Peaklander

Google shows this place at Cwmbran...https://www.thomasclassicandmodern.com or here in Gloucestershire...https://www.minimail.co.uk/contact-details/ or here, south of Bristol...https://www.southwestminis.co.uk

Before you cross back to England (over Carter Bar maybe), try North Berwick, St Abbs and Coldingham which are all on the coast. Or inland a little there's Melrose and Jedburgh. We discovered these places a few weeks ago after similarly driving to find better weather!

As I commented earlier on my own (300TDi) alternator 'pack' failure, I thought I'd dig-out the pics for completeness. In this case the rectifier and brushes are in one pack which bolts onto the back of the body. The new one needs the brushes to be held inside the holders as you push it over the rotor, hence the use of a paper clip pushed through a tiny hole, provided for that very purpose. Google translate came in handy again at the campsite office as I couldn't see a drawing pin on the desk there, so needed to ask! The pack cost €9 about three years ago. @Anderzanderit's good to hear that you will be sorted soon and can continue the trip.

My alternator went haywire in the middle of Spain. I found a regulator pack easily in the local factors, with the aid of Google translate. All it needed I think it was a 10mm spanner and paper clip job. The symptoms were wildly fluctuating volts all the way up to about 17V I think.

A proper penetrating oil like PlusGas will help first. Loosen a little then tighten back then loosen a bit more etc etc. I think a warm engine helps. Also when refitting, you can use a little ceramic grease.

They really can be unbearable. I have shudders thinking about Kinlochewe years ago. The only way to avoid them is to go uphill or find a breeze - or both!

Won't a standard plastic P-clip do the job?

We have had two trips to Argyll & Bute (October last year and then recently). The coast is beautiful all the way up. By the time you are at southern side of Torridon (where you were at Sheldaig I think?), the mountains are huge lumps and they start at sea level - so vertical gain is large if you are walking up! Best advice is - don't rush. I hope you get the lights sorted.

Done in six minutes or maybe you'd already figured it out 🤣. Can't confirm the torque but google confirms this, from the LandRover Workshop site - which I would trust. https://www.lrworkshop.com/torque-specifications-settings/land-rover-defender-1996 Edit: don't know why the page isn't being previewed in that link

With a press you will need a something that is exactly the OD of the bush so that the outer sleeve is pushed out with the rest of the bush, as one piece. It is quite thin and even hard to see. I haven't access to a press so reverted to a common method to hacksaw from the middle, through the tube, then the rubber and finally the outer sleeve.

Is the Coleman dual fuel stove a pressure stove? I presume it is, running on petrol and ??? Do you advocates use it inside the vehicle or only outside? The only pressure stove I’ve used is the old paraffin ones that use meths to preheat and used to flare-up. How do you do that on the Coleman? Is it a faff first thing when you want a quick cuppa or do you use a jetboil instead?

That’s interesting. Mine is a CFX35W which is a little smaller but I presume the same family and a chest type. Although it will freeze, I have not thought to experiment like that. I’d still want mainly a cold space but maybe a sneaky freezer space would be good. Can you show or describe more about where the coldest space is? Is it all across the bottom?

I have them on my rear axle 110 300TDI together with boost alloys and they fit fine. I only have the flanges though.

I pay too. I wonder if the article you copy/pasted is a free one, or one that I paid to read.

You just pay the subscription...

Hi Ralph, I don't understand that bit. It's a 'long way' from the stem seal seat, up to the top of the valve stem. Some of my seals were happy to migrate up the stem, inside the spring and I doubt they served any purpose up there. Do you mean the 'lash caps'? How would they push the seal back?

That look very Waeco/Dometic-ish. Welcome to ice-cold trips!

It's good to know that you are going to provide an update when you get the job done. It's an interesting thread and to complete the story and diagnosis will be good. I have just found that in a heatwave, camping above a beach is highly recommended. 😀

For some reason I read that sentence very slowly. I didn't intend to but it just happened. As I did, I thought that 1990 was the year you had been born, a few words later I thought a child with a spud gun but then when I got to the blowing things up and getting drunk bit, I realised you must have been a little older!

Any update? @Hawklord

@maverick I hope that they stay on! Mine felt lovely and tight too, going on with a nice click. Why they insisted on popping back off I don't know. As you will have read, the Bondloc did the trick.

It was Bondloc 638 I think. Referenced here as an insert in the original tech archive thread here

That might have been me. I have a thread in the Techical Archive describing how I changed them with the head on. The retention of the stem seals on the stem was the sting in the tail of a very straightforward job as they kept popping off - they were ‘Genuine’ brand. Eventually I used a blob of Bondloc as advised by someone on here.

Jacksons Leisure Supplies offered the best price when I bought our fridge. They have an online shop.

We have that. In fact I’m sitting drinking a beer from it right now, on the Llyn peninsula. its great. In it at the moment is: 2x 4 pints milk 2x 500ml cans beer 2x big yogurt pots bbq meats for four more days sweetcorn, cheese, mayo, courgettes, butter … You get the idea - it’s big and much smaller than some ppl will say is needed. it sits behind the driver’s seat, sideways against the 2nd row door and across almost half of the cubby. Fed from 2nd battery with solar panel etc.