Peaklander

This is the comparison between the old and new cam chains. Not only is the chain about a whole link longer (around the loop), it has some very loose pins but not all of them are loose. It's a little strange tbh as I would have assumed they all wear in the same way. This is a 'DID' brand chain which I think is original equipment but the cam guides have certainly been changed since the car was built (2008) as the die stamps are 2013 and 2014. I can only assume that the chain was also changed then but that implies that the chain has stretched in about six years. The much shorter oil pump chain hasn't stretched at all (also 'DID') but I have changed it, along with the guides and the tensioner. I have been busy cleaning the injector bores with carb cleaner and rags wrapped around a suitable tool. They have a hard coating of carbon on much of the lower part. The whole job is suffering from specification creep as I am now looking at the intercooler and probably the turbo. One thing is it makes me yearn for my 300TDi. That is a whole lot easier to access and work on. Removing the sump and timing case on this CR-V requires two engine mounts to be removed, an engine crane, the sub frame to be partially lowered and even then two pairs of eyes and hands.

It’s only been in our family for a few weeks. I said it would be a good bet as I have confidence in Hondas but still a gamble. I have got as far as removing the timing case (so a long way) and can now see the cam chain and associated parts. Some of the (many) fixings to be removed have been very difficult so say the least but they are off! Currently trying to see what's actually wrong. The tensioner appears to jump back to ‘no tension’ as the crank is turned. Don’t know how much to post as this isn’t really the right forum 😁 Edit: here goes... chain noise in running engine and ... chain and tensioner 'in action'

I'm not going to do half a job.

Happy Christmas to all forum members and your nearest and dearest. It’s been a nasty year but we are getting the vaccine across the peoples and I hope that makes it a safer year in 2021. Thanks for all your help this year, particularly with my engine top half rebuild in January. I hope @Arjan is able to get his 90 roof in 2021, one way or another ( but it’s happy where it is). 🎄🎅❄️

This is the suspected cam chain or oil pump chain... link

Its a 58 plate (262K miles). Bought as a budget car 😀. They are identical injectors with the same part number but the reconditioned Bosch ones are provided with the codes, each one has a tag. Bosch refer to them as IMA codes.

Thanks guys. That makes me feel better. These fancy injectors are way outside my knowledge. The job so far has been a pig to do. The cam cover won't come off without the injectors out. There's no wiggle room because of the shape - they can only come up. Two loosened with the engine running and the clamps slackned but two were stuck. I approached ten local-ish garages and one had a slide hammer and was willing to lend it and they popped up with very little effort. The crank pulley bolt needed to be cracked using the starter and a breaker bar. I broke the first bar at the knuckle with muscle power alone. The sump will only come out if the subframe is lowered slightly. Oh for a simpler 300TDi...

Apologies that this isn't LR related but my question is about Bosch common rail diesel injectors, fitted to a Honda 2.2 CDTi engine. I am replacing them as part of a cam chain and oil chain overhaul. The question is about coding. Whilst I have a cheapo code reader, I don't have the HDS software but hope I can get the codes written at a local garage. I believe that the codes are used to compensate for manufacturing tolerances and thus used to inform the ECU of the specific operating characteristics of a particular injector. From that I'm hoping that by not updating the codes until the vehicle can be driven, I am only losing a small amount of performance rather than risking some major malfunction. Can I install the new injectors and then expect the engine to fire and then drive somewhere to get the codes updated? Will this cause any problems or am I correct and they are used for fine tuning and so aren't essential immediately? I trust this forum far more than anywhere else, hence asking here first rather than in a Honda specific place. Thanks

I don't think I have any photos but I made a 'tool'. It was a piece of wire, maybe a coat hanger, bent double to form a loop. I experimented with the size of the loop and then taped-up the handle end, so that there was something to hang onto and protect the palm of my hand. The method is to use the tool to open the groove and push the filler in behind. I would doubt I could have done it on the inside, the working position and access would have made it impossible. Edit: replacing the seals stopped the water leaks that caused waterfalls down the A-pillars

Ha Ha! That's almost the reverse of the butterfly flapping its wings, that then causes a hurricane somewhere.

Quite agree @Daan and I had plenty of summer holidays that maxed-out at finish on a Friday late afternoon but back in after two weeks / three weekends - either for a look around on Sunday evening or definitely at 5:30am on Monday. In that case you do have to "get there and back" and it's a real balance of how far do we try to go and how much time (if any) do we spend on that journey.

First check is the splined thing that the wipers slot onto. It is secured to the spindle with a grub screw. Mine were always working loose until I used a smidge of threadlock. This is on a 300TDi 110. Don't know if this is the same fixing across the range. So with the wipers parked, just grab a wiper arm and see if it moves on the spindle.

I can't offer much about vehicle choice except the experience of travelling all over Europe (and further afield) with kids and then without them. First thing to say is that those years with kids pass so quickly and before you know it they are gone. This happened to us at age about 18. One disappeared around the world as soon as she'd finished A-levels and didn't come on holiday again and I think her sister was about the same age. We spent most of those years towing a caravan all over Europe and there's no doubt that this is very easy although not very flexible. Until you un-couple and then you can go where you want in the vicinity. So whatever you do, don't spend too long doing it. There's only a few trips available with the four of you and then it will probably be two. I don't subscribe to the "get there quickly" view unless your holiday is "there" and not "all the way there and back". We love exploring the back roads and only make a rough plan and then allow ourselves to explore along the rough route. The best bit is being fairly compact and never fearing getting stuck in the small roads at the back of some remote village. It's great to be able to manoeuvre anywhere. If you have a big vehicle you simply can't drive into small places, park in the middle and get out again. If I had the time again with kids I think I would go LWB Sprinter or Iveco and try to all sleep inside, although I'm sure that they would have preferred a tent on the ground whenever the overnight stop allowed.

They seem to do a wide range of torques from 190Nm (£64) to 330Nm (£167) and that doesn't include bigger torques. Trouble is, will I get the use from one to justify it? The years are passing and it must be something to do with reaching sixty last year that although I don't want to, I start to wonder about life, what am I doing, can I do it all etc. etc. The retirement jobs are starting to pile up. The vehicle related ones (not my own) are now Micra front suspension arms, CRV turbo to clean (I assume, as getting over boost code) and on the same vehicle, timing chain (which is slapping now). Oh well one more power tool... knock-off at £30 or perhaps the genuine one at £167. Would that be a good pair from which to choose? Hmmm...

There's a duplicate reference to item 13 and item 14 isn't labelled. The left hand bolt shown as item 13 should be item 14.

I wonder if it would release crusty suspension bolts on an 04 Micra.

I might need to help out a friend and replace the lower arms on an old Micra. I'm wondering if this would work on the bolts rather than trying to get a breaker bar in. @oneandtwowould you still recommend it? £34 on eBay at the moment and I already have 18V batteries for my proper Makita tools. TIA

I think that this is the correct diagram on lrworkshop here: https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/200tdi/coolant-pump_53138

We do have several excellent car factories in the UK, producing vehicles with great build quality and reliability.

I have never seen my low level light come on (300 TDi 110). Does the gauge itself 'do it' or is it an additional cable connection at the sender? I have been a bit lazy and not looked at the wiring diagram or my sender photos but I think it will be gauge derived. Can anyone confirm?

Ah OK, then it fits the bill.😀

Don't miss those discount codes 😀

Great stuff, I look forward to the fettling and swearing (and seeing the tank).

Is that a "mass produced" aux tank or a "special" that you've picked-up?

It doesn't measure DC amps though Ralph. Years ago I bought a secondhand Fluke 70 with the yellow bump case and a nice long pair of rubber leads. It really is worth looking out for one. I needed to buy two fuses for it though. These are used in the current measurement settings and if they have blown then those ranges don't work.