Retroanaconda

It's a bit of a pain, but doable yes. Easier if you can get into the wing holes (heater intake and engine air intake if present), as the bolts can be accessed through there. 14mm heads down the back where it goes through to the bulkhead pillar, and 12mm heads across the top and down the front. Just did mine yesterday, needed some 're-shaping' with a hammer after a slight roll.

Isn't there a little foam-type seal inside behind the flange to stop oil migrating up the splines? Maybe it's failed or missing?

Hello all, I need some pictures of the following to help me in sourcing the bits for attatching my tailgate. For now I'm going for the standard drop-down layout. I have the part numbers for the following bits, just would like some pictures of the setup. Bits I would like images of are: 1. The layout of the bolt-on brackets that go onto the rear crossmember 2. Arrangement of the cable brackets which attach to the wheelboxes 3. The positioning of the antiluce fixings which hold the gate up If anyone has any detailed images of the above areas I'd be very grateful. Many thanks

You can pay on the door? Are you sure of that, as there's no mention on the website? I've just got my insurance sorted and the Defender fixed properly so would loe to come, I doubt there's time to post off an application now though, what with the post as it is.

I don't mean to be rude Fridge, but that was exactly my point. It isn't going to cut you in half, but with a lump of metal on the end it could easily kill you.

Find a local fixings/fastners supplier and get them in bulk from them. That way you're not limited on sizes of orders, and they tend to be cheap. My local one I can go and buy one M6 x 25mm bolt for 11p if I like

You may be more qualified to judge on this then, but all I am going by is on the Discovery show Mythbusters where they tested this. They had some steel wire and a dead pig and all it did when breaking back under tension was cause bad bruising/impact marks. I'm not suggesting it would be a pleasant experience with a winch wire, merely pointing out that the safety warnings are grossly over-exaggerated. I will though mirror my earlier point of a lump of metal on the end of said wire when snapping back is another matter altogether!

If you have fuel at the injection pump, that means that the lift pump and all associated pipework is working ok, so the issue has to be with the injection pump. Take the stop solenoid out of the injection pump altogether and ensure that it isn't gummed up with swarf or anything. This can happen if an injection pump is nearing the end of it's life. Then I would be inclined to take the front cover off and check the timing, ensure that it's all lined up properly and the three bolts that hold the injection pump spindle are tight.

Well I may come down and have a go, worst case scenario I will end up not doing very well but still enjoying the playday. Will be my first Shires event

Wow, didn't know this place was used for this sort of thing as well. I play airsoft there quite a bit. Awesome site

Hmm, is this only for the more able vehicles (winches, cages, 35" Simex etc), or is it for all? The punch thing of course I'm referring to, I know the playday is accessible for all

Have you ever seen the engine running? And have you fiddled with the injection pump timing at all?

The idea of a strap or rope 'cutting down' anything in the way, even a human body, is just rubbish though. Even a steel wire snapping under breaking tension won't cut someone in half. Granted it would be painful, but no-one is going to be killed by it. A shackle, bit of recovery point, or a big log on the end of it could be fatal though, that's what one needs to be careful of.

You mean touching the the drum, and yes it is possible. The shoe position is adjusted behind the drum similar to a normal wheel brake, and the handle throw is adjusted by the fixings on the end of the cable. Shoes should be just shy of touching the drum, and the handle should begin to engage at the first click

The handbrake drum being warm after a trip is normal, it being too hot to touch...I'd be worried of excess friction at hand. Have a feel underneath after a drive

A Dremel is a rotary tool, they do cutting discs for it and due to it's small size it can fit where an angle grinder can't. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dremel

Looks like some sort of anti-vandal bolt? If you can't undo it, then out with the grinder I'd say. May be difficult getting it in there, got a Dremel?

Really? If the nut tightens down when turned one way it should un-tighten when turned the other? Unless it's been changed for a non-standard fitting?

I think he means the top steering U/J on the column, in the engine bay. When I changed mine I undid the two clamp bolts and beat the joint off with a bit of wood and a hammer. Refitting is the reverse of removal...as they say.

Well I didn't fit it, so god knows what other 'issues' there may have been in that process

I have a horrible feeling the rear crossmember on my 90 is a Britpart special....the jacking points don't fit my Hi-Lift, and the NATO hitch bolt holes don't have crush tubes Buy right, buy once

Vehicle Excise Duty. Commonly known as...car tax

The spade goes onto the heated window (there's a male spade on the glass). The ring connector is an earth for the motor/screen. I just bolted it to the door frame. The white round one is the connector for the rear wiper motor. <sneaky bit> I have a wiper motor for sale in the For Sale forums </sneaky bit>

Time period (in seconds) = 1 / frequency (in hertz)

This diagram shows the pinout for the ROW-spec dash loom: You should be able to follow the wiring for the temp sender through this. It comes into the loom on pin 8 of the main multi-plug, and then in a green/blue wire goes into the speedo bottom plug on pin 5. Then comes out of pin 9 on that plug (now in light-green/blue) and into the actual temperature gauge. The speedo head does something clever to the signal, to make it read properly