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Chicken Drumstick

Any good guides for 200Tdi conversions?

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My 88 is under going some major work, part of this is swapping in a 200Tdi. I think I've got the basics covered, as we've Tdi'd my brothers 2.5TD 90 previously. But would be good to read up some guides on a Series, specifically on what is done with the battery, rad & intercooler, glow system, fuel tank, air box etc.

Engine is from a Disco. So I'm going to clock the turbo (turn it), and drill and tap the flywheel housing/block stiffener. I'm keeping the stock Series gearbox and transfer box.

Thanks.

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With regards to the battery it went under the passengers seat on mine, and I used the battery leads off the donor disco they were just the right lengths

I used the disco rad and intercooler in a stepped arrangement and turned the intercooler upside down. Pipework is a mishmash of all sorts.

Glow plugs I left disconnected, never needed them in about 6 years (every day car)

Fuel tank I added a return line to and used the original, having drained the petrol and left open to evaporate for a day or so.

My airborne is not very neatly wedged in the side of the passengers wing (I put defender inner wings in )

Clutch wise, use a series friction plate for the correct splane count, and a heavy duty discovery pressure plate, otherwise you will quickly find out that a series pressure plate can't take the torque. All lr clutches are of the 9.5 inch flavour so mix and match well

You will also need an idler pulley to replace the pas pump if you are staying manual steering

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Thanks.

Do you have any pics of your intercooler setup? I'm torn between buying a modded one from Steve Parkers, that goes in front of the rad, although requires you to hack away the front panel to make it fit. Or see if I can squeeze in the intercooler in the stock location next to the rad, as per a Defender/Disco.

Something like this:

tdi_641.jpg

I'm going p38a PAS box (got all the bits now), so will have a little more room with the old relay moved. I know the Series front end won't give the best air flow, but would probably be sufficient for my needs. But not sure if there will be enough room. So just trying to think of options.

Re: battery.

I'm not near my 88 at the mo. Was the tray deep enough, or does it need modding to fit the battery? I can't recall if a Defender tray is the same or not.

Thanks.

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Don't need to do anything to the turbo in an 88 chassis, only a 109. You'd be better off with a 300 turbo and manifold though, much much much much easier to plumb up. Did it with The 109 (because of the chassis clearance issues), wish I'd done it with the 88....this will be happening when she gets her new chassis

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The Glencoyne site is a good place to start but if you've already done one into a Defender you should be able to work your way around.

My setup is in a SWB with lightweight bodywork so the engine bay is a slightly different shape than yours but I dropped the whole rad & intercooler assembly in tight up against a trimmed front panel and also trimmed the inner wings to allow it to drop down, I also did a P38 steering at the same time much like you are planning to do so did away with the relay and linkages giving a bit more room on the right hand side.

I didn't clock my turbo again choosing to trim the inner wing around the pipework.

I'm running an early Defender air box with some green & black eBay hose, most of the other hoses are standard Discovery. Oil cooler pipes are extended using some brass fittings at the rad end.

Downpipe is an eBay special joined to a steve parker back box by a length of flexi.

Batteries are under the passengers seat in a home made box.

Glow plugs are wired in properly using that part of the Disco loom - it's very easy to do.

A fuel return was run back to the tank - most tanks have a blanking plate over the space for the return.

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post-1774-0-76918500-1434136483_thumb.jpgpost-1774-0-76918500-1434136483_thumb.jpgThis is what I have done towards fitting a 200TDI motor into my SII. It just needs to start well and be reliable.I don't need all the power so the intercooler wont get fitted,I turned the compressor housing of the turbo to point towards the inlet manifold.I then cut a hole in the manifold to match and welded the cut off inlet stub onto the new hole to match.I decided to lag the pipe as its quite close to the exhaust.I didn't want an idler or PAS, so I made a bracket to mount the alternator directly.I'm using a standard LR belt,cant remember the number,but its on the belt.

My thinking is that an otherwise standard swb series II managed my firewood and fun duties for 15 years on a very tired 2,25 petrol.The 200TDI without intercooler will do the job easily,I don't need it to do big mileages,so even an overdrive is not needed.

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I put a lot of information and photos on my blog. It's a Discovery 200 for a 109, so you wouldn't need to do all the same work, particularly the Defender manifolds and turbo swap. If you are considering fitting RR/90 axles at any time, you will need to make an arched custom engine mount on the right hand side as Defender mounts foul the prop shaft front UJ on braking or spring compression. Be mindful of the space behind the oil cooler pipes if you fit the intercooler and rad in-line rather than staggered if you ever plan to fit PAS (another mod I documented).

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Unfortunately, if you want to use a p38a pas box then you can't use the radiator full width layout. As on the image above, it sits the full width of the slam panel, and you need the top of the drivers side chassis rail clear for the pas box to sit there.

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Ok here is mine

Its a def 200, tdi 200 rad moved into the rad panel, td5 intercooler, battery went in the rear tub, but mine is a 109. Glow system hooked up and functional. Aircleaner is a 200 can but intake is out trough the bonnet up to the snorkle. I wanted to keep the inset front so lots of head scratching went into it, also have a 4 bolt PS system hidden under the intercooler and behind the front panel.

Pics

post-116-0-35471800-1434308731_thumb.jpg

PIC00002.jpg

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Unfortunately, if you want to use a p38a pas box then you can't use the radiator full width layout. As on the image above, it sits the full width of the slam panel, and you need the top of the drivers side chassis rail clear for the pas box to sit there.

Unless you trim the inner wing to let the rad assembly sit far enough to the left as I did above.

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Also not a problem with a Stage 1 front end. There are always ways and means... :)

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