is the Anderson connected live all the time? Mk 3 Cortina front indicators used to corrode very quickly due to the bulb being earthed through indicator metal frame. The electric running through the metal had the same effect as water/rust, something to do with the metal losing an electron atom, not sure. Perhaps this is what has happened to your connector if it's live all the time. Yes Constant live negative un-affected Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 Electolytic corrosion. If its live all the time and damp, this will happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 Electolytic corrosion. If its live all the time and damp, this will happen. So why has the front one not gone the same way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 So why has the front one not gone the same way? I would guess that the front is LESS well sealed. I say LESS because sealing something like that 100% is near impossible, The sealing traps water just as well as it keeps it out. Maybe on the front, the moisture could evaporate / drain better than on the back. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 Its easy to be wise after the event and I'm assuming the connector is outside of the vehicle, Its not an unexpected result. With a permanent supply and a semi sealed environment, get it dirty so there is a current path then a regular spray with damp salty water, kick the whole thing of with the curing process of the acid in the silicon sealer and its pretty much what you would expect to see. A lot of people put unswitched / unprotected Anderson connectors out in the weather which isn’t great but also its worth thinking about what happens in a traffic collision. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 Its easy to be wise after the event and I'm assuming the connector is outside of the vehicle, Its not an unexpected result. With a permanent supply and a semi sealed environment, get it dirty so there is a current path then a regular spray with damp salty water, kick the whole thing of with the curing process of the acid in the silicon sealer and its pretty much what you would expect to see. A lot of people put unswitched / unprotected Anderson connectors out in the weather which isn’t great but also its worth thinking about what happens in a traffic collision. Made me think and when I get a chance I will add an relay. Would 100amps do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 Made me think and when I get a chance I will add an relay. Would 100amps do it? A relay big enough to jump start something is a big contactor and quite expensive, I use an isolator key switch mounted before any wires go through the bulkhead / battery box. That might work out a bit cheaper if its practical. A pull wire to actuate the switch if you need to disconnect in a hurry. Thankfully most jump starts only take a few seconds cranking and if you let your vehicle charge the flat battery for e few minutes you drop the current demand down a lot. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 The big brass body 250amp isolator switch would be better than a expensive contactor, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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