quattro Posted July 31, 2016 Author Share Posted July 31, 2016 Cheers Fridge Freezer I have gone with your photo and my last diagram, or exactly opposite to the wiring diagram. I have spent most of the day crimping, soldering, cutting, stripping, etc. Hope to have him fired up by next weekend, you never know your luck Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Yep, I should have explained it simpler, it is exactly opposite the wiring diagram and the numbers on the plug. So if you just wire the 1 to the 3 and the 3 to the 1 you should be sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 So are we saying Nige can't be trusted with the crayons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 I'm saying nuthin' Just wiring up the relays and have wired in fuse holders, but does anyone know what size of fuse is required on the main relay, and the fuel pump relay? Cheers all Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 This is my scheme, a slight tweak to Nige's diagram: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 on fridges suggestion I have run a fused switched wire with only a 2A fuse (FF suggested 3A but I couldn't get one) to run the following and it seems to work fine -> ECU power, PWM (Bosch Extra Air valve) and EDIS power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted August 3, 2016 Author Share Posted August 3, 2016 hmmmm My fuel pump relay runs the fuel pump, lambda and coils, and the main relay runs injectors, EDIS and ECU. I'll bung in a 20W fuse in both, that should sort it Cheers again, waiting for a rumbling sound now Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 What's a 20W fuse? The risk of fusing the ECU + EDIS 12v from a big fuse is the brains only need milliamps to function so any fault will toast the ECU/EDIS before the fuse blows. All the action (injector/coil current) is ground-switched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted August 3, 2016 Author Share Posted August 3, 2016 20A I'm following Nige's wiring diagram so I'll still do that, but I can drop a small fuse in the blue/yellow before it splits, 3A should do it. My main concern is that I have no idea how much power the individual components use. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 4, 2016 Share Posted August 4, 2016 Well I'm running the exact setup posted in that diagram with the same fuse values with no issues. I'd guess different fuel pumps etc. will draw different amounts but the failure mode of those is likely to be a fairly solid short so you've got a bit of leeway on fuses. The ECU brains are a lot more delicate, TBH a transistor can destroy itself before a fuse has even begun to think about blowing but at least low value fuses prevent PCB traces being vaporised and reduce collateral damage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted August 22, 2016 Author Share Posted August 22, 2016 Quick update All wiring is now done, everything connected where it should be, but not wrapped as yet - will post up some piccies later. Throttle bracket designed, manufactured and fitted - piccies later. Petrol in tank, pump working. One question, why is the throttle spring so heavy? I've may have to look at my contraption to try and increase the leverage, but does the spring return have to be so heavy? It is a lot more powerful than the Weber that it's replacing. It doesn't start by the way, but I can sort that as soon as I find my electric tester thingummy. Cheers all Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted August 22, 2016 Author Share Posted August 22, 2016 I managed to get the wiring finished. Main power for this fuel pump relay comes from the battery, then it feeds the fuel pump, coil packs and lambda. Fuel pipe is also connected, so the work is finished in the boot area. The D37 plug was not easy, as the wires I was attaching are actually bigger than the holes they need to fit into. So I decided to cut them into a point so I could at least get some of it located. Made sure I slid a piece of heatshrink onto all of the wires then started soldering until I started making mistakes, then went indoors . Next day, did some more, until all were done. I don't think I'll ever get a job doing this, but they are all solid and heatshrinked, so shouldn't get any shorts. The instructions say to twist the wires together on the EDIS and don't fix them properly until the engine runs. Also, don't wrap any of the loom until the engine runs, just in case it doesn't. Not very tidy, but I can tidy it all later. Engine bay all wired up and ready. I am not happy with the silicone elbow, it just doesn't look right and I really should have measured that air filter, it is a little on the large size. So, all wired up, petrol in the tank, all fuel pipes connected and secure, charged battery, keys in ignition It didn't start PS anyone know what these bits are? They were in the kit but I have no idea what they are for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 mine also didn't start first try, I turned the VR sensor wires around and she fired first go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 It works It won't stop, but it does work I may have that little diode thingummy in the wrong wire, but it works. Can start wrapping now. I tried linking to a video, but the site won't let me Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Before wrapping, check all the readings in Megatune/Tunerstudio all make sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Well done! Now the fun of tuning begins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 Well done! Now the fun of tuning begins Indeed, I haven't got a laptop with a two row serial port though, mine is three row I do have an adaptor which I hope will work but as I have left the disc at work (printed out the instruction manual) I can't load it tonight. I have four wires from the alternator, two large brown/white ones which go to the shunt, a brown/black one which goes to the warning light, and a small brown one which goes to a connection under the drivers side floor (Battery/Starter motor,etc). I put the diode in the brown/black warning light wire, and it just sits there and ticks over all by itself with the ignition key in my pocket! So, I have found elsewhere (can't find it now though) that it should go into the 'sensor wire' which is often brown. So I have rewired it tonight and fitted it into the brown wire; now it stops when I turn the ignition off. I might just try it without this diode, just to check. I have made up another small bracket to adjust the leverage of the throttle pedal. Now I can use it without putting both feet onto it So, progress has been made Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Your three row serial port is actually a VGA connector, for a monitor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 Your three row serial port is actually a VGA connector, for a monitor. I'm not good with computers, if you don't put petrol in it, I don't know how it works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 That's OK Sounds to me like you need a USB to serial adapter, did you get one in the kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 None in the kit, no. I bought one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222023140746?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Will give it a go tonight, and see what I can get out of the ol' beasty. Problem is, the MOT has run out now, so I'll need it reliable enough to get to an MOT station and back before I can do any road testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 Ok, so the ECU will NOT talk to the 'puter. I have wired everything up to the best of my ability, and checked it all several times now. I plug the laptop into the ECU via the adaptor in my last post, and start the megatune software. I get 8 dials up, but it says the selected communication port (COM 1) could not be opened, then tells me how to fix it, i.e. try the other ports. I tried all of them up to 25 and none of them work? (I change the post, then click 'test' and every one says, "no response." I tried it with the Ignition on and off, still doesn't connect. The lights on the ECU do not light up when I turn the ignition on, is this correct? There has to be power to the ECU as the fuel pump works for a few seconds, then stops, which I believe is right. Also, the engine starts There are 2 lights on the ECO with the engine running. Any advice? Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 It'll be your USB to serial adaptor. Do you know how to check in device manager on the computer to see whether the drivers are installed correctly and what number it's been given? If not, go into control panel, administration tools, computer management and you'll find Device Manager. In there, you'll find "Ports (com and lpt)". What do you have listed? If you can't find that, do you have anything listed in "unknown devices"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 It's under "other devices" and is just called a "USB Serial convertor" however when you click on it, it says the drivers for this device are not installed (Code 28) So, I have asked it to update driver and it is searching on line for one - been a while doing it though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 That'll be the problem Leave it be, it might manage to get the drivers. Post back if not and I'll see what I can do. Do you have the cd that came with the converter handy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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