Peaklander

I sincerely hope not. I am having enough trouble finding time to rebuild my Roamerdrive. Don’t want a bottom end rebuild too. 😱

Thought it’s been skimmed a bit but then I just zoomed in. Maybe it’s not good

Well I had a look and it is slowly turning darker but only slightly. I might be wrong but I’m sure bits fine dark almost immediately. The rad has been off once in my time but I didn’t intentionally drain the oil cooler at that time. Maybe it’s the new hoses that are keeping it clean. 🤷🏻‍♂️ I also managed to overfill it when I couldn’t see the level at the side of the road. There’s about 1 litre excess in there. Not sure whether to attempt to drain it a little if I find a suitable container on a campsite. We are only doing an occasional few miles over the next couple of weeks, most days not moving. Then a straight 150 miles home.

The short question is just that. My oil is a beautiful pale brown even after a 150 mile reasonably high speed drive. This has never happened before. When I do an oil change on my 300TDi the new oil turns back very quickly. It’s helpful, as it can be readily seen on the dipstick and I recheck the level a few times quite soon after the job is done. I did a change of oil and filter a few days ago. I don’t have my file with me but the interval will have been roughly 5-6K miles. This time I replaced both oil cooler pipes (originals on there) and was extra careful with quantities, eventually filling with 6litres plus what I needed to fill the filter before I fitted that. I was just a little puzzled before we left today on a camping trip as when I checked I could hardly see the level. Due to the oil cooler pipe change, I was slightly worried about leaks on the new pipe unions but it was pouring with rain for the 3 hour journey so didn’t stop to check until my paranoid self said that the oil pressure was a tad lower than normal. There were no leaks. When I checked, the stuff is still almost translucent and thin and very hard to see, especially at the side of the road. Could it have been my pipe change and my old pipes coloured it quickly Diesel oils go black quickly anyway don’t they? it’s now dark and I will look again in the morning but in the meantime, what do you think?

I read that the volumes that we might produce, even though potentially ’huge’, wouldn’t be enough to affect the world price of gas.

It’s a good job you didn’t ask for the link I promised as my nas has been hacked by ransomware and all files encrypted.

Ah yes I see what you asked now. Sorry, I read your post too quickly.

I have one at the rear wheel arch on my 110. I will try to find a link. It's very handy and quite spacious. There's a similar one available for the front of the tub, as long as you don't have second row seats, as then the footwell uses the space.

I’d be happy if any more knowledgeable members would confirm what I’ve said. I hope I have understood correctly but I haven’t altered the rod length and my boost sits at around 1 Bar.

Mike what I said above is how I believe it works - and so the opening pressure is increased by adjustment on the device as it is the spring pressure that is altered to hold it closed at differing pressures. Edit: just to add that the maximum pressure is going to be defined by the turbo itself and the state of opening of the wastegate valve. Once that is fully open then it’s limited by the turbo. If you alter the rod length you can prevent the valve from ever fully opening and that can also control the maximum.

I’m trying to answer that😄. As I said, the valve is set to allow a specific turbo pressure to open the wastegate. Just as you desire. Until it reaches that pressure, the wastegate doesn’t move. Then the actuator takes over and the rod moves to open the valve. That is over the working movement of the actuator from that pressure up, until the valve is fully open and dumping all the excess That’s all I know. If I’m wrong then someone will no doubt correct me (please).

A little squirt of silicone spray might help?

Why do you say "explosive pressure increase"? The wastegate is just held closed until the desired turbo pressure is reached and then it's allowed to open. This would be quicker but that's what you are trying to achieve, rather than "creeping".

As i understand it and I have the same device as @Mo Murphy, the purpose is to allow the user to set the pressure at which air is admitted to the wastegate actuator. Until this set pressure is reached, no air is admitted and the wastegate remains closed. Once the desired pressure is reached (at whatever point the air supply is taken from), that full pressure is applied to the actuator and it will therefore move. As it's at an elevated pressure already, there will be no creep and the wastegate will open quickly.

That's a bit harsh. Mike's videos are beautifully 'amateurish' and capture, in real time, the many tasks and challenges that we face.

I used the bulkhead as a lifting point, with two steel cables coming off a chain block, down to an engine crane balancing arm across the width. As has been said already, without the bulkhead there's nothing else to fasten to at the front.

To add to the questions and because I’m such a Luddite, please tell more about the engine, mounts and connections to the rest.

It was built by a local scaffolding company. I did dismantle it though; quite a job as they use the highest torque impact guns and the last few poles all need skyhooks to hold them as the final few clips are undone! I forgot to mention that I ran new brake lines in a mix of new and salvaged clips. Also I had already changed the CSW crossmember that @cackshiftermentioned, but the rear tub supports were replaced a year or so after the footwells which as I said, was a year after the chassis. I think you get the idea; it’s a chase and you’ll probably replace everything eventually. 😄

I swapped my 110 chassis on the drive, in a one piece body lift. I really would have liked to dismantle but I didn’t have time and space. I took my time and did things like new clutch and added auxiliary wiring to the rear, plus new fuel lines. The list is a long as you want it to be. A year later I replaced the footwells and an A post. Maybe it would have been better dismantled.

Mike I understand that it’s pulled water into a cylinder or two, due to the failed gasket and that can’t be compressed. So how do you empty it? Do you mean by removing a glow plug or injector and then turning it over (socket on crank?) to push it out? I can’t imagine any other way. Also was there no pushrod damage?

I have the same. At least the tin can be used upside down, whereas the spray gets very fussy as it gets emptier.

What a good memory recall. It was one of my threads and this link should go direct to page 2 where there is reference to Bondloc b638-50

Very nice. I think you would benefit from a piece of cardboard to kneel on. Obviously I haven't seen your knees - just guessing. Coat ... 🏃‍♂️

The aerial needs a good ground plane below it, that is, a large expanse of metal. This creates an image of the aerial length above and improves the 'gather' of the radio waves. This is an RF connection and it does not need to be a direct metal to metal connection. Edit. I should clarify that it’s the sheath of the cable that needs to be connected to the body metal that forms the ground plane, such as the (metal) wing. In reality I suppose this means that the base of the aerial should be in good contact with the metal work, as that is the connection to the cable sheath.

I initially investigated re-chroming my swivels and found this too. The chrome layer is so thin, that any underlying surface imperfections show through. A chroming place in Sheffield decline to do any automotive parts but with a quick google I remember finding a place in Ashford, Kent, if memory serves.