Peaklander

I towed caravans for years, behind cars. I'm pretty sure that the guideline was max towing weight no more than 75% of the towing vehicle's weight. Also it is noseweight / noseweight, noseweight! I submitted a test report to the caravan club for an Avondale caravan that I was towing behind a big Audi. Instead of commenting on the 75% achieved, I was laughed at in their magazine article for having such a 'mismatched' combo.

During my replacement I also removed the steering column. That was because the top of the footwell was thin and I had to repair the panel above it. I didn't realise that I would need to do this until I started the job. I would certainly remove the pedal boxes, they mount on the upper part of the footwell anyway. Perhaps it's just the lower part that you are repairing. I've added pics to show the extent of the well and the size of the job in my case.

The indicator lamp on the dash is the one used for hazard as well as normal. You can’t just swap it for an led. It needs a couple of diodes in the circuit too that isolate one side from the other. These are ‘built in’ to the legs of the rdx one. As I said it’s an way swap but it does cost £25-30 IIRC.

What has been said above, plus have you done anything with the dash indicator warning lamp? If not then it won’t work correctly with led bulbs in the indicators because of the way in which it is wired to be common to both sides. With the filament bulbs this didn’t matter but it does with leds. The easiest way to fix it is to buy the rdx kit which replaces that dash warning lamp with an led one that overcomes the issue. You can find it on eBay.

At launch, some makers’ cars are often only available with black trims and rub strips. This allows the manufacturer time to get the colour match exact as they are often bought-in.

White smoke can be steam or unburnt diesel. If steam, it disappears quickly in the air whereas if it’s diesel the smell lingers.

I give up. Provoking an argument is last thing I want to do.

This is spoiling my trip. I have never ever said that I disagree with your views of the direction JLR have taken. Ever. i have reacted because you @Snagger referred to senior management as imbeciles. I think that collective description is offensive. Yes I do know people there and one or two are very very senior. They are not imbeciles. @Mo Murphy accuses me of throwing a teddy and you are lecturing me about all the reasons why you despise JLR now. So go back and read my posts and you will see. @elbekko is correct that you are spoiling threads such as this with your constant sniping. @Anderzander apologies from me that this went off on a tangent. I am going to go back now and sit next my 110 and enjoy the view of the sea and mountains.

I know how to live in the big world @Mo Murphy I am bored with the constant bleating about JLR. Hell we can’t even have a discussion in this thread about the price of the Grenadier without the same old snipes and gripes about JLR. So sad.

Maybe the moderators could open a ‘slag off Tata/JLR’ thread. Then elsewhere we could have sensible debate all the time and anyone who wants to moan, groan, gripe or slag them off can do so in the corner. They could even have as many likes available as they want. I know several ex colleagues and friends who are working their butts off at JLR to improve manufacturing and quality. They have been successful elsewhere and have a huge task now at JLR. They don’t do design, so can’t be blamed for the product. Even in the most senior positions it isn’t possible to steer the ship or change course on your own.

I like to read your posts as most are very informative. However you are not always correct and tarring all the JLR board with the same brush is insulting.

Yes but that’s only if you want to preserve a low current path isn’t it?

Yes, all those prices are NET and the 20% will be additional at the bottom.

Yes I certainly could do with a trip down to SIV and a chat about old times. Arjan already has a route planned for his 'raid' and I believe that as the roof will be close-ish to the M1, that will fit in. Otherwise, yes I could put it on my roof rack. Edit: he beat me to it!

Thanks Ross. I think Arjan’s pickup all hangs on the easing of COVID19 quarantine and the signs in the UK and France aren’t that promising.

Hi Arjan, got your messages. It looks like we have a plan.

Can he wait till the end of Sept? Then I could pick up, as it's about 1 hour away and hold it at a mate's near here (west of Sheffield not far from M1). I can't go sooner as trying to get away on a trip.

Here's an example. I wanted to control a spotlight relay. The +ve was easily available at the relay in the engine bay as it was next to the dip & high beam ones. I just ran a single switch wire from the switch at the right hand side of the dash, with the ground very close to it. Otherwise I'd need a feed wire too. I suppose it just depends whether or not the +ve is as accessible as a ground would be. I think your ECU point is a good bet.

🤣 I knew as soon as I wrote 'zero resistance' that someone would pick up on it. Switching the ground side does reduce wiring assuming that the ground connection is local to the switch.

The same current flows either way it is fitted (and it's really irrelevant as to which way the electrons move). The volt drop is still across the load, not the switch (which has zero resistance). At the moment before switching, there's a 12 volt drop across the switch whatever way it is connected as no current is yet flowing.

Switching the earth side can make disconnecting a live circuit easier. For example the door pillar switch for the interior lamps is an earth-side switch. If you want to replace or service it, then disconnecting and accidentally touching the wire connecting spade to the metal won't blow a fuse. It just makes the circuit again and the voltage is dropped at the lamps rather than creating a spark of 'uncontrolled' 12v which blows a fuse.

OO that looks interesting. It has a serviceable top. Hope it fits.

There are three rods to unclip. One at the lock, one at the handle inside and one going up to the locking button. If you shine a torch on them you will see how to prise the clips off these rods. The metal carrier does carry everything but that includes the glass. You need to undo the two bolts at the bottom of the glass (one shown in the second pic) and ideally lift the glass up towards the top of the door and hold it there using another par of hands or duct tape over the top, whilst then removing the metal carrier. if the door is off the vehicle then it's easier with the glass v gravity.

They are quite useful nowadays, not just for leaving at home and never answering them (says he thinking about Very elderly parents) 😁

I agree! I also like the auto compress of quoted content. Plus I really like the logo and had forgotten about the competition and winner.