Peaklander

Contact cleaner is 'magic' stuff. I have just sprayed the little pcb and wipers inside a CRV accelerator position sensor module. There were no signs of dirt but it has cured the engine codes that suddenly started appearing. Edit: Having said that, I also sprayed the connector halves and they could just as easily have been the problem.

I have one, in a new later rear door and I am happy that I think I can be seen - better 🤭 One of the studs on the glass was loose and I had to re-bond it. I bought the lamp and the adapter thing to change the mounting angle, from the JLR Classic parts website, as their prices were as good as anywhere.

Some useful information in that link provided at the top by @Anderzander - Description The general function of a window is to allow light to access the vehicle's cabin as well as allowing external visibility from the cabin. It also provides means of air circulation when required.

Please post a pic. That would help me decide what to buy...

I'm getting through my list but it's the big money items unfortunately. 1996 110 CSW at 170K miles, now used as camper Upgrade / overhaul the powertrain - doing this now Decide which rims to use from now on - existing Boosts or unused Wolfs and get some new tyres - can't decide on rims or tyres Fit wing checker plates - already got them in stock Upgrade radio with DAB but this might need a re-hash of the Mud console layout which means a new one... & whilst I'm at it, fit tweeters at face level so I can hear the &*&^ thing If I re-do the Mud console should I get an RPM gauge or is that just bling? Make / buy a support and then mount my hi-lift jack at the back right corner Increase my solar wattage from 100W. I'm finding this to be marginal in Spring / Autumn when the days are short and the heater and fridge are both in use Have a little fettle in the 'kitchen' corner as we now have a better gas hob and it needs to be a bit more permanent. Look at the power steering oil weeps Try to locate the engine oil weep - might be the vacuum pump or oil filter mounts Get a tool roll so I'm not wrapping stuff in a towel Fit a manual switch to cross-connect Start and Aux batteries in the event of a flat battery Better security - more work on the electrical side Slight mod to my wiring to add a switch so I can swap the internal lights across from Starter to Aux when we are parked for several days (again for shoulder seasons) More hooks, nets and other storage inside ...

@toenden is talking about an ATB not a locker @Sigi_H

You need to check them all! It's a real pain but their attitude to your risk is variable and the prices quoted are specific to everything about you. I am with the NFU via their local office and one of the reasons is their willingness to consider all the little mods and improvements I have done, for no extra premium. Other companies seem to rack-up the price as soon as I do that.

No not crossed, just my explanation maybe. If you buy their ATB then they will fit it for £95+VAT, assuming the diff is in good running order. I don't know what their assessment is but I tried to find out how much it would cost if it requires new bearings etc and that is where they said they couldn't, they would need to see it first. I am only trying to assess the relative cost of them or me "rebuilding".

The reply from Dave Ashcroft is that it is OK to fit an ATB in the front and at the same time keep an open diff in the rear. So that, together with the experience of @Tobias and other opinion means that it's a real choice for me now. Unfortunately Ashcrofts are a little guarded about the cost to rebuild. The base is £95+VAT but I don't think this includes the pinion seal or any bearings or shims. I think a max of four bearings are needed at the pinion and the two carriers. Also there's a seal or two and potentially a new pinion flange but there was no oil leak so it will probably be ok. I probably don't need to buy the shim pack if Timken bearings are being used as it 'should' go back into the same position. I have done my first checks of the current unit but will repeat them and I can't see any damage at all. There's obviously a method to learn in handling the DTI and getting it positioned securely and reliably. There's a technique to painting of the marker for the mesh test too! First results are Crownwheel runout - 0.05mm (target 0-0.10) and backlash 0.15mm (target 0.08-0.18) The mesh looks like this - now I am simply putting them out here for now. I don't know if I have enough detail to make a proper assessment or not. From what @uninformed advises, if it looks ok then I would be trying to replicate with the new setup.

I haven’t had time to add the detail to the thread but I will. I have done a mesh check and will post the photos and the dti results tomorrow. I have lodged an email at Ashcrofts about the ATB and then I will be able to choose between it or open 4 pin and DIY or buy the expertise 😊

I have borrowed a much better DTI and stand from @nickwilliams (thank you Nick) but I forgot to ask if he has some engineers blue. I am going to check the runout and backlash and then the mesh and I will post results. Also I am going to ask Ashcrofts about using an ATB in just the front, with the unmolested Salisbury in the back. I know that it will provide some self-centering and that opinions on fitting it 'alone' are split but I really do like the idea of it being able to deal with slight front axle wheel spin, especially in winter around here. If the crown wheel and pinion checkout OK, then I will keep them and fit either the 4 pin centre or the ATB. I would hope that doing this won't introduce any noise into the final drive. The cost premium at Ashcroft is £90 (ATB v 4 pin). I am not sure whether to do it myself or not. Would you replace the pinion bearings or only if there's signs of wear? I have read and watched a lot of advice in the last 36 hours and from what I can see, I don't need to worry about getting a pinion height setting block but would expect to need a selection of new shims. I will be using Timken bearings and so dimensions will be the same. Anyway isn't the initial pinion height setting (with the block) the initial (close) guide and the final test and set-up is by looking at the meshing? That would indicate whether final minute pinion height adjustment is needed, which would the deviate from that initial height setting anyway.

I haven't moved one of the planet gears, that's the one that looks ok. I can count 20 needles in there, from the outside obviously. It's surprising how much room there is between the needles and I would expect that there must be a separating washer otherwise they could move across into the ones in the inner stack. I have bagged it all now, put it in a box and brought it in the house but yes, I should really have a look and feedback to GRC this week.

You could nip back down to Sheaf Diesel. They will pop test them while you wait. If you book in advance I’m sure they would also clean and work on any that need it, while you walk the Five Wiers or visit the site of the Full Monty canal scene 😄

It hasn't been cleaned but does look OK. There are no obvious marks on anything. I have a little DTI gauge, not very brilliant but the backlash doesn't appear to be much at all - maybe only 5 thou. I think that's too small but I am hopefully going to borrow a better gauge. I will be able to check the crown wheel runout too then.

There should be something (17C) but there isn't. Maybe they are paste. Also can't find some of the washers.

I took a few more photos and then bagged-up all the parts. I know how it goes back together, honest! Next is to wait for the advice on replacement parts from Global Roamer Corp. Yesterday when I handed over my TBox, Richard Ashcroft suggested / asked that when it's re-fitted, I run the vehicle without the overdrive for a while. This will eliminate any noises that the OD might introduce to the transmission. I am sure that he will get the TBox back to me well before I rebuild the OD. By the way, those planet gear needle roller bearings are weird. Each has a double stack with twenty rollers in each stack. I cant see any separating washers in the two that I have removed, so don't know how they stay apart. It's going to be a precision job to rebuild one of those, unless it comes from GRC ready built. The shafts are worn so there isn't anything serviceable really.

Today I moved onto the front axle and continued to remove the hubs as complete units. The panhard and track rod joints released easily with taps and the 14mm screws into the axle were easy to remove. I used one of the dangerous non-reversable ratchet spanners and it makes it an easy job - once I checked that nothing was going to get stuck. The hubs with swivels and driveshafts sticking out are now on the bench. Even though I committed to the purchase of a complete new final drive from Xcess 4x4, Nige has been kind enough to let me ponder the best way forward and refunded the deposit so that I can take my time and have a look at mine. I know I said that I was going to stop prevaricating but I want to in this case. I was prepared for the weight of the final drive unit but maybe I should have raised the front a bit higher. It is quite a lump. Next is to do the backlash check - everyday is a school day.

I was taught by Japanese mentors to "never give up", so try to keep your mojo working. I had to remove a VNT off a CRV this time last year- twice. It's almost impossible to get at; really really hard. So I am sure it will be simple for you on your truck and will eliminate another potential cause in your Cause & Effect.

If I ever get it back together I will do this. It's a perfect TPM (Total Productive Maintenance) approach; making things easy to check. Edit: my exhaust is a little further away.

@cackshifter @Snagger, thanks. I have been using Comma SX75W-90 GL-4 semi-synthetic oil, for which the viscosity at 40 deg is 100 and at 100 deg is 15.5. The GL4 is required rather than GL5 due to the metals in the unit. It's easy to find this oil in the UK, even Halfords sell it at £9.99 per litre currently. I have measured the drained oil and I can find a little over 3 litres and the instructions simply say that 3-4 litres is required. The fill method is TBox filled to the fill hole, then a further 3/4 litre in the OD itself. Then after a run the level is checked through a grubscrew in the OD. I didn't get this wrong and it was checked before our Scotland trip last summer.

Mine has never failed but I don't think I have ever seen the emissions data. Do they only note if there's a fail? Unless it's on the back and I haven't noticed 🤯

I re-read the whole thread when I arrived at Ashcrofts, before I knocked on their door. Opinion re the centre ATB is split somewhat, (as it is in our household) but on reflection I cancelled the HD cross pin and went for the ATB. Net increase is £255+VAT. My New Year resolution was to not prevaricate. This thread has helped me make informed decisions rather than just ponder the inputs, so thank you very much everyone.

It's not too late and I will think about it again as I drive down the M1 in a few minutes to drop it off.

They are on the same Attercliffe street as Mister Gearbox, who helped me with my Roamerdrive this week.

Maybe the faulty motor has a dirty commutator or worn brushes. ( I assume that’s how it is constructed) Most upgrades are the speed control side but I believe some people have replaced the motor with a marine bilge motor (I think that’s the right term). Try a search.