Retroanaconda

Yes, I'm 20 and I can't stand the SVX. Awful looking thing.

You would never get the money back you've put in. The galv. chassis which probably cost you £1k plus will likely have added nothing to the value from a dealer's point of view. I'd keep the 300Tdi, you can still do the miles...just at 60-65 not 75-80

I love it! Brilliant video

I fitted a set of Mintex shoes to my 90's rear axle last week without issue. They fit fine, drums are standard though.

Could contaminate the brake shoes/drum if you have an older vehicle. Still something I would want to fix even if not, the new seal is RTC3511. I've just done mine, easy job...just a bit messy

Pack the ruts with big stones/logs in order to create a false road where necessary?

25 psi to 55 psi Edit: That is assuming Ralph meant kgf/cm2, otherwise he meant some unit I've not got in my converter app here.

I did it on the M25 in static traffic to see if I could see what was going on up ahead. Didn't seem to to any damage. I climbed up the spare wheel though, I wouldn't want to climb over the windscreen, and I stayed on the flat part...rear of the front slope.

I would be trying to earn my no-claims personally. It's the fastest way to get things to come down in price.

Land Rover originally specified ATF Dextron III, but a lot of people use MTF94 now as it's more advanced. Or so they say. I shudder to think what EP90 would do to the insides

*shrugs* No different to having 'Land Rover' on the back of the truck in my view, just a brand name. That said, go with whatever guard takes your fancy most, your truck after all!

I have the Rebel 4x4 one on my Defender, seems well built enough. I have used it to jack up the front on one occasion, and the recovery points are handy (used with a bridle). No idea how strong they are, but the guard is held on pretty well.

To swap that over you're gonna have to pretty much strip the whole vehicle surely? Might as well put a new chassis under there really. Yes it's £1k, but if you want to keep the vehicle you can not worry about it for 10-15 years or so.

Paddocks specify these parts for "Front Axle, Discs on Rear - From LA930456". http://www.paddockspares.com/sp/category/D...cs_on_rear.html

My 200Tdi has had a bolt missing from the water pump housing for some time now, and that doesn't seem to leak. Bloody thing appears to be snapped off inside

Right near my old school, good stuff. Maybe I'll see you around one day

Ashcrofts offer the R380 as a replacement for the LT77, so they may know?

I know it's not covered, I was just making the point that cars last a lot longer than a lot of people think. People change their vehicles far too often, something like a Land Rover that lasts 20 years plus has got to be better for the environment than the building, running, and disposal of several more 'clean' vehicles.

Cars do last ten years quite easily. My Focus was built in 2000 and is still going strong, it should have many more years left in it. And we all know how long Land Rovers can last given a good owner.

How did you find out the dates for the games? Just by contacting the guy listed on the contacts page? Wherabouts in East Grinstead are you? I'm in Crawley Down, very local

There are a few videos on YouTube under 'grinstead 4x4', and a Google Maps entry for it, but I can't find anything more than that.

Considering most Land Rover locks can be opened with anything remotely key-shaped anyway, there's not much you can do to stop them getting in. Best thing I find is to remove the temptation, by removing valuables from sight as you say.

Holy cow, I never knew Turner Engineering was so close....literally 2 or 3 miles from my home. Well I know where I'm going next time I need engine bits

If I could do it without going out of my way, I'd put the inlet somewhere the air will be cooler. But I wouldn't make an effort to do so, not like it will make much difference anyway. About as much difference as my ram-top Safari snorkel does

Keep at it mate, drive safely and it will get better In my line of 'normal cars', I had a Corsa ( ) for which I paid something over a grand for my first year's insurance. Then my second year on that came to around £800-900. Then I bought my current car, 2000 1.6 Focus, which I paid £600 on last year and just renewed at the beginning of this month for a smidgin over £400, with my now three years NCB My Defender is around £500, with no NCB (used on the Focus). I'm 20 now, for reference. That's all fully comp, on 10,000 miles a year, living in RH10 postcode. So as I say, it will improve as time goes on. Just drive safely, if you do have an accident which is shown to be your fault, your premiums will go through the roof. Same goes for motoring convictions such as speeding etc (plus there's the risk in the first two years of losing your license).