Scooby Jim Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 Got oil in the dash pots? Yes, brand new. Its the timing mark being out, then the carbs needing final tweaking. Does the video work in the link I posed to my Facebook?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 This is my timing mark and its bent, is this a standard part as I'm assuming not as it looks a bit Heath Robinson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 I think that is actually standard, I forget, not had a Vee-belt V8 for a long while now, but it does look familiar. does it have a raised stiffener along the curved bit? hard to see in photo. If so, then yes it is stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 Yeah I think its does, but its deffo in the wrong position, which would make a difference. Once I have made a piston stop I'll mark up where tdc is. My thinking is that if I leave the crank pulley on the second mark I make, then when I go in-between I'll need to bend this marker to where the mid point is. That way I can mark TDC on the pulley, and also determine where that guide should be. Does that sound about right?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Jim, I made a Heath Robinson solution at the weeken that was actually quite successful.. I knocked the ceramic centre out of a spark plug, then glued a short piece of pipe (short enough for the plug socket to fit over). Luckily, I had a long bit of see through hose that is a snug fit onto the pipe, popped the other end into a plastic bottle half filled with oil. Clip the plastic pipe to the raised bonnet so there is a good hump between the bottle and bore. Key bit - make sure the bottle can vent air out. (I didn't on my first attempt and pressure tested the system...) As you turn the crank pulley with a socket, the pipe will blow bubbles through the oil, then as it reaches TDC, the bubbles slow down. As soon as the piston starts to descend, it wants to suck oil out of the bottle. Sounds rough, but if you watch the behaviour of the oil, you'll get a good, accurate point. Use oil just in case some gets sucked too far up the pipe and heads into the bore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrovernuts Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 That looks like the right timing pointer, but as already said a tad bent! Just tried to watch video on my phone but could not hear anything, but holiday inn internet that is just pants. One thing I would say is that if the carbs have been set to standard then it will run like a bag of s..t unless you have the standard air filter on. Even changing to K and N type requires a needle change, so put the standard air filters back on and try it. Toby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 This is as close to standard as I can get atm, as the Rover p6 style air assembly is not complete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 Once I have got her running better, I will take her to get setup on a r/r, as then that way I can get the correct Needle fitted.Any suggestions as to what needle would be best?? I'm 99% sure it has BAK fitted (standard).Found this site so I can check against what I have now.http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t125/JamesAllen1982/LANDY/WP_20160604_19_33_01_Pro__highres.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrovernuts Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 I am sure if you google it you will get some suggestions. I seem to remember using BBG needles when I had carbs, but depends entirely on the engine. I used to have boxes of needles, but gave them away when I went injection. I would say your set up needs different needles to standard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 Looking at the comparison site then from a look (not knowing really what the hell I am looking at), would show that BBW BDR needles would be what to look into?? They are both very similar to the BAK, but run richer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 Bowie, made this last night. How far out would the bolt have to go to make contact with the piston near the top??I'm planning on fitting a rubber boot over the end of the bolt, so that it doesn't damage the piston inadvertently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Beautiful Think mine is about 3/4", maybe You'd do well to damage the piston, just be gentle 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Beautiful Think mine is about 3/4", maybe You'd do well to damage the piston, just be gentle Was going to wrap some electrical tape around the end tbh, atleast with the plugs removed makes turning it over a damn bit easier Would this plan work?? Insert stopper and turn engine normally till it stops, and make a mark where the timing bracket is now, then reverse the engine back to the stopper and again make a mark. Now when she is on the second stopper bend the timing bracket to the third mark, halfway between the two previous marks, this giving true TDC. Atleast this way she should be able to be setup timing wise, meaning I can get cracking with the carbs. I fully understand that I probably will have to change the needle at some point. This tool will again come in handy for when I eventually go megasquirt/jolt (for the spark only), but thats a looooong way off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrycol Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 I have just been through this process for my V8 as part of the process of setting up my MS trigger wheel. Do the process of working out TDC a few times - the first one I did was different but all the others were the same and provided a consistent result. Your tool looks nicer than mine but it did work. You will be surprised how far the bolt screws into the combustion chamber as the spark plug hole has a very shallow angle. To protect the end I used heat shrink tube which worked well. See here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=97568&hl= PS - your timing pointer seems bend a little too far to the right - maybe 3 degrees worth. Garry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Yes, that'll work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Got some bits through today, shame I'm working nights for next 4 days Plugs, leads, Vacuum advance, and dizzy cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoggyN Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 I wouldn't wrap anything around your piston stop tool. Sod's law will dictate that, whatever you use, it will fall off inside the cylinder. Unless you turn the engine over on the starter or use a starting handle, you will,have to work hard to damage a piston with a bare bolt. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 No worries, was just going to use heatshrink on the end, just to be on the safe side. I wouldn't go too hard on it, but my luck would be messing something up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrovernuts Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 While all the above will do no harm at all, I still think the issue is needle related. Standard needles will not give the right mixture if you have fitted freer flowing air filters. Toby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted June 17, 2016 Author Share Posted June 17, 2016 While all the above will do no harm at all, I still think the issue is needle related. Standard needles will not give the right mixture if you have fitted freer flowing air filters. Toby I totally agree, but I have to get her running right before I can get to the stage of selecting the right needle. What was confusing was that it was running ok but as soon as I tried to get her to near TDC she got worse and worse, to the stage just slightly advanced of TDC, she coughed died and backfired through the carb. This to me is totally down to ignition timing and not needle selection. Once I have got her setup so that she idles and revs freely (the BAK needle will just make her lean for now), and then I can take her to get setup properly with a larger needle. She is NOT on the road atm, hasn't for at least 10 years, so I am fighting against a dodgy bodger previous owner, and years of not running (I'm not sure she has ever ran correctly), all whilst learning. The last Carb I worked on was a Pierburg 2E3, and that was 1997 lol, so been a while, and I've never worked on SU's. I have to source an exhaust still before I can do that, but see what I can get sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted June 17, 2016 Author Share Posted June 17, 2016 This is the site I found for comparison of SU needles. http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted August 16, 2016 Author Share Posted August 16, 2016 Is this anything to worry about??My compression test results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 I would have said no, as there is very little variance between them, and there will be some variance. What is the engine compression ratio (if standard it'll be stamped next to the drip stick port on the block), expect this for the lower compression engines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted August 16, 2016 Author Share Posted August 16, 2016 I would have said no, as there is very little variance between them, and there will be some variance. What is the engine compression ratio (if standard it'll be stamped next to the drip stick port on the block), expect this for the lower compression engines? 9.35:1 the higher compression engine, have been told that it should be around 150+psi?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 Yeah, I'd expect the higher compression to be higher... but it depends on wear too... Not read the whole post (sorry)... late to the party... Tell me something, with the distributor cap off, can you move the distributor rotor back and forth with very little effort? It should rotate just not easily as it is sprung, with counter weights. Where are you roughly (on phone, can't see your location) Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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