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I still reckon a remote transfer would be tidier, easier and less problematic. If you have room.

Has anyone tried adjusting it? I had the thought while working on a sprinter 310d, it has variable fuel pump timing controlled by a needle motion sensor in injector one. Question is, why? Is it for more power? Or emissions maybe? Roland

It's good thinking but you can buy a while daf 45 for less than the price of a VNT turbo. And a 200tdi will never sound like a cummins. That said, the 110 that spawned this whole idea now has a standard 200tdi in, just to get it am me mobile.

The phenolic stuff we used to use is branded as Wisadeck. I prefer keroin planks. Stronger, longer lasting and easy to replace small sections. Naturally none slip.

Nick, what makes a spicer easier to mate to the transfer box than a ZF? And how have you rigged up the gear change?

Some very helpful info here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=81101

I'd try a set of plugs without resistors.

That sounds like the problem! I'll investigate tomorrow.

I see that on the back of the ign switch there is only one spade that is switched, and two black and white wires come off this. When I pull the wire off with ign on, I hear relays clicking. I may just rig up a separate switched wire but it doesn't solve the problem.

It's always been diesel, it's ex mod. Having poked about with the multi meter I am confirm the following voltages at the stop solenoid: Ing on, engine on; 13.8v Ign off, engine on, 1.1v Ign off, engine off, 0v So I must have a leak from the alternator somewhere?

I've put a 200tdi lump in my 1986 110. Problem is, I have to stall it to stop it, or open the bonnet and pull the wire off the stop solenoid. This rules out the solenoid it's self. Next I tried cycling the ignition with the engine off, and I hear the click. So I can only assume that the alternator is feeding the solenoid when it's runnig somehow? I have a feelin it's the switch. Although it switches ok with the engine off...

Hmm. I don't think I'd have any prop issues in my 110, and think a short prop between the gearbox and transfer would be easier to do nicely than close coupling. Need a daf 45....

Ahh small world, I added you on Facebook a while ago so I could see your land rover photos. Why did you go close coupled as opposed to remote transfer? And is there anything you would have done differently in hindsight?

You must be using a stumpy r380?

Having met the bloke himself and been subject to underhand, devious tactics by the man himself, I wouldn't expect the rest of the business to be any better.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251065172211?redirect=mobile

I think the inlets will be the same, they look it anyway.

Remember, metal feels no pain.

Is that an easy thing to do? I guess it will bolt on but are the oil feed/returns the same? I've rigged up my disco 200 in the 110 but I'm not impressed with the general rubbish fit of the hot side/cold side and exhaust.

They sound good, nice and fat. Thanks for that

Hmm Righto. Well as far as I can see, those Steve Parker exhausts are just made up from jetex tight 90 pressed bends so I'll have a bash. Is it possible to buy the flanges without having to buy a whole 300tdi down pipe?

Does anyone know if Steve Parker makes his downpipes out of 2 or 2.5" pipe? Thanks in advance. Roly

Why anybody would fit drilled or grooved discs to a land rover is beyond me. As I understood it, it was the EBC Red or yellow pads that were worth having, and that the green ones were designed for less brake dust for the shiny alloy wheel brigade.

Who sells decent ones? The last ones I had from Paddocks were like a shrick is a pirt sleeve and the nuts all wound on wonky. I want some nice chunky ones with a decent fine thread.

Do the question is, does the stat divert 100% oil to the cooler or does it just give it the option?