Richard Mills

Hi There, When I bought mine, the garage that sold it to me gave it an MOT. When |road tested it I saw the ABS light was on, and when I took delivery it was off, it got two other mot's since then, and now I find out that to fix it they took the bulb out! On abs, the most common fault is the wheel sensors, check them with a multi meter. They should all be about the same resistance. If you haven't got a meter, Maplins do a useful one for £5. Good luck.

Hi There. I had a leak to find, it is not easy. There are two ways. The proper way is to add a luminous dye to the air con fluid and look for staining with a UV light. With mine, I saw corrosion on the bottom corner of the air con's radiator. Cost me £85 for a replacement... Do it on a dry day to avoid getting damp into the system. Mine still leaks a bit, but a recharge from Halfords fixes it for a year. The recharge cans are £20 but have a £10 return deposit in them. God luck with it!

Hi There, I had air getting int mine too. It was that thing under the back wheel. It is supposed to drain out the water from the fuel, but sometimes the screw comes loose and lets air in. Look for wetness on it as a sign of leaking.

Hi There, Mine was doing the same, and I did all the checks, but it was in the colder weather. A new battery fixed it, though the old battery is still good enough to jump start other cars with. I did however create a problem, jump starting it every day made the srs lights come on, and they are still on today. Take care.

Hi There. I just made a tin gaskit the same as the one from the EGR to the pipe, but with no hole in it. The EGR can do what it pleases, but it gives no trouble now.

As it is a nice sunny day, I decided to have a go at mine. It took two hours to get th spider out, fix it and replace it. I suspect all will be ok now. My spider board had many suspect joints, so I re soldered all of them. I recommend keeping the iron on the big tag for a while, just to make sure it is fully heated. See attached picture of the offending tag.

Hi There, Mine does this too, annoying isn't it. It is getting worse and the time it stays off for is getting longer. I will soom find it. But in the mean time, I have a piece of wire 18 inches long with an insulated 1'4 inch spade on one end and an insulater crock clip on the other. As it only clags out in the most awkward places, I pull the black wire off of the stop solenoid, using the new wire, I connect it directly to the battery. It gets me home every time. The solenoid takes just over an amp, so if it draws that from the wire and does not let the fuel through, it's the solenoid, but if not enough current from the wire, it drops out and the engine stops. I bought a new solenoid but am not going to fit it as it is not faulty, it's the wiring.

Hi There.. The heater motor varying in speed may not mean the bearings need lubing... but could be the earth tag in the passengers foot well is going high resistance. This is a spade terminal at almost floor level behind the plastic cover. It may be getting loose or burnt. It is designed for 10 amps and sometimes carries as much as 30 amps. It burns easily and causes this same fault. Good luck with it!

When you eventually put a new cable on, take all of the catch mechanism to pieces and grease it carefully, not like garage did just slop it on all over. It makes a mess and misses the most important bit, the operating lever. Miss that and it then fails to close properly and when a big truck passes in the opposite direction, the bonnet springs up! Do the bit on the bonnet too, and adjust it carefully. Good luck.

When I looked under mine the first time after I got it with a new MOT I was horrified that it had been let through with rusty pipes. I changed the lot and the flexibles and all the plastic clips. Got the lot from Rimmers, it all came in a huge box through the post. Took one afternoon, easy to bleed out the air and all heavily greased afterwards. Did new disks and pads as well. Not touching that lot now for a few years. Good luck with yours.

I wouls also take a look at the earth strip in the passengers foot well. Take off the side panel and it's at the bottom, it has a number of spade tags on it and one may be burnt out. Usually the heater one is the first to go.

Hi There, If there is the same voltage at both of the screen connectors, the screen will not work at all. One tag should go to the switched 12 volts and the other should get to ground to complete the circuit. The screen will draw about 100 watts, so expect it to consume 10 amps. The screen element will have low resistance. If tracks fail they will go open circuit and leave a strip not de misted. Before they go they get a hot spot on them. As the screen is clearing a dry blob appears on the track, that clears quickly. make sure you are chasing the correct fault. Use a indicator lamp bulb, with one side of the bulb on the chassis (ground) put the other to the screen tags. If it lights on both sides then it's the earth that is faulty. If it lights on one side only, then put the bulb in series with the screen. If it does not then light, this shows a faulty screen. If the elements of the screen are broken then the paint from Maplins should fix them. Use strips of tape to get the paint strip the same as the original tracks, else it will look really carp. Take your time, and good luck.

Thanks Muddy, mine is worse than yours, now I know its not going to break the bank, I will order one too.

Hi There, I have seen glow plugs without the tips before, they have just burnt away. If it were mine I would just put new ones in and forget it. Get good quality ones though they are only a few quid more, they last longer and don't fall to bits.

If the rear shockers have not been changed, they may be a bit dodgy. They are quite cheap to replace, made mine a much steadier drive.

Hi There, This may be a bit obvious, try changing the rear ones. It sounds like you have one thats a bit duff. Only change them in pairs. They only last a few years anyway. Made the world of difference to mine.

Hi There, Easy one this... passengers side footwell, remove plastic cover from side. Under this at the bottom is a multiway earth tag. You will find the earth for the heater and other things is burnt brown. Cut off the offending spade and wrap the wire securely on the bolt post and tighten the nut over it. The spade is designed to carry a maximum of 10 amps, this circuit can take up to 30. Design flaw here.

My Disco does not have any problems of over heating and it gets up to temp quite quickly. But next to no heat comes out of the heater. i know the heater has been to pieces so to follow the advice here , it's time to check the setting up of the controls. Re circulate does not work either .

Hi There, Removal of EGR is always a good idea. Mine was not really faulty, but the truck is much better without it. Nanocom should save money , I would buy one if I was sure it would clear the SRS lights, I would consider it worth it just for that! A person I know has paid £35 each month for the last year trying to get the local garage to fix his TD5 problems. I am sure with a Nanocom I could sort it in a couple of days.

The connections are done on 3 connectors. It is not too clear on the drawings, but each door has its own "wiring harness". It looks like the harness is connected in the door post on 3 connectors that are arranged so they cannot be mixed up. It also looks like the harness comes into pieces inside the door also. These pieces are on connectors that cannot be mixed up. So the answer is, pull it apart, change what is required, and it will drop back together easily. The hardest part will be weight of the door, and getting the trim off and on without breaking much. The little plastic clips are only a few pence each , so protect the panel and loose the clip if it wont come apart. Good luck with it.

Hi There, The lock barrel is contained in the door handle assembly. 2 nuts and 2 clips release the whole lever mechanism. A bit fiddley but well worth the effort to keep the same key. As for the wiring, at first glance it looks like seperate connectors for window, door lock, mirrors. I will check up and post another reply later.

Hi There, Just been looking into my aux power system. For my disco it's used for the caravan sockets. There is a double relay drivers side under the bonnet. Power in (red) on 87 and (Blue) on 87. outputs are both opposite on 67, and head off to the rear in a 3 wire cable, to the White tow socket. The relays both have earth from the mounting screw on both 85 pins. The operate voltage comes in on a black to both 86 pins. Mine was not working because of water ingress into the series fuses (Green & Blue wires) from the engine fuse box. Both were so corrodes no volts were getting through. Cleaned and working fine now. There is another aux power supply that goes to the rear. This is a permanant supply, fed from fuse 6 in satellite box 2. This appears on the drivers side by the rear door hinges behind the fascia. One screw removes the panel and the rear door interior light illuminates the work space. Look for a wire Purple/Green as a single bullit connector with a red plastic blanking plug in it. This is connector C425 meant for powering items in a trailer other than the standard trailer supplies. 20Amp fuse fitted in fuse box.

Hi There, According to my book the one under the radio is the "Anti theft alarm". I think this is only fitted when the ultrasonic detectors are fitted , which detect movement in the car. Good to hear they are all working now.

Hi There, On my 300tdi the sedimenter started to let a small ammount of air into the system, which didn't help much. Also the lift pump was a bit tired. After fixing both it revs better, starts well and tows much better. Good luck with it!