Peaklander

Only slightly off-topic I think... I recently broke a Draper 1/2" breaker bar. It's around 600mm / 24" long and I snapped it at the knuckle without any extender pipe on it. I was trying to undo the crank bolt on the Honda CR-V that is mentioned elsewhere in a thread. Got in a good position, braced and pulled very hard. Then BANG. I had no idea where it had been bought but was in the last six years or so and I approached Draper direct with an email. They asked me to return it at my cost, with the broken bits, to their 'workshop' and they would inspect it. A week or so later they emailed to say that they will replace it - although I have had to wait a further three weeks for one to be available. It's coming next week. So not a bad aftermarket guarantee honoured, in fact I don't know if they advertise a lifetime guarantee or not. In the meantime I bought a replacement from Halfords and it is a better design at the knuckle. The Draper bar splits at the end to wrap around the socket adapter whereas the Halfords one remains as one piece and it's the adapter that wraps around the bar. A 3/4" bar would be better but I have a decent old skool tommy bar for that size and a nice scaffold pole.

I haven't yet had a good blast in the car but yes, I hope the turbo is OK. I didn't disassemble it any more than I described, so those three torx screwheads that you can see were left in. I'd had no dramas in splitting it to get that far and I didn't want to create one unnecessarily. After cleaning I looked hard at each of the vane actuators and their corresponding slot in the ring. I can see one that appears more worn than the others so that vane would have a tiny bit of a delay in movement. I hope I have saved the cost of an exchange unit.

Carb spray and lots of wiping. The ring, the three little support wheels for it and three pins that are the axles for those wheels, all lift off. The rest of the top side and the vanes and the turbine fan were cleaned with a toothbrush and rags. The carb spray instantly dissolves the carbon. I kept looking at pics of new ones to drive me to get it cleaner.

Thanks @cackshifter. I haven't quite handed it back yet to daughter #1. The last few days have been spent refitting the front bumper and various plastic guards and then I went for a proper drive and flooded the top of the engine with diesel. I hadn't quite got the union lined-up on one injector (short pipes off the common-rail) and had it tight but leaking. It was a novice mistake, where I had tightened the straight end of the pipe rather than the union at the other end which was on a bend. Must have pulled it off centre. So I removed it and tweaked the pipe a little. You can imagine where the diesel went after the top of the engine. All underneath was coated and the the mist had come back up all over the tailgate. So that took some cleaning. Then I hosed down the drive but managed not to look at the road. Second test drive had some 'smoke' coming up from the rear of the engine which I hope isn't an oil drip (turbo). It might be a poor exhaust joint as there are several high up. After the manifold theres a 90deg bend then a pre-cat with another bend down to the flexible coupling. Hope it's nothing major. I then looked at the rear end and saw this joint at the mid to rear box connection. The mid box (genuine Honda) is all in great condition except for the welded flange where the material is presumably compromised at welding. I hope to fit a new flange by cutting it in half and welding back. (well not me, a proper welder).

Any use?

Maybe this will help although the photo from the book isn't very clear - in fact it doesn't even look like the right hand side of the gearbox! I will see if I can get under mine and take a photo. Edit Here’s mine, it’s on the rhs of the transfer box. This is the view looking back alongside the front prop.

That is the earth connection on the side of the R380. Not sure that I have a photo of mine but the bolt is somewhere there in the right side of the box.

I mentioned fuel filter as I had the exact same symptoms. It was a different era, different vehicle and petrol. I had dragged-up muck from the bottom of the tank. Had a horrible journey down the A1 from Durham in the dark and cold. A surge of power then slow almost to a stop, then repeat for 140 miles. The next day when I cleaned the bowl filter, it was full. Fingers crossed for you.

Maybe a blocked fuel filter?

The CR-V is almost back together now after a few weeks of turmoil. How different it is working on an engine that sits fairly tight in the engine bay. As well as replacing the cam and oil pump chains, I managed to remove the turbo and stripped it down in order to clean the VNT mechanism which was coked-up and there had been a turbo over-boost fault the last time the car was driven. Along the way I lost a turbo nut into the exhaust and it rattled its way along to the front end of the cat as I tried to work out where it was. I had to cut-off the cat in order to tip it back out. I also had two M10x50 bolts left over. They were probably the only ones not labelled and it took hours of looking and thinking, before an extended session (at 1:30am) in front of a parts diagram indicated where they should have gone. Luckily there was only the intercooler to turbo pipe to move to fit them. Generally I found things very hard work. The engine had to be lifted up and down to get stuff in and out. The sump is only removed with the front subframe lowered a few cm. The turbo will only come out with the engine in place (and lifted up and down) if all the stuff over the gearbox is removed, so that's battery and (rusted-on) box, gearshift cables, air box and pipes, fuel pipes, etc. etc. I'll be glad to get back to my 110. The new injectors haven't yet been coded to the ecu but starting was no problem. The first video is the engine running before I started the job. The second is the start after the injectors were plugged into the loom after a few cranks on the starter to get diesel up and hopefully some oil into the turbo. Compare and contrast 😁

Glad it's in and working Ralph. The heater box is a tidy option and you will get used to the raised cubby position. It's hard to tell whether it's as noisy as mine is at start-up but the outside sound level doesn't seem too bad at all in those videos.Enjoy the warmth!

I don't mind the pump noise. It is just a ticking and the frequency depends on the rate at which the burner is running. The standard fix is a rubber mount in a clamp, as in my photo. When the heater is on full fire the noise of the pump disappears!

Yes It has an after-market one on. I have been moaning about it for some time but haven't yet tried any other solution such as a genuine exhaust silencer or one on the inlet. I believe that these newer D2 heaters (at least) always go onto full flame at start-up for at least a minimum run time, in order to ensure that carbon build-up is minimised. I am guilty of spreading that rumour as I don't definitively know that this is correct. The noise is only an issue on the outside of the vehicle; that's what I mean about spoiling the tranquility. If its windy it's no problem but in a quiet spot or campsite, in the early morning, it can be loud.

I'll be interested to compare the noise of your heater with mine. We may need to share videos. I can't get used to the jet engine roar of the burner during the start-up / warm-up phase. It makes a tranquil early morning a little less tranquil. However heat is better than cold!

Yes that sounds like a good reason.

I lifted my body to swap the chassis. I used the experience of @western above but eventually decided on a scaffold. The details are on page 3 of my thread here. The main lift points were either side of the bulkhead, a scaffold pole under the tub just forward of the rear wheels and at the rear door (just in case). I think I went a bit overboard with the scaffold but I really didn't know what to expect and also how long it would be before the new chassis went back underneath.

I recently claimed on my Ctek guarantee. The charger has a 'mode' button which you use at switch-on, to cycle through the battery type (AGM or normal), car or motor bike (assume thats 12/6V) and recondition or not. It hardly ever got pressed and then when I did need it to change from AGM, it took loads of fiddling to get it to change over. I couldn't open the case without probably breaking it so I looked for my receipt. Fortunately I keep the eBay purchase emails and it was just a few weeks inside the 5 year guarantee. The eBay website doesn't offer you the transactions older then a couple of years or so but having the email showed me the seller (PayPal didn't have enough information either). The seller was still on eBay and still selling Ctek stuff so I sent a message. Very quickly I received a reply asking me to return the unit and it would be sent on to Ctek who would then instruct. Only a week or so later I was told that a new unit would be sent out.

This is the comparison between the old and new cam chains. Not only is the chain about a whole link longer (around the loop), it has some very loose pins but not all of them are loose. It's a little strange tbh as I would have assumed they all wear in the same way. This is a 'DID' brand chain which I think is original equipment but the cam guides have certainly been changed since the car was built (2008) as the die stamps are 2013 and 2014. I can only assume that the chain was also changed then but that implies that the chain has stretched in about six years. The much shorter oil pump chain hasn't stretched at all (also 'DID') but I have changed it, along with the guides and the tensioner. I have been busy cleaning the injector bores with carb cleaner and rags wrapped around a suitable tool. They have a hard coating of carbon on much of the lower part. The whole job is suffering from specification creep as I am now looking at the intercooler and probably the turbo. One thing is it makes me yearn for my 300TDi. That is a whole lot easier to access and work on. Removing the sump and timing case on this CR-V requires two engine mounts to be removed, an engine crane, the sub frame to be partially lowered and even then two pairs of eyes and hands.

It’s only been in our family for a few weeks. I said it would be a good bet as I have confidence in Hondas but still a gamble. I have got as far as removing the timing case (so a long way) and can now see the cam chain and associated parts. Some of the (many) fixings to be removed have been very difficult so say the least but they are off! Currently trying to see what's actually wrong. The tensioner appears to jump back to ‘no tension’ as the crank is turned. Don’t know how much to post as this isn’t really the right forum 😁 Edit: here goes... chain noise in running engine and ... chain and tensioner 'in action'

I'm not going to do half a job.

Happy Christmas to all forum members and your nearest and dearest. It’s been a nasty year but we are getting the vaccine across the peoples and I hope that makes it a safer year in 2021. Thanks for all your help this year, particularly with my engine top half rebuild in January. I hope @Arjan is able to get his 90 roof in 2021, one way or another ( but it’s happy where it is). 🎄🎅❄️

This is the suspected cam chain or oil pump chain... link

Its a 58 plate (262K miles). Bought as a budget car 😀. They are identical injectors with the same part number but the reconditioned Bosch ones are provided with the codes, each one has a tag. Bosch refer to them as IMA codes.

Thanks guys. That makes me feel better. These fancy injectors are way outside my knowledge. The job so far has been a pig to do. The cam cover won't come off without the injectors out. There's no wiggle room because of the shape - they can only come up. Two loosened with the engine running and the clamps slackned but two were stuck. I approached ten local-ish garages and one had a slide hammer and was willing to lend it and they popped up with very little effort. The crank pulley bolt needed to be cracked using the starter and a breaker bar. I broke the first bar at the knuckle with muscle power alone. The sump will only come out if the subframe is lowered slightly. Oh for a simpler 300TDi...

Apologies that this isn't LR related but my question is about Bosch common rail diesel injectors, fitted to a Honda 2.2 CDTi engine. I am replacing them as part of a cam chain and oil chain overhaul. The question is about coding. Whilst I have a cheapo code reader, I don't have the HDS software but hope I can get the codes written at a local garage. I believe that the codes are used to compensate for manufacturing tolerances and thus used to inform the ECU of the specific operating characteristics of a particular injector. From that I'm hoping that by not updating the codes until the vehicle can be driven, I am only losing a small amount of performance rather than risking some major malfunction. Can I install the new injectors and then expect the engine to fire and then drive somewhere to get the codes updated? Will this cause any problems or am I correct and they are used for fine tuning and so aren't essential immediately? I trust this forum far more than anywhere else, hence asking here first rather than in a Honda specific place. Thanks