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I see D4x4 sell some of the same type, but do other places sell them and what do people who have used them think of them?

Got mine from D4x4, brilliant; I can drive with only 1 hand on the wheel now. 35" simmex on beadlocks, now with minimal 30-40 mph shake.

Mark

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Back to the original question does anybody apart from Scrap Iron sell them?

I have wobbly Mudzillas and despite half a kilo of lead weights on each front wheel, still got steering shake at 45 and 55.

How much do they cost in the UK anyway?

Edited to say I have found them on D4x4, duh must read post properly in future :rolleyes:

Edited by BogMonster
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At first I used the 0.2g bb gun ceramic beads and now I'm using the counteract ones from Devon 4x4.

The bb ones worked fine on my BFG's and modulars that Si now has, but when I moved to the wolf rims they weren't as effective. It turned out the wolf's need more balancing, local tyre shop put one on their balancer and it said it need 225g in weights! The bb's need speed to spread out and balance so work better at speeds of 45mph. As they are mobile in the tyre they can also be 'bunched' up when you brake on the motorway for example. What this means for a wheel that is out of balance badly is that you can get wheel wobble at 40-50mph and also for a short while after applying brakes heavily.

So I tried the counteract ones from Devon4x4.

080611_0071Medium.jpg

They look very similar to dynabeads and are much smaller than the bb'sn small enough to pass through the valve. They seem to be statically charged and accordng to sales bumf, they spin up to right place to balance and then stick there. This means you don't get that wobble at the lower speeds and after applying the brakes heavily. They seem to work ok on mine. If you change around wheels or put on spare you are supposed to bang the sidewalls to free up beads.

You install them bu putting the bag inside the pack into the wheel..

080611_0078Medium.jpg

Instead of doing this I just split perforation in bag and poured in beads. It's easy and takes about 15mins per wheel to take off, break bead, pour in beads and put back on. Except for me I had to get out earlier bb's..

080611_0076Medium.jpg

I used a couple of wedges each end of wheel and a sheet to catch bb's. It then takes 4-5 turns to get all of the bb's out..

080611_0077Medium.jpg

Anybody want some secondhand bb's for free?? ;);) ..

080611_0080Medium.jpg

How much to put in? For the counteracts you need less, about 6oz per wheel. For bb's I'd use 8oz.

How much? As in cost ;) bb's about £20 to do 5 wheels, counteract's £8 a wheel so £40 in total. Expensive shipping from D44 though at £10, so buy at a show like Billing.

So from my experience bb's work fine for most wheel tyre combinations. If you've got rims that are historically harder to balance or large tyres I'd use the counteracts.

Hope this helps

Steve

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How much? As in cost ;) bb's about £20 to do 5 wheels, counteract's £8 a wheel so £40 in total. Expensive shipping from D44 though at £10, so buy at a show like Billing.

Hope this helps

Steve

Thanks Steve, I need them before Billing so looks like I will have to pay the P&P. So off i go to the D4x4 site.

Paul

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Interesting, thanks Steve

The tyre balancer machine said I needed 255g on one bead of my modulars and 225g on the other so with 480g in total I don't know if 6oz is going to be enough, though I suppose the fact that they are at the outside of the wheel rather than on the rim must make the same weight more effective. One site I looked at said that for 33x13.50-15 you should use 8oz per wheel. If it gets rid of 80% of the shake then I will be OK with that anyway, and I suppose I could always get another packet and split it between the 2 wheels. Only thing I did see somewhere is that you are not supposed to use them in a tyre that has had a plug put in it, so I guess if you get a puncture it is either throw the tyre away or put up with the shake. I think the only thing that would go through a Mudzilla would be big enough to destroy the tyre anyway, like a fencing standard, so it isn't a big deal for me.

I think I will try some just in the fronts, and see what happens. If that works I may get some more for the other wheels. Sent an email to D4x4 to enquire about shipping costs and await a reply...

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Steve

there is tons of info on Pirate

http://www.4x4trailhunters.com/article.php?id=18

they run 8-10oz on Big tyres

so you should be ok.

I'll try counteract if the BBs I had already ordered before readings SteveGs info don't work

but The postage from D4x4 is steep, I ordered two gaskets this week that were £1 each +vat the postage was £1.24

but I was charges over £8 total(bit steep IMHO)

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but The postage from D4x4 is steep, I ordered two gaskets this week that were £1 each +vat the postage was £1.24

but I was charges over £8 total(bit steep IMHO)

Especially as the actual postage on parcel was £5.20, so £4.80 to pack it up :rolleyes: Expensive labour rates you lot charge down there ;);)

Cheers

Steve

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Rema Tip Top (the puncture repair people) have been doing balancing beads way for years. There's goes by the brand name 'Equal'. There's a useful ready reckoner on how much you'll need on the Expedition Exchange website. As has been suggested, any truck tyre outfit will almost certainly have a Rema Tip Top account and will be able to get hold of it if they don't stock it.

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Steve have you found these as effective as traiditional weights?

local tyre place has to balance my tyres every 2 months or so as i keep ripping off the stick on weights! its starting to get pricey :(

If I had someone like Nene Valley tyres on my doorstep, I don't think I'd bother with the beads, as they seem to be able to balance a 33" wheel and tyre combo no problem and the weights stay on.

As I don't, wheel balancing is a pain in the derrier. A few of the local tyre places act like you are a wierdo when ask to get a 33" Mud balanced and say no, god knows what they'd be like if you rolled in on 44's :rolleyes: . ATS were happy to balance them, but I got about 1/2 mile up the bypass and the weights were flying off and hitting the wheel arches.

I then took it to Ebley in Newmarket and after the usual reaction they said yes. But as soon as the put it on the balancer and it said a total of 225g they said no. They also then preceded to lecture me on the fact that my Wolf wheels were unsafe as they don't fit the hub and are only held on by the wheel nuts and that I'll never get them to balance like that :rolleyes::rolleyes:

So after all of that, balancing beads work fine for me. ;) They are not as perfect as a well balanced wheel and tyre combo, but they are convenient for me and you have no worries with weights being knocked off. I wouldn't feel confident enough in saying they would work for all tyre/wheel combinations though so you'd have to try it and see.

As you are having to balance them that often, I'd say give it a try as if it doesn't work you've only lost the cost of one complete balance of all four wheels/tyres.

Cheers

Steve

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I think part of my problems might be down to the fact that the Balco balancer uses the centre hole to locate the wheel not the stud holes but as it is the only balancer in town it wasn't worth arguing about it! Having said that I have balanced alloys on it with no problem before now.

Awaiting an answer from D4x4 anyway :)

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I'm not doubting the science here, I just don't understand it.

If the wheel is off-round, how come the beads don't get thrown to the pointest part of the egg and make the whole situation worse? If it's perfectly round but has an extra weight at one point, how do the beads "know"? At best I can see there'd be a wheel wobble and the beads would lag the hub rotation by 90 degrees, but as soon as they cured the problem they'd settle back to .. well, somewhere else. ??

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I'm not doubting the science here, I just don't understand it.

If the wheel is off-round, how come the beads don't get thrown to the pointest part of the egg and make the whole situation worse? If it's perfectly round but has an extra weight at one point, how do the beads "know"? At best I can see there'd be a wheel wobble and the beads would lag the hub rotation by 90 degrees, but as soon as they cured the problem they'd settle back to .. well, somewhere else. ??

You are thinking the same way I did and I am not fully convinced by the explanation but if it works I will try it...!

An explanation is given on Scrappies' Dynabead site here http://www.dynabeads.co.uk/ about how it is supposed to work but I would also have thought that it would go to the pointy part of the egg :unsure:

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But as soon as the put it on the balancer and it said a total of 225g they said no.

Cheers

Steve

Been there had the tee shirt etc etc.............. when I took the LTB's into my tame fitter, he told me to go and buy some 'round' tyres :lol:

The first one went on the machine (34 x 10.50 x 16) and was showing at well over 200 grams ......................... I had a sudden inspiration and told the fitter to rotate the rim 180 degrees in the tyre......................... this did the trick and it balanced with less than 100 grams.....................I remembered reading somewhere that the balance of steel rims leaves a lot to be desired............. even on expensive rims. If the heavy part of you rim is on the same side as the heavy part of the tyre, then it will be almost impossible to balance.

We had to vary the rim position on all tyes to get the correct sort of balance ....................... it worked well.

However, the new Mudzilla's are 35 X 13.50 X 15 ................ TBH they are not too bad, so I will probably not bother the have them balanced..............

:)

Ian

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