CwazyWabbit Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 Reb78 asked me to post this so blame him if it bores you Inspired by the blog post on Stonefisks site I decided to try adding a 90 tank to my 110 CSW.... Right first things first remove all 34 rivets holding the under seat toolbox in, drilling is easiest but if you have carpet stuck in place you can chisel them off from inside the toolbox. You also need to remove the seat mounting bolt at the back of the sliding rail nearest the door including the rivet that retains it's threaded insert. (You'll need to rivet the threaded insert back in afterwards) Next get hold of a tank, I went the breakers route so I got sender and a few other bits I used the single hole tank, anyway you need to remove the rear two pipes. These are the fuel filler and balance pipes, the stubs were just soldered in so can be removed with a blow torch.... then just weld some blanks over them (or in my case get dad to do it in exchange for some milling ) Obviously with the filling hole now gone we need to add another, I got a filler with cap (alas no key but we'll solve that later) from the breakers and if you fit the filler in the spot below using the existing flange that is normally used to bolt the filler in to a tub you will be left with about an 1/8" clearance between cap and the old toolbox lid Word of warning the flange is soldered so do welding in short bursts. The two holes required for mounting the rear of the tank are already present in the chassis outrigger (top of the picture) Due to how tight the tank fits in the seatbox it is 38mm further forward than if fitted in a non station wagon 110, so some threaded spacers were made .... threaded m8 all the way through. Here you can see them in place, they have to be mounted to the outrigger first as if mounted to the tank before putting the tank in it won't get past the lip on the bottom of the outrigger. Also notice the ends of the four bolts holding the back of the seatbox to the cross member have been cut flush with the nuts, space is tight. The holes to mount the front bracket are also present in the chassis Unfortunately the standard bracket won't fit as tank is now further forward ... you could probably modify one easily enough though. I didn't have one so after some cardboard aided design myself and the old fella knocked one up cont .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 .... cont To get the tank in you have to poke the front up first, then pull the back up and pop the bolts into the threaded spacers, give it a good shove The front bracket can now be wiggled into place and bolted up And there you have a tank under your seat Unfortunately there is now a gap left so when I get around to it I will bend up some galv plate to be rivetted in place.... or you can cut a bit out of your redundant toolbox. from the outside it pokes down as much as on a standard 90 .... cont.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 ...cont As I didn't have the key for the fuel cap I decided to make the key from my main fuel cap fit remove screws... don't turn capover or you'll be chasing bits about the place! If you remove the little black see-saw you will see two balls in holes (top of the picture,one is metal the other is plastic ... metal in left hole.) To remove barrel just put a key in and it'll push out and you'll end up with these bits If you remove these wafers from the barrel (don't lose the springs!) You can then swap them about a bit till you end up with something close to this once the key is put in, you can leave out any that don't fit or grind/file them flush. then re-assemble ... the rubber ring goes in before the metal one You should now have two fuel caps with the same key. Hope this all makes sense...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 there is a dedicated side tank for the same location for 110's, see page 522 on http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/parts_books/110/6_vehicle_controls_brakes_fuel_air_p472-579.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 Yep, seen that Ralph, unfortunately they are pretty expensive and also I was unable to find any available when I was planning this. I did read somewhere that they are discontinued. EDIT: Looks like I could have bought ESR4132 for 160 + Vat ... but where would be the fun in that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 Just looked again Ralph and the image in the parts book shows that tank with a rear filler so it wouldn't work in a station wagon .... assuming the picture is correct. EDIT: NTC2110 was the 10 gallon underseat tank for a 110 Station Wagon, however these are discontinued unless someone knows better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 looks to be no longer available on both versions, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 Well, very useful i think. Thanks for posting those. Certainly inspires me to crack on. The one difficulty i have is that i have RRC seats fitted in mine, so i cant lift the seatbase up for filling. From the pics, it doesnt look possible to route the rear filler hole anywhere useble in a CSW but i'll have a closer look when i have the pics next to the landy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 Maybe you could add a flap to the side of the seatbox and add a filler there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 Or the rear face (kick plate) and fill through the o/s 2nd row door? Good job there on the tank installation though! That space next to the fuel tank, above the chassis rail, is obviously the exact same space that 90s have. I was thinking of putting an on-board-air tank there on mine. Nice long thin space, well out of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 Or the rear face (kick plate) and fill through the o/s 2nd row door? ..... If you fitted the filler there I don't think the tank will fit in, there really is just enough room to pass those nuts when fitting the tank. ...... Good job there on the tank installation though! That space next to the fuel tank, above the chassis rail, is obviously the exact same space that 90s have. I was thinking of putting an on-board-air tank there on mine. Nice long thin space, well out of the way. That's a good idea, I'll be fitting an air tank as one of the next projects and was toying with fitting it in the battery box but that space looks quite appealing Even with the tool box in place there would probably be enough room ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 Fair point re. the filler. I guess it's pretty tight in there! That's what I thought, given that most air tanks are long and thin in nature it's a logical place. And relatively easy to plumb power/airline to as well, especially if you put the 12V compressor underneath somewhere as well like I was planning to (which of course is a secondary option to the preferred method of engine-driven compressor, but that's more of a pain on a 200Tdi). Anyway, I digress. That will have to wait for the next thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 Fair point re. the filler. I guess it's pretty tight in there! That's what I thought, given that most air tanks are long and thin in nature it's a logical place. And relatively easy to plumb power/airline to as well, especially if you put the 12V compressor underneath somewhere as well like I was planning to (which of course is a secondary option to the preferred method of engine-driven compressor, but that's more of a pain on a 200Tdi). Anyway, I digress. That will have to wait for the next thread I run a aircon pump and a 2nd alt on my Defender 200TDi, theres buckets of room!! Back on topic as i'm looking slowly into this for my 110... Any chance of a basic drawing of the front mounting plate? And how long are the rear spacers? A good job, nicely done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 The rear spacers are 38mm long on mine but I guess this is dependent on how accurately land rover placed the outrigger in relation to the seatbox mountings.... I think the front mounting would be easiest by modifying an existing one to shift it forward, but I'll get some measurements off the one we made as it's been removed to allow the tank to be taken out so it can be cleaned up a bit before permanent fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 The ex mil 109 tank fits into the same place on a 110 , done it with my 110 csw HTSH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony110 Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Thanks for this, very useful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 should this be added to the tech archive? Definitely something I'll b e putting in at some point in the future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 it'll be linked to the tech archive, when I get time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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