Peaklander

Oh wow. Keep this stuff coming (not the dentist stuff ☺️). It is very interesting / slightly scary / un-surprising.

Well hopefully the instructions won’t go to waste and someone else benefits!

You can post photos directly from an iPhone. I don't know if you can from an Android. On an iPhone, click into Reply to this topic and scroll down the bottom of the text box, click on Add Files. The Photo Library appears or you can access the camera just below it.

It was originally set at 2040 but in Feb this year that was changed to 2035. This week is was (surprisingly) brought forward to 2030. I haven't seen any report that says 2025.

Isn't it 2030?

Ha - only irrelevant as long as they aren’t in a fault condition that might cause problems in that part. 😀

They are drawn like that to keep the circuit they are showing simpler. You only see what’s needed for the area of electrics featured. If you cross reference a connector number eg C0294 by searching the pdf, you can see the other parts.

Can you elaborate please? I'm sure I'd be interested in more detail.

It's funny how this thread has developed 🙃 but just whilst we are talking about access to dentists, let me offer this. In lockdown I suddenly developed a terrible pain (which turned out to be two cracks in a molar). My dentist agreed to see me but the Covid hygiene precautions that she took were so hard to deal with that after the initial examination, I couldn't face a return for the extraction. It is probably because of her ethnic background but the precautions were quite extreme. I had to wear my mask all the time, and whilst my mouth was open it had to be across my nose. Also some sort of cloth was placed across my open mouth, which was moved to cover half of it whilst the instruments were inside. It was very hard to deal with and I'm not a wimp, honest. The dentist wore a single use disposable suit on top of a more robust one and she had a full face mask with filter. All the equipment was hidden under polythene sheeting and these were also hung over stuff on the walls. The reduced capacity at that surgery is immense but I suppose that the poor lady dentist is much more at risk than many of us. As I said, I couldn't face going back for what was looking like an extraction and after a few days, in extreme pain, I managed to go to another practice who were willing to treat me as an NHS emergency. There, with no-one in the same higher-risk category, I had an almost normal experience, with just a few more precautions. It was just as well as my tooth was cracked in two directions and the bacteria were getting to work. So yes, these practices are obliged to treat no-registered patients under the NHS, if it is an emergency. I can't register with them as their waiting list is very long. However, if I go onto Denplan(?) as a private patient, then they will be able to fit me in...

I found that I have only used this app once, for an hour's parking and that was over a year ago. I logged into their website to have a look at what they do, after realising from the comments above, that their primary purpose is to facilitate users finding a space and making a booking in advance - a park on my drive facility. In my case it was for an hour of parking at the side of Mounts Bay near Marazion in Cornwall and it appeared to be a 'normal' car park. Anyway I'm not complaining, just a little surprised that my data was shared in this way. Their Privacy Statement is clear though and of course it wouldn't have made a jot of difference if I had read it before we stopped for that scenic cup of coffee. I can just imagine what would have happened if I'd said "hang-on, before we pay, let me just read these simple terms and conditions and the privacy statement. For the record, this is the relevant part of the privacy terms, with the last part of the paragraph explaining "why they need to check on the MOT": Number plate (VRM) - we store this for enforcement purposes and also safety purposes. We share this with third party enforcement companies and parking space operators along with parking session dates and times, and sometimes your name, subject to terms outlined in separate Data Sharing Agreements held between JustPark and these third party companies outlining each company’s obligations relating to the General Data Protection Regulation 2018. We also use the VRM to check with the DVSA that a vehicle has a valid MOT certificate at the time of a booking as this is a requirement of some of our space owners to ensure that vehicles parked in their spaces are safe and roadworthy.

Sometime over the summer I registered with JustPark at a car park, in order to pay the parking fee. This morning I received this email. The contents are correct, my MOT is due but I wonder why the information was exchanged / why they were required to validate my registration. I might be turning into a grumpy old man. Perhaps this isn't a big deal... Hi Tim, When you added vehicle registration provided to your JustPark account, we were required to validate it with the DVSA. The details they return to us included your MOT date. It’s due in 4 weeks on 15/12/2020, and I thought you might find a friendly reminder helpful. If you haven’t decided where to book yet, you should visit BookMyGarage. Several of our team used them recently and all had 10/10 experiences. They have a comprehensive list of good local garages with great prices and real customer reviews. I’ve checked the Government guidance and MOTs are permitted during the national lockdown. Hope you have a good day, Hannah

I don't think that Ross has suitable workshop facilities or the equipment to do simple cuts of sheet aluminium. Grabs coat ...

Doesn't it depend whether or not you are on your own? If you are with another vehicle or can call them back on the radio, then it can't be quite as important as when you are alone and reliant on someone you don't know and possibly can't converse with, eventually driving pat and offering to help. I have never yet put myself in a situation where I might get bogged down (apart from Peak District snow) but I have been in reasonably isolated places with no back-up (Albanian alps, central northern Greece, Bosnia). It's not Africa or Mongolia but it does make you wonder what you would do if you couldn't extract on your own.

How odd. I bought an 88” chassis directly from them roughly ten years ago and was very happy with it.

Marsland told me that they buy them from GKN and then modify as requested to allow 300 TDi mounts, metal fuel tank or V8 variants. They only ever manufactured the Series chassis and for Series 3 that was eventually using the original jigs when LR offered them. I don’t know why or exactly when they stopped doing that.

That video is beautiful. What a great way to start my day.

Hi Roverdrive, I am a little confused by this thread (I know I helped confuse things by talking about the wrong solenoid). Are you referring to a 300 or 200TDi? You say that the drawing you have doesn't show a starter relay but my 1996 300TDi certainly does have one. The drawing I use is for a 97MY vehicle but even the oldest 300TDi drawing I have for a 1991-94 vehicle shows a starter relay.

The alternator will supply enough current to power the loads even if the battery is discharged and enough to charge the battery too. It takes time to recharge though and it could be a few running hours. With less load (no headlights, wipers, heated screens) then the alternator has more of its output available to push into the battery. The multimeter will give you a much better indication of what's happening but there is no harm in checking the earths anyway. Just don't invest in a new alternator just yet.

Sorry I got the wrong solenoid. I have had my starter relay (300TDi) bypassed for five years and switch the starter solenoid off the ignition switch on a direct cable.

Sorry the thread went weird and I didn’t see the reply. The earth point I’m referring to is a connection to the transfer box case. Undo it, clean all contact surfaces to shiny ( there’s two ring terminations I think, plus the bolt into the case), coat them with a smear of Vaseline and then reconnect. The strap from engine to chassis and the cable from chassis to battery negative is the rest of the circuit.

Oh OK, I missed that! Yes the little solenoid at the FIP will be smaller than the one in the relay, so it's no problem.

The starter relay coil is inhibited from energising, by the 10AS alarm unit behind the instruments. So the alarm must not be set. The switched output from the relay is then routed through the immobiliser which is at the front of the battery box and on to the starter solenoid at cranking (if the coil is allowed to energise). At the same time the immobiliser also sends +12V to the fuel solenoid. You can bypass this relay. The two signals that you need are a +12V at the IGN switch cranking position direct to the starter motor solenoid (spade terminal) and a +12V IGN ON at the injection pump fuel solenoid.

@cackshifter gave a very comprehensive reply which is all valid. The reason that I was specific about that particular transfer box earth point, is that my fuel gauge (1996 300TDi) started to go haywire, especially when I pressed the brake pedal. After cleaning the other earths that I was aware of (chassis strap, bulkhead earth ring stud near the pedal boxes), I found the other one on the transfer box and that was definitely the poor one which fixed the problem.

Check the earth point on the side of the transfer box. It’s on the right side underneath the driver’s side on a rhd vehicle. You can see it from underneath. Also you can’t assess the state of charge without a voltmeter.

Nick, there's a place in Worksop. I'll get the details...and post back on here. I haven't used any of these. the last I used in Rotherham has since closed. This is Worksop https://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/plant-locator/worksop-galvanizing-ltd/ but there's one coming-up in Rotherham - http://ysgl.co.uk/index.html and this in Stoke - http://stokegalvanising.co.uk