miggit

Strangely enough, when you look at the fleabay "Planar" heaters and compare them with Planar UK and Russia they are totally different.... They must do a special limited edition fleabay special... I suspect that Planar was the most likely manufacturer not to take legal action... they probably just send Borris around for a chat

I can see why there are drawbacks to recovering off the axles, especially done badly... but surely if the vehicle is stuck, it will ultimately be the axles holding it fast, unless it's a series that's hung up on the gearbox crossmember.... If you're going to be using snatch recovery then it needs to be a really solid point(s). One of the many botched recoveries I've watched recently, the 4x4 lost it's axle despite being pulled on the chassis... the axle dug in and the car was ripped off it. Anything can happen, but it's best to try and undo what got you stuck, ie. backup!

Although some peep's get a wee bit carried away......

The only solid (capless) wheel nuts that I've been able to find are either 20mm or 22.5mm shank, which means that they are for D3/4, L322 and RRS, it looks like you can only get the capped type for the D2 / P38 Wrington might be able to make a set, as they are basically a RRC wheel nut with a smaller thread... Typical of LR to shrink the thread size and then wait a model run to shrink the wheel nut size... If you really must have solid wheel nuts you could always upgrade to the later alloy wheel, there are a lot of cheap 18" sets on the market as most peep's are changing them for rubber bands... fools!

? Sorry I can't see a silver 90 on the bottom left....... I get the feeling that if they'd started with a typical green laner and hacked it up there would be less objection, but when they set about a fully restored, mint, landie it is sort of upsetting for lovers of the brand. Maybe they'll do something like turn an E type into an off roaded next.......

Land Rover standardised the diff ratio across the range at 3.54:1 and varied the transfer box ratios to compensate for different wheel sizes... it was the Series Land Rovers that all the different diff ratios, but as far as I know you can fit them in most of the later axles except the Salisbury H/D axle found on some 110 Defenders. You might find this of some use http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/calc/ratio_calc.html

Series 2 and 2A + early 3's are part time 4 wheel drive, so to answer your question just removed the prop is enough to get 2WD on that car... I used to use 2WD low range all the time on mine, cos I couldn't be bothered with the faff of locking the freewheeling hubs! And the headache of getting it out of 4WD when on solid ground!

Having read the faff that you have to go through to go off road, it rather explains why you see rather a lot of RRC's without the spoiler... I can't imagine that many green laners would go to all that trouble every weekend!

I was thinking of using a similar thing in my RRC, but I decided not to because nearly all the loom uses individual fuses rather than Bus fuses, and I came to the conclusion that a total rewire and revised loom would be needed, so I'm still looking for an alternative. I'm assuming that you'll be making a custom loom, and would it not be better to run 3 smaller fuse boxes, 1 for live, 1 for accessory and 1 for ignition?

I've had a look at my gen parts list, available here! https://www.dropbox.com/s/o9n3ko08ajgo7jb/Range Rover Parts 1986-91.pdf?dl=0 And I've found that MWC6940 is up to GA (1990) and MXC6828 is GA on... Having done an image search for MWC6940 it most like the second picture you posted, so if you're looking for period correct then that's the to go for.... But remember if you intend to go on anything other that tarmac that plastic spoiler is the very first thing to break! (that is normally why they are removed)

They'll probably ammend that to include LED bulbs as well, Westminster is always a few years behind the real world....

^ Slow and steady wins the race!! Snatch recovery is very hit or miss.

Are but damned if you and damned if you don't... it is possible to rip crossmembers off the car, and it is equally possible to drag the axle off and leave the rest behind... A rear tow hitch on a drop type mount is the best of all worlds as it connects to both the chassis rails and the cross member.... sometimes you really can't beat a hi-lift jack and a shovel! From watching some of the Utube cockups it is very obvious that immediatly you get stuck, stop... otherwise you will dig a very deep hole for yourself... and try and recover in a upwards direction... as they say everyone needs a little lift every now and then. Trying to bulldozer your way through a wall of mud is not that easy, it's better to try and get on top of it!

I've seen many a mishap recovering 4x4's stuck in good... I agree that taking them out the opposite way to that which they got stuck is normally a safer option. But I personally think that the best observation that I can make is avoid snatch recovery at all costs... once momentum gets involved something is going to give, quickly I'm wondering if a pre-installed strap on the rear axle wouldn't be a better bet? There must be away to install something and hold it out of harm's way, say with some thin cable ties... that would snap off when pressure is applied..

Have you checked the the cam belt timing? From what you're describing, and remembering the initial fault, is it not conceivable that the belt is out and someone adjusted the pump timing to get it to run... you have now set the pump to its original position and the engine to TDC, but if the cam belt is out you will make things worse not better... Personally I'd pop the cover off and check that the belt is timed properly before resetting the pump timing... After all that is unlikely to be out unless there has been a replacement pump fitted, where as an incorrect cam belt install is much more likely.

Have you checked to see if the glow plugs are working??

Is there room in bobtail to have a standard under floor tank?? ^ and you wouldn't be the first one to discover that the ignition amplifier can fail, although to be fair it is clearly marked LUCAS which should be a warning of impending doom

Not sure if that means it's in it's standard position or sitting in the boot area above deck, in which case the pump should be a lot easier to get at!

I'd bung on a new fuel filter to start with, if that has no effect then you'll need to have a look at the fuel pump in the tank... there should be an access hole under the rear carpet (boot)... If the tank is steel then there could be loose rust in the bottom blocking up the pump, and if it's plastic there still could be a lot of crud in the bottom.

I've been locked in the shed But I did manage to use the time wisely! I had some 24.something ally bar (15/16") and thought I'd have a play! I'm seeing a pal at the beginning of the week who has a P38 guinea pig... So I'll report back.. And when my Pink Pong drill bit eventually gets here I'll be having another go in RRC, D1, Defender size!

One has to wonder what they were trying to do as there are no pads in one set of arms..

err that doesn't measure RPM very well

Are but some of them send via air mail which is within a week, so I don't mind....It's when them send them by Economy Rickshaw Post that they can take weeks and weeks. The bloody annoying thing is looking at the 1 week "English" sellers prices and Rickshaw post prices there is only a couple of quid in it..... so why can they offer fast delivery?

I find that the fleabay option of "Nearest First" is very handy when buying some items of Ping Pong origin

Dunstable Bedfordshire near enough?? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-LCD-Laser-Photo-Tachometer-Tachometer-Measuring-Non-Contact-Tool-O6B0/112510605693?hash=item1a3227997d:g:aYUAAOSwi8xaASxN