sweety Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 Hi guys, sorry if this has been covered before At the min I have a Terrano TDI & TBH it has been fantastic on & off road & have spent about £250 max on repairs over the last 2 years but sadly the gearbox is on it's way out after 73K miles so am know thinking of getting a D2 TD5, I've been told about the air suspension can be a prob at times & I read the wiring loam for the injectors can fill up with oil. What should I be looking for ie rust & where, oil leaks, engine & trans probs etc ? as I would hate to buy a dog as getting a Disco will be putting us into det for a few years so money will be very tight I would be most greatfull for any advise Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynall Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 Without a shadow of a doubt you will end end up spending a lot more than £250 on a TD5 over 2 years. Obviously if you are handy with the spanners the cost will come down to parts alone as they are easy to work on. Lynall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toastfrenzy Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 Have a look at my post here Had I been aware of this common problem on the early series II I may have looked a bit harder.... Also had the seller replace the ACE pump and the steering box before I bought. Think LR dealer quoted 1K to do both or thereabouts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticbadger Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 Suspension problems affect the air suspension, only fitted to the higher range models. Upto and including the GS 5 seat have coil springs all round. The oil problem you've been told is not too much of a problem, just check the loom once or twice a year. Also look out for the correct coolant mix and level, general leaks, noises from the ACE system, noisy clutch release bearings, rust on the chassis, damage from offroading and corrosion on the alloy panels (breath). I've had mine 14 months and 15K miles and other than servicing the only problems I have had are due to damage I've caused off road! So don't listen to the horror stories, but they do have a fair amount of electronics which even the smallest spanners can't tackle! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweety Posted July 9, 2008 Author Share Posted July 9, 2008 Thanks for the advise so far The price I mentioned was for the parts as I did the work We went & had a look at a 02 plate one today with 80K on the clocks & I had such a job to move the transfer lever It was dripping oil from the front axle/prob area, back of the engine & the transfer box. It was surpossed to have a full history which I checked but the oil filter looked very old & rusty as did the fuel filter. At what sort of mileage does the cam belt need changing & how long to the clutches last for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 No cambelt on a Td5 - it uses a chain The clutches on any Land Rover can last any time it really depends on the driving style. I have seen them totalled in just a few thousand miles by rough squaddie/women drivers, others over 100K no problem, the worst thing you can do to a LR is put an incompetent driver in it who does terrible slam-bang transmission juddering gearchanges because it will knock the stuffing out of everything in the transmission. The Td5 is probably better as it does not have the sprung clutch centre like a 300Tdi, this is what usually breaks on a 300 clutch, and the fork is also properly designed, again unlike the 300. But I think if you want a cheap transport solution it would not be the best option, if you want it because you like them well that is different, many do like theirs including me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweety Posted July 9, 2008 Author Share Posted July 9, 2008 Thanks for that chain drive hmmm I like that as I don't like belts I always keep on top of my motors & give them roughly a weekly check over from top to bottom From what i've seen the parts for LR's are cheaper then the Jap 4x4's like the £90 I paid for my water pump & it had a faulty visscus coupling & the replacement is'nt 100% as it keeps cutting in when not needed As for cheep motoring i've never really had that as the hot hatches I used to drive I had to replace the front tyres at least once a year, cv boots splitting, bushes going etc. I'm starting to really consider an auto because of the probs I have with my legs & it seams that alot of D2's have cruise control on them which would be a blessing for me on long trips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 From what i've seen the parts for LR's are cheaper then the Jap 4x4's like the £90 I paid for my water pump & it had a faulty visscus coupling & the replacement is'nt 100% as it keeps cutting in when not needed try pricing up a set of injectors for a td5.... or replacing a wheel bearing (entire hub assembly required!!!)....or a new suspension airbag......or fuel pressure regulator........or exhaust manifold....... not had the pleasure of having to replace all the above - yet - but D2 aint that cheap for spares. I'm starting to really consider an auto because of the probs I have with my legs & it seams that alot of D2's have cruise control on them which would be a blessing for me on long trips they are lovely cruisers, super comfy. I wouldnt sell ours. Great engine, and if you get a decent spec version (anybody can drive in poverty - so spend the extra couple of hundred and get an ES) then its a real pleasure to be in for several hours at a time. The harmon kardon sound system is wonderful! Also, try looking for very well cared for pre-march 2001 discos, as you'll save a fortune in car tax from next year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 When buying mine, I had 2 choices...... Buying a top spec one - lots of electrics and funny systems (including air suspension) to go wrong. Most are Auto, so that's even more of a pain in the neck. Buying a low-spec one - very few non-mechanical elements so easier and cheaper to fix. Many manuals to pick from so better MPG, too... I bought a 3 year old 2002 02 plate TD5 S Manual with Climate control, electric windows and a CD changer, that's it. No air suspension to break, no sunroofs to leak..... Paid a little over the top for it, but it came from a reputable dealer with 12 month guarantee, full LR service and 12 monts LR assistance thrown in for nothing. It has now just about scraped over 47000 miles and the worst cost I've had is the tyres. Try to get one with the 16" alloys if you can as there is a big jump in tyre price when you go to 18"!!! Like almost £30 a corner (or, at least it was 18 months ago!)!! Other than that, the servicing isn't cheap, but I use a local LR specialist to keep up the service history. Points to look out for in my experience: Rubbish protection on the chassis - at 3 years old when I bought it, the rear of the chassis was already littered with surface rust. Headlights - for some reason, mine have somehow gone out of alignment over the 3 years that I've owned it. There is not enough adjustment to get them to within MoT limits any more. Luckily mine are the pre-facelift type so not too expensive to replace. Rear door leaks - may need a bit of adjustment. That's it..........apart from the first signs of oil in the injector loom, but that's a job for this weekend and not too big a job by the sounds of it! HTH Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 When buying mine, I had 2 choices......Buying a top spec one - lots of electrics and funny systems (including air suspension) to go wrong. Most are Auto, so that's even more of a pain in the neck. Buying a low-spec one - very few non-mechanical elements so easier and cheaper to fix. Many manuals to pick from so better MPG, too... That's why I got mine - I could have got an ES with SLS and ACE for not a lot more at the time, but I chose not to go with the additional complexity. Six years on and having seen broken SLS and ACE systems I am glad I didn't Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 And if the 300tdi breaks the springs in the clutch plate, the TD5 breaks the springs in the flywheel and it all goes to hell. Guess which is the cheaper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andymach23 Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 I was pretty nervous about buying mine. It's a year 2000 GS with 121K miles and very little history. I paid £3950 for it at the end of January. I've had a few things go wrong. The fuel pressure regulator was leaking - £130 fix at indie. Bias Plate in gearbox broke - £5 for part, fixed myself. Rear door latch failed. £25 2nd hand part fitted myself. Had to replace contacts and plunger on starter solenoid. £12 on parts and fitted myself. Another easy job. The sunroof leaks, but this is an easy enough job that I will tackle myself sometime. I have a leak from the steering box, which worse case scenario will be about £150 exchange for a reconditioned one that I will fit myself. I have oil in my ECU plug from my injector harness, but this isn't affecting anything yet and is a cheap easy DIY fix. I will be putting loctite on my oil pump bolt soon, which entails taking the sump off. Jeez, what a list! All these are bog standard TD5 issues I've changed the air filter, oil filter and changed the engine oil and gearbox oil so far. I will be tackling the brakes soon and have seen Mintex discs and pads on Ebay for £45 per axle set. Not sure what these are like but the price is good. I have air suspension and I really like it. It keeps the car dead level when I am towing the boat. esprings are about £70 each side and easy to fit. The more expensive compressor fails commonly if left to struggle with leaking bags. I have had incremental improvements in performance by 1. Blanking off EGR. £5 quid plate off Ebay, easy fit, helped a bit. 2. Cleaned out gunge from MAP sensor on inlet manifold. Simple job, transformed the car. 3. Fixed sticking turbo wastegate with a squirt of oil. Easy job, and made a further significant improvement. I liked the TD5 for the large boot, the proper 2 extra seats in the boot and a proper middle 3 point seat bealt in the back seat. How many 4x4's have that. After 6 months of ownership, I really like mine. It's a real solid car and a nice drive. Really love the power folding mirrors! Cheers Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 ...I will be tackling the brakes soon and have seen Mintex discs and pads on Ebay for £45 per axle set. Not sure what these are like but the price is good. ... In a previous life with smaller cars, I always found that Mintex pads are quite soft and create a lot of dust. If the car gets used in the mud, I would imagine that tend to break up even quicker than standard/OE pads with the added grit... No experience of the discs, but at £45 per axle set for discs and pads, I'd be a bit wary... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticbadger Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 One main point though - don't go silly with it off road! I did the intemediate course with mine last year at Eastnor, then some green laning and all was well, impressed at the performance of the TC on road tyres. Then I got carried away and ran over a tree in a puddle on a green lane. Ripped the pipes out of the ACE pump, which subsiquently drained it's fluid and burnt out, and smashed the corner of the front bumper. £1000 to replace the ACE pump and piping and with that repair I'm still driving around with a fog light hanging out some 4 months later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 And of course it is easier to change the discs on a DII than a DI, cheaper if you are paying labour. My Mintex pads on the front of the Defender are about half worn after 120 000 kms, though I am generally good on brakes. Next set will be AP Lockheed as they are sitting in the garage already! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweety Posted August 29, 2009 Author Share Posted August 29, 2009 Hi guy's i'm back again after almost a year well i'm now deff on the hunt for a D2 My Terrano is now needing quiet a bit spent on it & 1 part I can't get till October unless I pay around £300 from nissan pluss the shell is rotting away like mad now & peeps call LR's for that at least you can get new panels off the shelf & not have to make your own up. Any way can I ask what is ACE ? Saw a nice 02 plate D2 auto today, looked in very good nick from what I could tell & it was'nt giving itself an oil change from what I could see TBH think it's been a tarmac queen all it's life. The sticker infront of the H/L stick had difflock to the side of it but the knob did'nt have the pattern on it, I tried to push it acroos from the N position but it did'nt seem to want to move is there a certain gear you need to be in as it was just parked up ? Any way i've prob put you all to sleep by now but hopefully in the next few weeks I will be a first time LR owner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pw8757 Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 Chances are the difflock problem is just that it hasn't been used much and has siezed up. It's an easy (if time consuming) fix - you just get to it by removing all the trim, etc covering it, take it off , free it and lubricate it. Look in the tech archive if you need more info for this. The cause is the lack of user requirement for difflock on a school run! Don't have a D2, so can't help on ACE, but am sure another bit of advice will be along soon.............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweety Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 Well been & looked at a nice 52 plate auto today but noticed that the O/S/F hub had what looked like a very thin coating of grease on it would this be a sign that the hub bearing is on it's last legs ? also notice there was a small water leak at the front end when I looked up underneath as the marks were on the bottom cover, when I looked down the belt tensioner looked a bit rusty (thin surface rust) & was wondering what it could poss be water pump top rad hose leaking ? last but not least the rear air bags have been replace with coils but I was wondering if the cars comp had to be altered for this & if there was any way of telling if it's been done or not This D2 is for sale at a garage but i'd be happy to do this work if I can knock the asking price down enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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