tuko Posted September 17, 2015 Author Share Posted September 17, 2015 Yes the original speedo. I think the number you want to know is 1376 but here is a picture of the speedo head: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 That's the one....I'll have a look when mine comes home again....I only get to see it in the dark or at weekends! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Very interesting read this... I'll be collecting a 200 Tdi & drivetrain in November so reading all this, very tempted to use the gearbox aswell. How about the front axle - no CV's required ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted September 17, 2015 Author Share Posted September 17, 2015 Arjan, I would have thought that you'd remember that my landy is a hybrid built on a coil sprung chassis. I have a Defender 110 front axle. ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted September 25, 2015 Author Share Posted September 25, 2015 The vibration in the drive line has been annoying. I thought at first it had to do with the angle of the shorter rear propshaft but with that removed I still had the vibration. While under the landy I saw that the transmission had settled it's mounts and a small portion was actually against the removable crossmember. Readjusted the mounts to gain clearance at the crossmember and still a vibration. As I wrote earlier I didn't think that the vibration was in the front propshaft as it was still relative straight with the UJ angles. But I removed it anyways, low and behold no vibrations! The UJ at the t-case output was the culprit. It appears that when it was assembled it was pressed too tightly together which resulted in the base plastic shim being crushed, then releasing fragments that were found in the needle bearings. Replaced with GKN original there is no longer any vibrations in the drive line. I fired off an email to NWP and they have already sent off a replacement UJ. Thumbs up to those guys! Also I've done a few long runs into the closes major city to us (40 miles round trip) and the landy goes so nice on the highway. The engine is turning over at 2400rpm @ 90kph (55mph) which is lower that I had with the series transmission. It feels that the engine is running at it's sweet spot now as I can push the peddle and she responds directly plus the engine doesn't sound as if it's working hard to keep everything in motion. A plus is that after a tank full it looks that my fuel economy has improved. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 Good news. I need to have a look at my 88's rear prop, I've got a vibration on that now, think it might be a UJ, front prop isn't fitted. Had a look at my 109's speedo, it's a 1408, so the blue gear might well not be spot on with mine. Will probably try it anyway, it's not like it's expensive or hard to change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted September 27, 2015 Author Share Posted September 27, 2015 Living with a hybrid there's no instructions or any information to follow with ownership. What I'm referring to is the drive line. Now that I've sorted the vibration from the front propshaft I've been under the landy looking at the rear propshaft angle. Using my cell phone the angle is at 22 degrees, which is high in my eyes. I have the wide angle joints on the new propshafts, but they are just 33 degrees. It seems to me that I will run into binding issues the first time on the trails this coming spring. My landy has a total of 4" of lift, combination of spring spacers and longer springs. So yesterday I removed 2" spacers from under the springs, lowering the landy but also reducing the angle at the rear propshaft. After lowering the landy the angle now stands at 18 degrees. I've been told my an old mechanic that the ideal number is 15 degrees, can anyone shed light on this figure or is 18 degrees going to be OK for me? I've been thinking that to reduce the rear axle travel by installing limiter straps, would this be a good idea or not? Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 It'd be a bit costly, but could you fit a prop with double cardan joints at each end? The other option would be to fit a prop with a double cardan at the transmission end and rotate the axle 10 degrees or so to reduce the rear UJ angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 Nick, The rear prop is so short that a double cardan joint is simply impractical. The other suggestion of rotating the rear axle has been floating around my head for a bit now. I did find a Disco tdi rear axle in Southern Sweden, but once the guy knew I wanted it he added 50% the price from the norm that he charges and I had to remove it myself. So the hunt is on for a rear axle that I can rotate or clock all the mounts. The landy drives perfectly fine now with the vibration sorted but I've not tried it offroad and it's there that I believe the clocked rear axle will shine. Also I'd like to one day lift the landy back to the 4" lift I had, it looked so much better with that height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 I run the rear axle nose up, like the front. There is virtually no prop angle. I am running radius arms though, which means the axle rotates the right way on bump and extension. Problem with the a frame setup is that the axle doesn't rotate this way. You still can get the prop angles correct (using the w style rather than the Z style), but it wont be correct on anything other than rideheight. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 Daan, wouldn't a D2 rear axle do the same thing possibly working better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 The endresult would be the same with regards to propangles. Bear in mind that the radius arm is longer than the standard rear arm, meaning that the fual tank and mount are very tight for space. even more with d2 arms. My prop angle: rear prop from a standard s3, lift around 1" Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 The endresult would be the same with regards to propangles. Bear in mind that the radius arm is longer than the standard rear arm, meaning that the fual tank and mount are very tight for space. even more with d2 arms. My prop angle: rear prop from a standard s3, lift around 1" Daan That prop angle is far better then mine. I have a standard coil setup so I'm wondering if I did clock the rear axle say about 10mm, will I have clock the center A arm joint or would a wide angle joint be sufficient? Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 Excusex... Used to be blond... I'll get to me corner and cry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 [quote name="tuko" post="833737" timestamp="1444733200" The landy drives perfectly fine now with the vibration sorted but I've not tried it offroad and it's there that I believe the clocked rear axle will shine. Also I'd like to one day lift the landy back to the 4" lift I had, it looked so much better with that height. If you lift it again you will have to lift the trailer!, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 Hahahaha too funny Jason, I've not added bigger tires yet. Nice seeing that your following my exploits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 That prop angle is far better then mine. I have a standard coil setup so I'm wondering if I did clock the rear axle say about 10mm, will I have clock the center A arm joint or would a wide angle joint be sufficient? Todd. Problem is that you have to maintain the same u/j angle at the box end and the diff end. so you can either run the diff horizontal (z config) or point it upwards so far that the angle of both u/js is the same (w config, like the front axle). Just move the nose up 10 mm is going to introduce a vibration, so it would have to be more than that. Maybe try a longer a-frame (move the balljoint holder one hole and see what that does, before you start fabricating). Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seriebil.dk Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 Next I moved on to the front cross member which I've read that it needs to be "scalloped" for the front propshaft. Not really knowing how much I'm to take I decided that I'll cut out 5cm depth on the front of the cross member and at the rear I stayed parallel with the weld. With removing a fair amount of metal I used 10mm thick C channel which I hope will add strength to this location once it was welded in. How wide is the C-channel you put in ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 20, 2016 Author Share Posted May 20, 2016 How wide is the C-channel you put in ? 10 cm with the front prop centered. I've already did a 4 day event with Småland Traxx and the prop's gave no issues offroad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seriebil.dk Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 HI Tuko Reading this up again for my own 109" build, I was wondering: is your LT77 a Standard LT77 or a LT77S ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted November 22, 2016 Author Share Posted November 22, 2016 It's the standard LT77 which is a far cry better than the series 4 speed that it replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seriebil.dk Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 I guess a lt77S would give you better rpm in fifth gear, a friend had the same experience after fitting a 200 TDI with LT77, LT230 1.2 ratio and series diffs i his 109" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted December 3, 2016 Author Share Posted December 3, 2016 (edited) I changed the gearing in my lt230 to 1.003 which lowered the rev's at 90kmh to 2400rpm. Fuel economy unloaded is constantly under 1L/10km. Edited December 3, 2016 by tuko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 That's very good Todd, what's that 30 mpg roughly ? I can't get anything like that out of mine ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 Mo I'd like to think I'm in the 30mpg range, even when the landy is fully loaded fuel economy isn't affected by that much. My big trip this summer to and around Nordkapp, Norway we drove a total of 7200km (approx 4450 miles) in 18 days. Fully loaded with everything to keep her comfy including the rooftop tent our fuel economy was 1.03L/10km. I was very pleased to say the least. /Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.