Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 I've been stripping diffs all F day for me to do the diff Pegging to, but I have 3 x of those gastly 3 bolt type where you need a special tool, or home made bodgerroo..... which I haven't has time to think about.... let alone make so was wondering Anyone know what the genuine special tool part number is / looks like / where to get one cheapest from / how HAHAHAHA£HAHHA Much £s wise they iz ? Or do I just have to make one grumble grumble Help Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 these 4 sheets are the Discovery rear diff special tools. text extract with suppliers contact details from my RAVE cd. SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS The use of approved special service tools is important. They are essential if service operations are to be carried out efficiently, and safely. Where special tools are specified, only these tools should be used to avoid the possibility of personal injury or damage to the components. Also, the amount of time which they save can be considerable. Special tools bulletins will be issued periodically giving details of new tools as they are introduced. All orders and enquiries from the United Kingdom should be sent direct to Cartool (UK) Ltd. Overseas orders should be placed with the local Cartool distributor, where one exists. Countries where there is no distributor may order direct from: Cartool (UK) Ltd. Unit 3, Sterling Business Park, Brackmills, Northampton, England, NN4 7EX. The tools recommended in this Workshop Manual are listed in an illustrated catalogue, obtainable from: Land Rover Publications, Character Mailing, Heysham Road, Bootle, Merseyside, L70 1JL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sutty_32 Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 Are you talking about the tool to get the centre bit out thats used to locate the rubber donut? If so I found oxy acetylene and a slide hammer will remove Just had to make a little adaptor for the slide hammer. Get it nice and red hot, have your wheatabix and a brew and they'll be done in no time! HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 20, 2010 Author Share Posted November 20, 2010 Erm None of those special tools Ralph are the ones to get the 3 f flange unit orf Anyone / part number piccie ? I feel a bodgerroo session coming on involving V heavy lumps as the Slide hammer I have some sold 125mm solid bar in the workshop, (doesn't everyone )and I'm not afraid to use it Anyone any idea what the thread is that goes in the end for the slide hammer unit ? Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 This flange?White 90 Linky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 Erm None of those special tools Ralph are the ones to get the 3 f flange unit orf Anyone / part number piccie ? I feel a bodgerroo session coming on involving V heavy lumps as the Slide hammer I have some sold 125mm solid bar in the workshop, (doesn't everyone )and I'm not afraid to use it Anyone any idea what the thread is that goes in the end for the slide hammer unit ? Nige those are all the special tools for a discovery rear diff. found this in the text. Remove pinion REAR AXLE DIFFERENTIAL ONLY 7. Remove pinion flange centralizing peg using service tool LRT-51-008. 8. Remove pinion flange nut using service tool LRT-51-003 to restrain flange. 9. Remove pinion complete with bearing and outer bearing shims. 10. Remove pinion flange oil seal and bearing. 11. Using service tool LRT-54-505, remove pinion head bearing track and shim and drive out outer bearing of differential housing. diagram shows a 3 bolt flange being extracted from the pinion. rear diff diagram on lower right of page below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 20, 2010 Author Share Posted November 20, 2010 ah the old LRT-51-008 jobbie I think I may have a cunning plan on the White 90 idea So, how much is a LRT-51-008 I wonder...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 20, 2010 Author Share Posted November 20, 2010 Remover for the Differential Flange Centraliser Ref: LRT-51-008 Description: The tool to remove the centraliser in the rear differential propshaft drive flange. Those fitted with the rubber doughnut joint. Application: Discovery I from approx 1994 to 1999. Price: £144.80 (£170.14 Including VAT at 17.5%) :rofl: Righty Ho then, may the bodgeification process begin now I know what I am making TA All Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 ah the old LRT-51-008 jobbie I think I may have a cunning plan on the White 90 idea So, how much is a LRT-51-008 I wonder...... LookHere 170.14 HereTools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 but you had a fair idea the genuine tool was going to be mega spendy. good luck with the bodgefication job, just don't have a personal injury crisis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iomlt Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 why not just whined in a long threaded bolt and tap the pressed in part with a hammer while screwing in? i have never had a problem removing them by doing this??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road Toad Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 Why dont you just take the special bodgeroo tool home from work? the bodgemetosis has already been done for you! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 Why dont you just take the special bodgeroo tool home from work? the bodgemetosis has already been done for you! Steve Haha was thinking just this You beat me to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 21, 2010 Author Share Posted November 21, 2010 1. I didn't bludy know that the diffs I had gotten hold of some were 3 flange 2. I have seen you, and also myself knackered using the works boderrootastci unit 3. Wondered what the proper tool looked klike 4. Wondered if I made a proper job one copy of the proper one if it would be easier to remove Kin things Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 It's pretty easy to bodge: * Find a sturdy cylinder so the inside fits over the bit that comes out, and is at least 3ish cm high (more is welcome); * One M6 (I think) bolt, an M6 nut, and a sturdy metal plate (a washer will NOT be enough) with a hole for the bolt that fits over the cylinder; * Turn the bolt until you're sure it can't rip out of the thread (so a good few turns in); * Turn the nut until everything is under pressure. Make sure everything lines up. Keep turning the nut; * Pop. I've never really had any trouble doing this, apart from finding those *censored* metal plates somewhere in the shop... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nino Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 Are you talking about the tool to get the centre bit out thats used to locate the rubber donut? If so I found oxy acetylene and a slide hammer will remove Just had to make a little adaptor for the slide hammer. Get it nice and red hot, have your wheatabix and a brew and they'll be done in no time! HTH i found, well a mate found that squirt it full of loose oil(he used duck oil) put a bolt in the end and then use then oxi accetaline to heat it then stand well clear as it makes a bang and the end flies off across the workshop then you have access to the nut that is holding on the flange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outdoor_ian Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 ^^^^^^^ Health and Safety wont be happy but it would make a great youtube clip or cracking story for the A&E section of the LR4x4 book Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 Would a standard 3 leg puller not do this job? Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 24, 2010 Author Share Posted November 24, 2010 Would a standard 3 leg puller not do this job? Jon On the basis mine went bang in a "Quite Spectacular Style" -e I would prob have to say "Non" Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam300Tdi90 Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 I first made a tool as in the tech archive, but the thread in the centre stripped... (well ok the bolt snapped in there) So then I welded a thick piece of threaded bar to the cover and wound it out using large nuts, spacers (small weight lifting weights) and the new 4 bolt flange. Bit o' heat, came off in about 15 mins... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 24, 2010 Author Share Posted November 24, 2010 Right My Solution - Bear in mind I may need to use this a Lot, but its a simple and cheap Tool / Mod to Make The culprit This is the one that broke me puller So, 1st take what was the end of an old flange, shobve in lathe and ream out so that the unit that would normally fit in thier is a loose fit, then machine down the length to the seal shoulder : (having a shotblaster handy helps The machine up a "Bung" to fit in on the shoulder, machined one side to allow the plunger clearance as it comes up, and bore a 8mm hole right through it : Then get diif, and clamp on the old modified Flange plus Plug + long 8mm Bolty Add 1000 Ft Lbs Rattle gun Hit it 15 secs later bungs out used a 12.9 Allen bolt, as Chris said at work these don't like the abuse, so will get a couple of 12.9 Bolts, on this method, its the bolts thats sacrifical should anything shear Thanks for all the input here, without it I would have the above Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 neat solution, well engineered that man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 24, 2010 Author Share Posted November 24, 2010 Plus - Cost = Foxtrot Alpha Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Ian Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Hi Nige Don't want to spoil your moment of glory BUT have a plan B ready, sure as hell the 8mm 12.9 will shear leaving you with a broken thread in the plug, difficult to drill out being a 12.9. How do I know, been there have bloody knuckles to prove it. Regards Ian Ashcroft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 25, 2010 Author Share Posted November 25, 2010 Hi Nige Don't want to spoil your moment of glory BUT have a plan B ready, sure as hell the 8mm 12.9 will shear leaving you with a broken thread in the plug, difficult to drill out being a 12.9. How do I know, been there have bloody knuckles to prove it. Regards Ian Ashcroft Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.