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Post-1980 Series rear axle


ejparrott

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While waiting for someone to make a collection I'm perusing the parts catalogue with a view to getting the rear discs sorted out on my 88, having also this morning sorted out my various callipers.

I have in stock a pair of early 110 disc braked Salisbury calliper brackets, but I haven't got a spare 88" axle to hand.

Stub shafts are different front to rear I know, the rear's wrap over the axle flange, the front's fit in the swivel housing. Hubs however are the same front and rear.

Are the bolt pitches on the stub axles the same does anyone know? And does anyone know if the axle flanges front and rear are the same? I have a spare front axle casing and if they are the same I can try the calliper brackets against it to see if they'll fit.

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I've just tried the calliper bracket against the front axle flange for the swivel ball and we're half a hole out. Flange hole 4.25", calliper bracket holes 115mm. If the flanges are the same then I'll be having to make new special brackets then.

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Front axle flange is bigger dia than the rear isn't it? I seem to remember playing with this. I'm just sorting the rear 80 inch Salisbury axle with series III stub axles and defender drum brakes hubs.

You need to play with spacing if I remember rightly to get the caliper Central over the disk if you use a front disk brake early hub.

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There are threads on here about this, most are about Defender Salisbury axles but it applies to series axles as the measurements are basically the same.

My rear axle conversion was made with late series stub axles and RRC hubs, discs and calipers. This resulted in a 7mm (I think) spacer between the stub axle and axle tube. There is a way of getting it right if you use the correct parts that are listed in one of the threads.

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Thanks Jon, I only look at this forum so I hadn't picked up on what you'd done. Google searches seem to turn up so much dross I tend to just do a forum search. Pity the pics aren't there any more.

Sid I don't want to change out my 6-stud drive flanges so using Series hubs is going to be the only option. I'd like to make all new hubs for it, and for the fronts, still working on a few details though.

The work continues!

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Sals and rover rear axle flanges are the same. Red winches sell a caliper bracket set for £50 a pair

I've just looked at these.....let's just say I'm not impressed at all!!!

The OEM bolt-on calliper bracket uses 4 of the stub axle bolts to hold a 2-pot calliper on, and I was under the impression the rear callipers should always be 2-pot otherwise you run the risk of buggering up the braking bias with 4-pot fronts.

The Red winches bracket uses only 3 of the stub axle bolts, and they intend for it to be used with 4-pot callipers..... More braking force on less bolts???? Not for me ta!! There's a reason LR used 4 bolts not three, if they could have used 3 they would have, savings per vehicle would be minimal, but over the thousands produced, enough to make a difference.

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Hmmm, I'd suspect the 3 bolt thing doesn't matter so much, but reading the instructions, the washers are there to pack the bracket from the caliper -I can't see this being a good idea at all.... why not make the bracket to the correct dimensions in the first place instead of some hicky bodge to get it right...

Agree on the 4-pot calipers, don't think it is really understood, or for the speed that 'off road only' vehicles do, it really matters... I'm thinking though, that a 2-pot and a 4-pot may have the same mounting points?

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Lol I had a look when they came out for a trials car but never went any further. Didn't really see the engineering just saw they sold them cheaper than LR.

LR one you have to play with spacing unless you use 300 stubs and hubs. I ripped off my 10 inch brakes from my Detroit 4.7:1 110 rear axle ( nit of a mix and match) I want to get 35 or 40 spline side gears for the locker and make some decent stubs and hubs. Should work out cheaper even with HD shafts and totally strong. But on the back burner for a year or so. Pushing hard on the trials motor and then a few months off of modifying, making messing with anything non std!!!

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They're not that much cheaper. I've got a set of Britpart calliper brackets here already for one of them, they're actually not that bad.

I know about the spacing issues but it's not a problem for me. Changing stubs and hubs is not an option, 6-bolt drive flanges must remain, I will not consider swapping to 5-bolt.

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Ed, when I converted my Salisbury rear axle to discs, I used 110 rear discs with Discovery callipers (all round). That combination needed spacing between the stub axle flange and the calliper bracket, though I can't remember if it was 6 or 8mm. Either way, I think that will give you the opportunity to sort the PCD issue at the same time by having a partial collar of that offset thickness, rotating the calliper bracket around a little so that the bracket retaining bolts sit into tapped holes between the stub axle bolt holes. As I recall, the fixing holes on the brackets are on lugs, not a continuous inside radius, so all bolt heads for the spacer to axle clear the bracket, and the bolts securing the bracket to the spacer needn't penetrate the axle flange or stub axle flange if cut to length.

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I've got some discovery 300 callipers ready to rebuild from David. I've got a pair of spacers courtesy of Patrick too, he sent the cad file over and I got a pair cut in 6mm I think. Despite the fact I might have position issues, I might perhaps look at using 90 rear discs, that way she'd have the same discs front and rear - need to do some more research on that though. For the two 109's I have sets of Salisbury rear callipers rear for rebuild also.

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That might work on the Rover axle. 90/Disco rear discs don't work for the Salisbury axle as the calliper brackets put the 90/Discovery callipers too far inboard; you'd have to mill them thinner to move the callipers outboard. That's why most end up with the odd combination of Disco rear callipers, 90/Disco front/110 rear discs (same disc) and 90/110 front hubs on Salisbury disc conversions. The good news is that it all fits well once you add a spacer between bracket and axle flange. The disc diameter and thickness is a bit big for the smaller calliper, but it all clears. You might have to occasionally spin the disc over with the wheel off to remove thick rust with a file or grinder, but even that is unlikely. The brake system from a Discovery/RRC is well suited to the 109 - the max gross weight is very similar.

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  • 3 weeks later...

That might work on the Rover axle. 90/Disco rear discs don't work for the Salisbury axle as the calliper brackets put the 90/Discovery callipers too far inboard; you'd have to mill them thinner to move the callipers outboard. That's why most end up with the odd combination of Disco rear callipers, 90/Disco front/110 rear discs (same disc) and 90/110 front hubs on Salisbury disc conversions. The good news is that it all fits well once you add a spacer between bracket and axle flange. The disc diameter and thickness is a bit big for the smaller calliper, but it all clears. You might have to occasionally spin the disc over with the wheel off to remove thick rust with a file or grinder, but even that is unlikely. The brake system from a Discovery/RRC is well suited to the 109 - the max gross weight is very similar.

This is the same for my series axle with RRC hubs and front discs.

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