bluespanner

I'm in the midlands so ambient is I dunno, -10 to 25 degrees Celsius. The oil I have is some GM stuff that Arnold Clark are knocking out for £2 a litre (£40 for four 5 litre cans) when you buy a service kit. It says 5w30 dexos2 api sm/cf I'll see what else I can get in 10w40 I think.

Will 5w30 fully synthetic oil be ok in a low mileage 200tdi? Thanks all

Sounds like the diode behind the dash, allowing a small voltage to back feed. A stop solenoid only needs a couple of volts to hold it in. Found this out the other month when my 110 did the same.

seems that my NSR is RKB101111 which is a dual rate progressive spring -270 to 420 lb/in designed for TD5 and OSR is RKB500300 which is a tri rate progressive spring with 270/315/406lb/in as found on TDCi weird. i reckon they should work ok together... it also would seem that my OSF spring is a good deal stronger than my NSF. I'll see what it drives like. Seems strange to me how its ended up with all these springs because they are all genuine parts and brand new. Likewise the dampers. Thanks for your help yes, my NSF is NRC9449 Heavy duty, OSF is NRC8045 standard duty :/

Sort of. The prop I have is too long for the Salisbury by about four inches. I thought it may fit a rover axle but I now wonder if it's for a stubby nosed wolf type axle. Maybe Ralph could tell us. My question really was what axle I could fit without cutting the prop, and end up with disc brakes as well.

My 110 project came fitted with new springs, and I would be interested to know what rates they are or what they came off originally. I have colours as follows, NSF yellow/white OSF yellow/yellow (this one looks progressive as the coils tighten at one end) NSR purple/brown OSR green/green/white Regards, Roland

My '86 110 project has its standard drum braked Salisbury. the rear prop that came with it is a genuine FTC 4198, which is apparently for a td5 and none Salisbury model. It's a lovely chunky looking thing, and I wonder if it would be better to fit a discovery axle, then I get disc brakes as well. Either that or get GKN to cut it and shut it, does anyone have any data for open and closed lengths of a Salisbury type? Hope I make sense. Roland

They look more suited to 235/70s

hmm good plan ill make sure i check the prop bearing first. Thanks

Has anyone tackled one of these? I see the kits are available, but I don't want to get half way and then require a £500 special tool or something Good afternoon Roland

Dropped it off this morning, what a nice bunch. It's also really nice to stick your head through the door and see a very busy workshop full of machines and blokes in aprons.

Out of interest, why remove the half shaft to swap flanges?

I always found a couple of seconds winding, then ten secs heat, then start worked for me.

When this engine gets hot, there is no pressure at any rpm. Without the thermostat in it sits at 50psi

I like how it has both internal and external full cages. I may fit two cages to mine!

Would a slipping cam bearing only show up when hot though? Or all the time?

Recently fitted a disco tdi for a friend into a 110. Once it was in and running, it seemed to run very cool, so I checked the 'stat and lo and behold, there wasn't one. Fitted one, and the temp sits at 85, but now the oil pressure drops off to nothing. (both gauges are capillary) Cold oil pressure is 40psi at tick over and 80psi at 2k rpm. I'm thinking worn oil pump? Not doing its job with hot thin oil? I assume a slipped cam bearing would affect oil pressure at all times, not just when hot. Roland

What about a can of ether in the cab with a small pipe to the air inlet?

Would these guys take in the whole thing on a pallet? Or are they the kind of shop that just deal with the block, or the crank etc? I'll do some phoning round.

I think the engine is fitted to quite a few things, jag x type etc. thing is, they will all be a bit different, just how different I'm not sure but I want my life to be as easy as I can make it!

I have at the moment a dead 07 freelander 2.2, and it seems like engines for them are like rocking horse excrement. Pan B is to mend the existing lump, but meddling with that sort of engine isn't really my bag, I'm more tdi than tdci. Google reveals a wealth of supposed rebuilders/reconditioned but you hear all sorts of horror stories about silicone extruding from every pore, and so on. Any ideas?

What on earth is happening here? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Series-1-Landrover-Pickup-1955-registered-with-DVLA-with-V5-etc-/300871773483?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item460d5aed2b

I don't see why one employee would report anying to vosa about the competance of another colleague, after all, the points system only applies to the station as a whole, not to any individual. If he did that too many times, the station would be suspended from testing and he would be out of a job.

I need an engine for my 07 freelander, and while genuine freelander ones are like hens teeth, the engine must be fitted into other cars? X type? Transit? If these are the same engines, are they compatible? I still have my blown up lump so could swap bracketry etc I've seen someone on eBay offering an engine fully fitted for £2495... How easy are they to swap? Yours, deep in thought.

I had good results by cutting one of the hockey sticks in between the bushes. I called it two and a half link.