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Range Rover Classic Buying


SteveG

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I've done a few searches and seen some useful posts by Fridge and Mark on what to look for rust wise. What are other main bits to look for.

I've narrowed it down to looking for a M or N soft dash so it's either V8 or 300 TDi. The main rust bits seem to be sills, inner arches, C pillar to wheel arch - any others?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Cheers

Steve

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Steve, if you have found my posts on rusty disco's and rangies, then you should know most of where to look ;) Disco's and rangies are pretty much interchangeable when it comes to rust seemingly...

Essentially, Inner wings and headlight area, sills, boot floor, base of the c-pillar/top of the wheelarch, rear seatbelt mounting points, rear body cross member, A-posts, tailgate (upper and lower) and footwells pretty much covers it.

some places more than others are a pain to deal with, and once you start you end up finding more to do :o

Mechanically I wouldn't have thought you would have much of an issue - ABS systems are a pain to deal with, so I guess you need to make sure the light goes out above 5mph when you first start it - and that it comes on in the first place, so it hasn't been fiddled with, or 'Orange'd' ;) Air suspension can be problematic, but I have never played with it so wouldn't know...

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Lower tailgate, front body mounts (behind lights and rear of front wheel arch), rear AND front inner arches (especially where the washer bottle lives), A-pillar (under the corner or the windscreen and by the upper door hinge).

Think that's about it, basically..... anywhere :P

Good luck finding one mate, I saw a few soft dash recently, when I was looking for my 1991 Rangie, most of them were more rusty than the earlier cars :s

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It's true - we have replaced bits of a 1992 car with good bits from an 83... I think the quality of material really went downhill. I would also be inclined to get an aluminium floored one, but you are talking pre-89 (I think) for that...

What are you planning to do with it steve?

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Mine has varying degrees of rust in all of the above mentioned areas - Mine therefore is 'Normal' :lol:

I have found minor rust/rot in some of the most stupid areas that no other car would normally rot as well: Because the major outer panels are mostly alloy and can be removed and renovated this often tends to mask other hidden horrors behind them as well as underneath the chassis.

There are numerous mud traps, nooks and crannies and the biggest problems stem from owners not keeping the undersides hosed clean.

Open the doors and check the ends above and below the locks for rust - if present it will be coming through from the inside and could indicate the general state of the rest of the vehicle.

They are pretty user-friendly to work on if you have the time and inclination. Even the fuel injection system on the V8 is DIYable with a multi-meter and basic understanding of electrics. If you are not too fussed about the engine I would go for the diesel, not for economy but more for longevity and ease of maintenance.

That said im still enjoying mine although i spend more time under it than in it.

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What are you planning to do with it steve?

School run of course! - No seriously this will be it's main duty. Kate wants to replace the 110 with something that will fit in a multi storey car park, cope when it snows or floods and can take the three kids and their assorted stuff to school.

We've umm'd and arrgh'd about so many new/nearly new ones ranging from Audi 4x4 estates to Freelanders to Touregs etc and none fit the bill of not being a boring SUV, or not just right! ;) You know women.

So for now, it seems the solution is to get a Classic RR and a euro box like the new Punto and then that's available if RR is unreliable or I break the 90 ;) Also Punto etc can be used for long runs, so hence V8 would be ok.

I did the sums and a V8 RR would work out 250 pounds a year more on fuel for the miles that Kate does. If I can get a good TDi I probably will, but if a good V8 comes up that will do too.

Thanks for all the replies, most helpful

Steve

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Soft dash bonnets rot more than earlier vehicles - no idea why but probably lower grade steel....

Agree with the rest of the replies re: typical rot areas (sills, inner wings, rear cross member).

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Steve

One of the dockies at the Marina has a M plate Soft dash, from memory, around 80k miles, in burgundy dark red, with LPG,

think he was looking for around the £1800-1900 mark,, shall i have a word, ??

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it was ok until... "burgundy dark red". The potentially owner has said no to this. Colours that are ok are Dark Blue, Black, Dark Green and Dark Grey. Oh and no sh*t coloured brown leather interior too. ;)

Thanks for the suggestion and offer though Tim.

Cheers

Steve

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Guest mortus

i just got me a poo brown '88 barely any rust on it, i mean its in perfect order apart from some big dents, and its only done 66000 miles . 350 quid with MOT and tax, have a look on ebay mate, theres plenty of em.

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