Retroanaconda

My 200Tdi has one fan and it only ever comes on when off-road, higher revs and slow speed. It comes on for a few mins and then it's off for a good 15 or so. A very efficient-running engine like the 200Tdi barely needs cooling at all, I've never seen it come on once while on road, in nearly a year.

Brilliant, thanks.

Just to piggy-back off another topic rather than start a second one, does anyone know the distance between the wheelboxes in the rear loadspace? I assume it's the same on 90s and 110s, or is it different? Thanks

Doesn't like Vista x64. Windows 7 x64 works fine, with the new Virtual Windows XP feature thingy.

Fair play, didn't know that. Maybe something inside the switch part of the light unit then?

There is a difference between taking a vehicle in with known faults with the intend of getting a 'to fix list', and taking one in and hoping it'll pass. My Defender went in for it's MOT with a rusty outrigger, I knew it would fail, but wanted to make sure I could do all the work at once so got it tested to give myself a job list. Nothing wrong with that, if I want to pay £50 for the privilege. If for some reason it had passed with the problem I would have pointed it out, as the prospect of driving an unsafe vehicle around doesn't sit very well with me. As for the magazines, well I confess to buying them now and again...but just to have something LR-related to read. I don't really take any of the articles/advice given seriously.

The only components in the system are the 12V feed, light unit, the selector switch bottom right in the dash, and the door switches. I would be checking the mode selector switch in your case, it may be that it has failed internally.

Champions the lot of them

Well I don't know for sure, but I would think other than your bog-standard 'oh that looks like a larf' joyriding opportunist theif, Land Rovers more than most cars get stolen by people looking specifically for them with the view of breaking them down and selling the parts on. These people might well be equipped better with jammers etc than your average car theif. Not trying to put you off, just voicing my concerns over spending possibly many £100s on a system bypass-able with a £30-40 jammer.

Any GPS will be rendered useless by a GPS signal jammer, no matter where it's mounted. Just stops it locking on to any satellites. As far as I know, there aren't any civillian units which can't be jammed. I stand to be corrected though.

I've not had a 300Tdi, but all I can say is my 200Tdi has been going for 17 years and 144,000 miles and still starts on the button, uses no oil and revs beautifully

Considering how easy it is to jam a GPS signal, I worry about the effectiveness of the units at all. But then I guess it only needs to work once to be worth it.

I'll be there one of the days

Well I have this for when I am going somewhere with someone who wouldn't approve of the Defender, and for other occasions where the need arises: Also very useful as a vehicle to use while the Defender is out of action for any non-disclosed reason A wonderful car, and I love it to bits...but I do generally prefer driving the Defender as it's so much more fun! I don't intend to get rid of it either, I would rather see it sit unroadworth on the driveway for a year while I saved for a new chassis than it go to a scrapyard. It's my Land Rover, and that's a very important bond

Yep, that's on the cards. After a weekend's greenlaning with the power leads lying all over the place, some 12V sockets on the bulkhead area are something I'm definitely looking into. Going to get some from Mudstuff when I get a Mud Console, and I will give them dedicated earths as you say. Much easier for diagnosing faults. The circuits I've already installed beforehand can use the earths they've been given though, easier than running more wires reb78: It's an X-Eng split-charge system. Seems to work fine

I have yes, something to consider for the future possibly...but for now the airline reaches all four tyres and a good distance from the vehicle if needed too

Just to show how I have mounted my T-Max 12V compressor in the cabin. It's the double-pump model, and so far I'm very impressed with it's performance. It sits behind the cubby box on a custom-made wooden mount like so: Here is a close-up of the mount: It is screwed through from inside the cubby box, as well as riveted to the rear bulkhead via a piece of aluminium plate bent to the correct angle. This should stop the thing going flying in the event of something adverse happening. I decided to keep the little power box that comes with the thing. It seems to offer no disadvantage that I can see. It's stuck to the bulkhead with some double-sided foam tape stuff. Power-wise, it's wired directly into my aux. fusebox which runs off the second battery. I hope that is of some use to someone

For reference purposes, here's my Defender (200Tdi) auxillary fusebox install. We begin in the battery box: The supply wires to the fusebox are 16mm², rated for 100 amps. As such, there is an in-line 100 amp fuse mounted to the side of the battery box. This keeps the supply safe as it is fused right next to the battery and before any routing through panels. The two large gauge wires described above exit the back face of the battery box through a grommet, and then head upwards through the seatbox top through a second grommet-filled hole: This takes us to the main bulk of the system. Mounted on the bulkhead behind the passenger seat we have: The fuxebox itself is a reasonably expensive unit (£30 odd from VWP), but it features up to 12 fused circuits in two seperate banks of 6. I'm only using the bottom bank in mine for now. Each circuit is rated for 30 amps and each bank for 100 amps (hence the supply cable/fuse ratings). It also provides 12 common earths as well, although I imagine these are of less use for most remotely positioned accessories. As it stands I only have three circuits wired in, the 12V compressor, the central locking system, and the engine cooling fan circuit: So that's my system. I need to remember to sleeve the supply wires in some of that convoluted tubing you see in the fourth picture as well, must get around to that soon.

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p6175/VD...oduct_info.html Edit: Corrected the link

Probably a dodgy diode pack which is leaking current the wrong way. Your option is either: 1. New diode pack for £10 (ish?), disassemble alternator and solder it in 2. New alternator from the scrappy (mine cost £23.50) Personally I think 2 is the better option, but it's up to you. You could always do 2 and then 1 and then you have a spare

All I can say is that it sounds like a problem with the Installshield engine. Try the latest version from the Installshield website: http://www.acresso.com/downloads/downloads_5842.htm

We're not all thuggish yobs, however there are far too many idiots around in vehicles like that. Young and old, here and abroad. As a 20-year old who drives a Defender and a Ford Focus, I can say that I most certainly adjust my driving style from the very well-handling and pseudo-sporty Focus to the 1.7 ton Defender on mud tyres

I got a metro alternator from the scrapyard that had the same fitment, gives me 70 amps Take your old one to your local scrappy and see if they can match it up to anything. Should be able to save yourself some money over a new/recon unit if you want to, mine was £23.50 and came with a 12 week warranty too.

Not the aircon ones, they stick out too far

The prospect of removing the downpipe in order to fit a new clamp isn't one I wish to entertain lightly...although it may be possible to just move it down a bit if there's enough flex in the lower part of the system. There are a couple of holes/cracked flange welds in the exhaust system anyway