Anderzander

Here’s my experience … Not helpful - but it might make you laugh as it did me 😊

An intermittent fault on the Air Flow Meter can do this. If you have a way to plug it into a nanocom or the like you’ll be able to see the readings.

Thanks all - great input as always. The wiring seems in good order in all other ways… I’ll start with some flux, if that doesn’t work I’ll try some crimps. I made a mistake though - it’s not a resistor, it’s a diode. I should have paid more attention to which way it was fitted.

And next of kin ?

Wow 🤩

Is that to cope with your gearing ? 🤪

I’m sorting out my trailer wiring and have found the wiring won’t take any solder. I’ve cut far enough back that I’m away from any oxidation, but stripped back it has a black colour on the wire on its whole length. A skotch pad cleans it to shiny(ish) copper .. but it still won’t solder. It just runs off. I’ve had this before on old British motorbike wiring - on those I’ve found just lots of heat gets there - presumably burning something off, or I’ve just replaced it all. Any suggestions please? Plan B is going to use crimped connectors - not ideal as I need to reinstate a little resister that was in there.

I’ve gone from BFG KM3’s to Toyo - because of the cost and it making me question how much better it is. Findings so far is that the Toyo’s are excellent.

Wow - that looks way better than I would have expected it to. 🤔

I use Bilsteins - very happy with those. In fact they transformed the ride when I first put them on.

This is quite useful if you haven’t found it: http://red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html I can’t remember exactly what I have on - standard 90 read I think, but I have the progressive yellow/yellow springs on both side of the front from memory: NRC8045. I’ve two more which I plan to put on the back, so the same spring all round, to soften it up back there. With good dampers the progressive springs make a nice ride. The standard 90 fronts at 175lb rate - the progressives are 155 - 215, so softer on the first part of their movement and the. Firmer as they compress more.

I do like the look of them though !

I’ve got them on my Td5 90 - that was prompted because the old ones rotted out and I didn't want that to happen again.

And as they say … the quality will be remembered long after the price is forgotten.

Doing the chassis swap on my 90 soon added up. Even intending to minimise what else was done I ended up putting all new bushes in, engine mounts, brake lines, then the new chassis cost, dinitrol, a few other ‘whilst you are in there’ things and it was about £6k. The 80” took some money to get done…

How did you know he was Polish ? Subtitles ?

I’ve been looking at Winton - they have a good range of stuff.

Long may your input continue !

Indeed - not quite sure why I put it in this thread though 🤔

Not cheap (or even for sale) but this popped up on my Facebook feed: great comment section conversation underneath about standard axles:

😂 I’m just trying to trick him into starting the RR 😊 Seriously though - They do generate never ending lists, my 90 is certainly generating jobs faster than I can get them done …. but it’s drivable ….and I was thinking John’s 109’s been rewired and what not and seems to have come back into being ready to go - the ambulance has successfully done some chunky trips .. so could they stand being ignored for a bit in favour of the RR.

On Market Place Ross?

I will actively avoid the last one .. for the same reason

Lots of good things in that list !

Love to see you get into the RR… you must be nearing a point on the 109 and Ambulance where all the main things are done ?