I've got a heck of a problem, and a question for guys with the Tor

[oopsmybad]

Hey guys, new here, I've tried some other forums and talked to some pretty smart guys on some of them, and with 5 ASE's including engine electronics and advanced diagnosis, I'm no slouch myself. The problem is that I don't work at a shop anymore, I live in a remote location (definitely no Rover specialty shops around), and I can't tear my Disco apart because it's my only car right now, and I need it every day.

When it's cold and wet outside, especially if it's rained over night, when I first start the engine, it wont rev up over ~1500 rpm. if i manage to have gone one whole day without driving, i can't even lift the rpm off idle. It acts like the injectors are straight up getting cut off, popping out the intake and coughing. once the engine warms up fully (but longer than it takes to go into closed loop), at some point within the next 10 minutes or so, suddenly I can raise the rpm to ~3000, and then in a few more minutes, it phantom rev limiter goes away completely. It did this when I bought it last december, but winter was short and mild, and I had another car so it wasn't a big deal. But it didn't do this one time between february last year and december when the monsoon around here started in earnest.

The first thing I checked was fuel pressure- it's only 1-2 psi under the spec, and I've seen a lot of cars run a lot better than this with worse. No vacuum leaks, either.

So here I am now trying to figure it out, I have the RAVE download, access to Alldata (which actually seems to be correct in a lot of ways the rave manual is wrong, for example, number and colors of wires at the air meter), the Torque app, and a Kiwi bluetooth OBD2 adapter. My air meter (it came with an aftermarket no-namer) has showed dead in the water at .3g/s, even when the car was running fine all summer, so I didn't really know what to make of this. I recently got a lowish mile used unit off ebay, and it at least shows a changing value, although it's an impossible value- .05g/s at idle, .3g/s cruising at 40.

I've yet to see anybody ever complaining about Torque not reading correct values for the MAF signal on a GEMS Rover, but I thought it worth asking here, or if I've just had the bad luck of getting a faulty air meter from ebay.

I've installed a new OES crank sensor and TPS, the crank sensor just for fun after an old retired dealership service writer told me that he keeps a spare in his glove box, and the TPS because it did act a bit funny and would hiccup occasionally.Plugs and wires are NGK with less than 15k on each. Oxygen sensors may be original, but they graph out ok, a little slow on the graph but they cycle thru enough of the voltage range that I can't imagine them being the culprit- especially when most of the issue occurs during the open loop period anyway. The CTS tests ok for resistance, and the thermostat seems to be working fine, if slightly on the cool sice, maxing out at about 78*C.

I've checked for power at the MAF and checked the signal wire from MAF to ECU and both are fine, the third wire...well i'm not sure where it goes, looks like it ties in with the injectors somehow iirc? I haven't looked in a week or two and it wasn't very clear.

I'm about to buy a junker of a daily driver and mega squirt this stupid thing, almost everywhere I've looked I've seen a lot of people without much confidence in the Lucas ECU, anyway, and I know that trying a used ECU is a no-no unless I can find somebody local who can reset the immobilizer to work with it.

Anyway, any suggestions are helpful at this point.

[boaterboy]

......and your question is?

[Bowie69]

Ditto, what do you want to know?

[Nigelw]

Reading between the lines, he has a rev restriction on start up, but it clears after 10minsMAFMAF changed, lambda sensors checked, thermostat checked but running @ 78° plugs and leads good,TPS changed, crank sensor changed.

I'm not sure if it is a D1 or D2? I never saw any OBD port on my 3.9 efi so this is beyond me.

[Arjan]

Yes..... Bit unclear but think DII.

Sounds like when cold the thing won't rev.

Only computer in my LR's are inside the SatNav - sorry.

[simonr]

My first thought, after I'd figured out roughly what engine you were talking about was the cold start enrichment - which I'm guessing, like the Range Rovers, is a separate injector. Worth checking it's getting power etc

Whether it has a cold start injector or it's implemented through the regular injectors, my best guess is the engine temperature sensor, or just possibly Manifold Air Temperature Sensor on the basis that it clears when the engine heats up. If it makes the ECU think it's hotter than it is, it doesn't bother with the cold start - so under fuels until the engine is warm.

Si

[Ally V8]

He is talking about GEMS, which was fitted to NAS spec D1's, never DII's. From his description and live values I'd say he has swopped one dead maf for another dead maf. Any Gems motor needs at least 22-25Kg/Hr at idle and 90+ at 3000 rpm in neutral. He can do the math to convert to g/s.

[FridgeFreezer]

Since he's already brought it up, just megasquirt it and have done, it's quicker